Sled seems to be down on rpms
- Thread starter ullose272
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sledneck_03
Well-known member
My 2008 700 did this, my 2014 pro rmk did this.
Replaced fuel filters, springs, got clutches serviced, new belts, different belts.... just never pulled rpm like new. Had a slp torque arm on too.
Pissed me off so much with my 700 but came to the conclusion it needed a new top end.
My 800 only had like 800 miles when it started doing it...kept taking grams and grams out of my adjustable mds weights to get any rpm in the hills. Completely ruined a week trip. Wanted to burn it to the ground, not sure ill get a polaris ever again.
Replaced fuel filters, springs, got clutches serviced, new belts, different belts.... just never pulled rpm like new. Had a slp torque arm on too.
Pissed me off so much with my 700 but came to the conclusion it needed a new top end.
My 800 only had like 800 miles when it started doing it...kept taking grams and grams out of my adjustable mds weights to get any rpm in the hills. Completely ruined a week trip. Wanted to burn it to the ground, not sure ill get a polaris ever again.
I did clutch springs in my 16 at right around 900 miles as I was seeing the same thing, went from pulling like 8250 to barely cresting 8000. That helped a bunch, got me back to around 8200 but I bet some fresh motor mount rubbers could help that a bit as well. I just picked up a fresh 17 and amazing how much better they run when everything is super tight. Kinda lame that you have to do this stuff, but if you know every 1k you swap this stuff to have a fresh ripping sled, its not so bad.
I had the same issue yesterday, still do.
2 days ago, sled was pulling 8300+rpm at 8000ft elevation
yesterday, when it got bad, sled only pulled 7500 rpm. This was on a long pull, fairly steep, 18” fresh on top of a set up layer, 9500-9800ft elevation.
when I got to the top, I tightened the deflection of the belt. after that, I had an immediate 500 rpm increase. it was pulling 8000.
sled: ’17 sks, 155, 2.6” track. slp pipe and silencer, stock clutching except heavier 10-66 weights. 330 miles on sled
what do you guys think may be the cause of the big drop?
I think the big culprit is the primary weights being too heavy for the elevation
my buddy has the exact same sled, same exhaust, except his clutching is stock. he was on the same climb and didn’t notice any change in performance
help, thanks
2 days ago, sled was pulling 8300+rpm at 8000ft elevation
yesterday, when it got bad, sled only pulled 7500 rpm. This was on a long pull, fairly steep, 18” fresh on top of a set up layer, 9500-9800ft elevation.
when I got to the top, I tightened the deflection of the belt. after that, I had an immediate 500 rpm increase. it was pulling 8000.
sled: ’17 sks, 155, 2.6” track. slp pipe and silencer, stock clutching except heavier 10-66 weights. 330 miles on sled
what do you guys think may be the cause of the big drop?
I think the big culprit is the primary weights being too heavy for the elevation
my buddy has the exact same sled, same exhaust, except his clutching is stock. he was on the same climb and didn’t notice any change in performance
help, thanks
I had the same issue yesterday, still do.
2 days ago, sled was pulling 8300+rpm at 8000ft elevation
yesterday, when it got bad, sled only pulled 7500 rpm. This was on a long pull, fairly steep, 18” fresh on top of a set up layer, 9500-9800ft elevation.
when I got to the top, I tightened the deflection of the belt. after that, I had an immediate 500 rpm increase. it was pulling 8000.
sled: ’17 sks, 155, 2.6” track. slp pipe and silencer, stock clutching except heavier 10-66 weights. 330 miles on sled
what do you guys think may be the cause of the big drop?
I think the big culprit is the primary weights being too heavy for the elevation
my buddy has the exact same sled, same exhaust, except his clutching is stock. he was on the same climb and didn’t notice any change in performance
help, thanks
how many miles on the sled? same for the springs and belt?
330, 300 on belt. first belt was broken in for 30 miles, it is now the spare. this belt was broken for 30 miles and then ridden like normal
At a min- clean your valves.. I have 1400 miles on mine and @500 miles they were sticky/gummed - and just did it again last week..running the VES gold.
Even if you springs look fine- change them- for less than $80.00 it will give you the peice of mind- and look closley at the pipe seals - the aftermarket cans seem to chewing on that one connection.
Compression here @ 7400' at my shop is 105 both PTO and MAG / cold motor WOT- on 3 different sleds- so don't let that bother you-seems to be the norm at elevation.
Even if you springs look fine- change them- for less than $80.00 it will give you the peice of mind- and look closley at the pipe seals - the aftermarket cans seem to chewing on that one connection.
Compression here @ 7400' at my shop is 105 both PTO and MAG / cold motor WOT- on 3 different sleds- so don't let that bother you-seems to be the norm at elevation.
G
ggcustoms
Well-known member
TTT
Just got back from Cooke and I was down on Rs as well. Never saw this thread or I would've tried a spring swap to see if that helped at all. 17' 3" Assault. 250 mi, SLP pipe, torque arm, stock clutching, original belt, Eth mode, 64s. 8000 RPM max on pulls. It was warmer some days and the snow was hard but my brothers '16 with Pipe/torque arm he said was still pulling 8200+. I will see if a valve and clutch cleanse along with some pipe sealant will help. Not heading out until next year so I might not be able to verify any fixes until then. I have a 20T top gear I might throw in as well.
Also, I have an audible drivetrain whine. Is that normal with the chaincase models or is there an alignment issue somewhere?
Just got back from Cooke and I was down on Rs as well. Never saw this thread or I would've tried a spring swap to see if that helped at all. 17' 3" Assault. 250 mi, SLP pipe, torque arm, stock clutching, original belt, Eth mode, 64s. 8000 RPM max on pulls. It was warmer some days and the snow was hard but my brothers '16 with Pipe/torque arm he said was still pulling 8200+. I will see if a valve and clutch cleanse along with some pipe sealant will help. Not heading out until next year so I might not be able to verify any fixes until then. I have a 20T top gear I might throw in as well.
Also, I have an audible drivetrain whine. Is that normal with the chaincase models or is there an alignment issue somewhere?
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Ill freshen stuff up over the summer, but honestly i raced a couple other new 17s with pipes and clutching ect that was spot on and i beat both of them, on pulls and races across a lake so i stopped really caring for the season.(which barring a freak snow storm is over)
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