Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

skinz headlight delete

You do realize that a voltage regulator is intended for the job of regulating voltage though, right? (the name kinda implies it's use:face-icon-small-hap)
Voltage regulators also have a rating as to how much power can pass through them before the magic smoke is produced.

Voltage regulators generally just short the high side to ground to remove the excess voltage. This happens quickly and uses reactors / caps to keep the voltage smooth.. There are thermal limits to all of these things.

Note that I do not know where these limits are...
 
On Carbed sleds, the stator puts out more energy than the voltage regulator can handle without any type of load on the system ie headlight/taillight. But I think the CFI sleds have enough load on the stator with the electronic fuel pump that running without the headlight doesn't really hurt the voltage regulator. I know for a fact, if you run without a headlight or load on the stator on a carbed sled, you will burn out the volt regulator(too much electric current tries to run through the regulator and creates a bunch of heat and burns out the regulator). I burned out my voltage regulator on my 08 IQR when I tried to install HIDs. One trick they used to do on the mod sleds was put an extra set of handwarmers on the pyramid to load the stator with out a headlight.
 
I have 3000 miles on my pro, with the Mtn Fit Delete, but I do have a turbo, so I've added draw from the oil pump and EGT's
 
On Carbed sleds, the stator puts out more energy than the voltage regulator can handle without any type of load on the system ie headlight/taillight. But I think the CFI sleds have enough load on the stator with the electronic fuel pump that running without the headlight doesn't really hurt the voltage regulator. I know for a fact, if you run without a headlight or load on the stator on a carbed sled, you will burn out the volt regulator(too much electric current tries to run through the regulator and creates a bunch of heat and burns out the regulator). I burned out my voltage regulator on my 08 IQR when I tried to install HIDs. One trick they used to do on the mod sleds was put an extra set of handwarmers on the pyramid to load the stator with out a headlight.

This is a 100% wrong in my findings, we run full mod Rugland 800 ves motors in watercross with no lights (no headlight or taillight) and no hand or thumb warmers in the summer and do not have any issues, the only draw we have is digitrons. No problems.
 
Does anyone running a headlight delete want to get rid of there headlight assembly for cheap? If so, please pm me.

Thanks
 
Does anyone know if it would work to use LED's behind skinz headlight delete kit??

I guess that it would save some weight without loosing the light, if it works.
 
Does anyone know if it would work to use LED's behind skinz headlight delete kit??

I guess that it would save some weight without loosing the light, if it works.
It will work, might have to cut some more holes in the delete itself to get some light through though. And you have to wire them to a different power source than the stock lights. Stock lights are ac.
 
So, sounds like it's safe to assume at this point, since not a single person posted to the contrary, that folks are blowing smoke about needing a resistor?


Or does anyone actually have REAL reason that one is needed?


btw, just for reference, "cause I said so on snowest" doesn't count as a real reason":face-icon-small-sho:face-icon-small-win
 
I don't think your going to find anyone with the "REAL REASON" your looking for to say a resistor is needed. Without the headlights there isn't the draw on the electrical system that it was designed to run at. Will it cause the regulator to prematurely fail? Who knows, but there's also no real reason to change the chain case oil other than a recommended service. We all know the oil gets contaminated and causes premature wear if not changed, but that's just because someone at Polaris said so. (I call bs if someone claims they've done multiple destructive tests to prove its effectiveness).

A resister isn't difficult to install, and is most likely a lot cheaper than A voltage regulator. The sled will run fine without, but in my mind that's cheap, easy insurance.
 
The sled will run fine without, but in my mind that's cheap, easy insurance.

but people say that about EVERYTHING in the sled world, especially about stuff they don't have any solid info on. I know guys with STOCK pros, at our elevation that add AVgas because someone told them to... F*in retarded.

I see this in a ton of different things, and usually it comes from people who don't know one way or the other, but want to sound official by saying you better do X... or something is gonna blow up.

Changing oil is basic maintenance, we're talking about adding more parts because a sled in 2010+ can't handle having a light bulb being burnt out.
 
Changing oil is basic maintenance

As is changing a burnt out light bulb...just my take on it is all. I don have any more reason than anyone else does to do it or not.

Haha and I completely agree with the rediculousness of people just believing everything. Especially when it comes to octane. People don't understand so they take someone's word for it instead of dig deeper.
 
So heres my thinking, if you're worried about it burning out your VR or ECU, but still want to pull out your headlight, buy a heated goggle bag, put a set of EGT's or an O2 sensor and guage in, double up your hand warmers, put a 12V fan behind the headlight delete to blow all that new glorious cold air over your motor, etc, etc.......OR, pull the headlight and go ride, taking the small, inconclusive risk, that voltage may cause an issue.

I mean, you could just go get the resistor, but obviously, we are trying to make this way more complicated than needed, so that would be cheating.........
 
I mean, you could just go get the resistor, but obviously, we are trying to make this way more complicated than needed, so that would be cheating.........

Well... to be specific, the ones saying you need a resistor are the ones making it more complicated, but that's a whole other story right?

I've run sleds for the last 6 years without lights & without any kind of resistor. Beating a dead horse here, but I get really sick of this kind of stuff, when the ones saying "it's cheap insurance" about this, octane, and 20 other things, are often wrong, and it's often not cheap, nor do I wan to add more crap to my sled unless I actually need it. I'm simply looking for some actual info, not an argument, or to make it more complex than needed.
 
Well... to be specific, the ones saying you need a resistor are the ones making it more complicated, but that's a whole other story right?

I've run sleds for the last 6 years without lights & without any kind of resistor. Beating a dead horse here, but I get really sick of this kind of stuff, when the ones saying "it's cheap insurance" about this, octane, and 20 other things, are often wrong, and it's often not cheap, nor do I wan to add more crap to my sled unless I actually need it. I'm simply looking for some actual info, not an argument, or to make it more complex than needed.
And there is no "actual info" to back up that it's needed or not. If it causes premature failures it would be impossible to pin point it to that.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top