Don't know if it is the set up or just the way the sled is. My '13 pro rmk wants to turn and go straight up when sidehilling. I ride with a couple '10 m-8s and I can hold a sidehill better with them. Is there something in the setup that would help?
Sidehilling
- Thread starter mormud
- Start date
Changing the ski rubbers helped my sled from doing this. When the ski would tip straight up, it would wash the a$$ end out.
Jaynelson is on the money. If the front track shock is to tight, the sled will have alot of transfer and pull straight up the hill. ski's will come off the ground even.
My foot was all the way forward. I think my shocks are set tight, I thought that gave it less transfer. Will check where they are tomorrow. The ski rubbers still seem to be tight. How do you know if they are bad?
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I think the technique is different from an M-Cat to the Pro. I can sidehill much more slowly with the Pro, it doesn't need to be pinned in most situations. I find that burping it along allows me to sidehill about anything with less effort and speed required. Backing out of the throttle some allows the track to ride back up on the snow essentially turning the nose down the fall line, back into the gas and ride the balance. Definately check the front track shock, dial it loose until 3/4-1" of threads show.
Wrong foot forward....
J
Jaynelson
Well-known member
Set the rear track shock for your weight. It lists the spring lengths by rider weight in the owners manual. Tighten it if it bottoms out easily. If it bottoms the odd time on an extra big whup or something...it's probably perfect.
Set the front track shock to have about 3/4" to 1" of threads showing. Tighten it up a bit if the sled doesn't feel "tippy" enough. Loosen it a bit if you find it trenches excessively or wants to go uphill on a sidehill. Should able to find a balance somewhere in that range.
Set the front ski shocks somewhere in the middle and just go from there. They don't matter as much.
Don't waste time or money on other stuff until you figure out the suspension.
I haven't checked the shocks yet but i think i have them tighter than stock set up. The sled doesn't feel very tippy right now. The M's do seem easier to tip to me.
R
rilesman5
Well-known member
I found that foot position made all the difference for me, as well as a slight adjustment to the rear shock. I currently ride a m1000 153" that side hills like a beast. However I will be retiring the beast for a new 2015 pro. With that being said I have started to take out my wife's 600 pro. I struggle in the beginning of the day, always, until I find out the position my feet need to be in. I find I am always to far back on the boards causing the sled to wash out. On the 1000 I can slide my feet back, let the machine wash slightly and then push off the hill with my foot. With the pro, if she washes, then it points me uphill,,,,,stuck. I found that I have to go slower, more brake, and move all the way to the front. When doing this the sled should almost stay in this position with little effort. I did notice that the pro rear suspension, reacts more with a little adjustment than my 1000. It definitely reacts more with the littlest adjustments when compared to the 1000. Oh and one more thing....definitely pay attention to the uphill ski.....if she starts folding up and hitting the bumper while sidehilling, then check the ski rubbers.
N
Newby2sleds
Member
Mormud.... I came off a 163 and now on a 155. My 163 held a better line in a sidehill then my 155 does. Even with the suspension adjusted properly my tail still washes out a bit on a steep sidehill. With my wrong foot forward I just drag my brake a little and the sled straightens back on track. This helps to not gut stuck in bad places cause you don't have to lift out of the gas. Works great for me and I use my brake a lot when I'm riding.
Foot position is a person preference and I usually ride with my foot a little out of the pocket and sometime even further back.
Foot position is a person preference and I usually ride with my foot a little out of the pocket and sometime even further back.
my shocks were pretty tight. the front rear had 1 1/4" of thread showing and the rear was at 9 3/4" spring length. put the front at 3/4" and rear at 10 1/4", but haven't had a chance to ride it yet. i haven't learned to ride the brake, it is real snappy and probably spins track too quickly. thanks for all the info
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I am always in and out of the throttle. Thw QD system does respond better and I like the Polaris clutching much better than Cats. I always have the power I need even running slow. Spinning the track is often exactly what you need to do.
Ski rubbers GUARANTEED!! My 13 was doing the same thing and anytime I threw a hard carve it would want to throw me over the bars. Shim your ski rubbers with strips of aluminum in the ski pocket about 1/8" or so and it will help HUGE!! My 08 Dragon skis are WAY tighter in the pocket than my 13 with new rubbers!!
You sound like you are on the right track.
What is your height and weight? That helps factor in spring tensions too.
So to make your sled more "flick able" you need to tighten the front and relax the back. To make it side hill do just the opposite. Now to find the perfect balance!
