Bought my 13 162 pro new for 10,080.00 with 1 yr polaris warranty a month ago. I would call Action motorsports in Idaho Falls and ask for Kurt. You will be glad you did.
Should I go new or used?
- Thread starter bobback
- Start date
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Drewd
Well-known member
I had the same decision to make 3 weeks ago. I found it next to impossible to find a good deal on a '13-new or used. Most of the 12s or 13's had 2000+ miles and were ridden hard as is expected here in Colorado.
I bit the bullet and decided that a new '14 was the way to go. Here are my reasons:
(a) I'm tired of buying used for most stuff in my life. I purchased 2 used ATVs last year, a used Jeep the year before, a used camper last summer, a used Triton trailer 2 years ago, and a used wife 12 years ago-low mileage low maintenance model.
(b) A local dealer wanted $11,000 for a snowcheck 2013 with 4 year warranty. He wouldn't budge on price and I've since learned that Polaris warranties are fairly worthless anyway. I'll be doing my own engine work and figure the electronics should last almost forever if they don't break in the first year or two.
(c) With a new sled, I can ensure it is broken in correctly. I'll be breaking in my engine fast and hard with varied throttle, engine load and full range of rpm range. I already dumped the VES and put mineral oil in the tank and am using 32 oz of mineral oil blended with 25% castor oil (degummed) into fuel tank. Don't preach about castor in the fuel tank it is a personal decision I made to get a little castor coating on the pistons skirts and other engine internals....nothing has better film strength and a short rod motor that needs rebuilding after 1500-2000 miles of hard riding could stand to use a little castor in the premix only. I used it in my previous sleds without any issues and I clean power'exhaust valves every year anyway. I made decision to put engine break in over q-drive belt. I already have a replacement q-drive belt that I will break in properly after I break the engine in. I value the engine higher than the $200 belt. With a used sled, I have no way of knowing how the engine was broken in. I use this method http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm in past when I had motorcycles that I purchased new and several diesel vehicles that still have new compression after 200,000 miles (550 psi in each cylinder and going strong).
(d) A virgin sled is a great canvas to customize it. I don't have to take anything off that a previous owner installed that I don't like.
(e) Price: I paid 11,300 and have 2 year warranty I'm happy with the price considering the next lowest priced dealership in my area wanted 11,900 plus several hundred dollars to clutch the sled for 9000-12000 feet.
(f) I love having 0 miles on the odometer and not a single scratch or defect. No one else's fingerprints are on it-other than tech who clutched it and did the PDI.
(g) '14 models seem to have more glue on glued joints and that was important to me.
(h) I don't care about depreciation since I plan on keeping this sled until I die, wreck it, or get divorced-whichever comes first.
Please let us know what you decide to do.
I bit the bullet and decided that a new '14 was the way to go. Here are my reasons:
(a) I'm tired of buying used for most stuff in my life. I purchased 2 used ATVs last year, a used Jeep the year before, a used camper last summer, a used Triton trailer 2 years ago, and a used wife 12 years ago-low mileage low maintenance model.
(b) A local dealer wanted $11,000 for a snowcheck 2013 with 4 year warranty. He wouldn't budge on price and I've since learned that Polaris warranties are fairly worthless anyway. I'll be doing my own engine work and figure the electronics should last almost forever if they don't break in the first year or two.
(c) With a new sled, I can ensure it is broken in correctly. I'll be breaking in my engine fast and hard with varied throttle, engine load and full range of rpm range. I already dumped the VES and put mineral oil in the tank and am using 32 oz of mineral oil blended with 25% castor oil (degummed) into fuel tank. Don't preach about castor in the fuel tank it is a personal decision I made to get a little castor coating on the pistons skirts and other engine internals....nothing has better film strength and a short rod motor that needs rebuilding after 1500-2000 miles of hard riding could stand to use a little castor in the premix only. I used it in my previous sleds without any issues and I clean power'exhaust valves every year anyway. I made decision to put engine break in over q-drive belt. I already have a replacement q-drive belt that I will break in properly after I break the engine in. I value the engine higher than the $200 belt. With a used sled, I have no way of knowing how the engine was broken in. I use this method http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm in past when I had motorcycles that I purchased new and several diesel vehicles that still have new compression after 200,000 miles (550 psi in each cylinder and going strong).
(d) A virgin sled is a great canvas to customize it. I don't have to take anything off that a previous owner installed that I don't like.
(e) Price: I paid 11,300 and have 2 year warranty I'm happy with the price considering the next lowest priced dealership in my area wanted 11,900 plus several hundred dollars to clutch the sled for 9000-12000 feet.
(f) I love having 0 miles on the odometer and not a single scratch or defect. No one else's fingerprints are on it-other than tech who clutched it and did the PDI.
(g) '14 models seem to have more glue on glued joints and that was important to me.
(h) I don't care about depreciation since I plan on keeping this sled until I die, wreck it, or get divorced-whichever comes first.
Please let us know what you decide to do.
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