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Short Cuts and Tricks.. Pro Chassis

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I didn't like that the track tensioner bolts have flanged heads (at least on the 12s.) I got two full threaded bolts from work (off of a John Deere combine- just happened to be the exact same length too) that do not have flange heads. The heads of the bolts were still a 16mm so I lightly took them to the grinder to make the heads 15mm. Now I can easily get the closed end of a wrench on the jam nut by slipping it over the head of the bolt through the window in the rail.
 
I just did this tonight, I had a longer piece of 1/4 rubber hose laying around so here is how I routed mine to the bottom of the chaincase.
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i went to Canadian Tire to look for a hose to do that all i found was 1/4" heater hose and clear 1/4" hose,not sure it be good with all the heat from the engine...Will a heater hose work or do i have to use a fuel line?
 
my best mod last year was two goggle/glove bags. Installed a BMP can which left room for one WPS bag to zip tie above the can area, and another one on the RH side panel, to the rear of the can when closed. Neither location dryes a pair of gloves if very wet, so gotta rotate them often before they get soaked.
 
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Here are some more pics of the VES drain line 'moveage'. I did this last night. Right now it is set up to drain into the chaincase hole but i might drill a hole, throw a grommet in and zip tie it so it is going directly out of the bottom.

Justin
 
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Here are some more pics of the VES drain line 'moveage'. I did this last night. Right now it is set up to drain into the chaincase hole but i might drill a hole, throw a grommet in and zip tie it so it is going directly out of the bottom.

Justin

You don't have to drill a hole. I did what you did and I put a 90 degree plastic elbow on the end and it fit through the hole for the chain case drain so nothing will pool inside the sled... no hole drilled.
 
To prevent the track edges from fraying.... Grind or file the back edge of your drop brackets right where the track comes around and goes up into the tunnel.

These edges are real sharp and when the track shifts from side to side this is where it will rub.
 
To prevent the track edges from fraying.... Grind or file the back edge of your drop brackets right where the track comes around and goes up into the tunnel.

These edges are real sharp and when the track shifts from side to side this is where it will rub.

Yup, do this to all my sleds using a dremmel tool with grinding stone attachment.

Have FUN!

G MAN
 
Stupid question, but what is the best place to get heat tape? are there different kinds? if so what kind should i get for covering my side panel near the can?
 
Stupid question, but what is the best place to get heat tape? are there different kinds? if so what kind should i get for covering my side panel near the can?

In the past I've just used regular ducting tape, the aluminum kind. That worked well and it sticks to pretty much anything.

Justin
 
To prevent the track edges from fraying.... Grind or file the back edge of your drop brackets right where the track comes around and goes up into the tunnel.

These edges are real sharp and when the track shifts from side to side this is where it will rub.

I was just doing the edges of my rear bumper last night, wtf... that was cut your hands and gloves while trying to lift the rear end out of the snow SHARP!

Also I turned the bolts around that mount the bumper so they don't cut me up while bailing off either. My first Polaris, but why oh why do they leave exposed bolt ends hanging out in the wind to snag your body/clothes on? bumper bolts, seat mount bolts, foot edge rail bolts...Yikes!
 
To prevent the track edges from fraying.... Grind or file the back edge of your drop brackets right where the track comes around and goes up into the tunnel.

These edges are real sharp and when the track shifts from side to side this is where it will rub.


Are you guys smoothing the front and rear edges trackside or cutting a smooth groove on the trackside face for more clearance?
 
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