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Short Cuts and Tricks.. Pro Chassis

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Rev Kev

Well-known member
Nov 27, 2007
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Lapeer Michigan
Awesome thread, Like the Step by steps.....any Info one should look into as far as changing chain case oil, I like to remove the cover, clean the inside, and inspect chain and gears. Never did too much to a Polaris, have been a Doo guy for the past 30 years:face-icon-small-con
 
A
Nov 30, 2007
1,281
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alaska
last year Some of ya know i was trying out a lot of heat tape on my running boards..

Well long term it worked well on the side that i did do it to..

so this year i am making it better


Adding my .02 Cents lol..

This makes it flush smooth..

Even though the heat tape did hold up all year.. this will forsure hold up

can you elaborate more on that please, maybe a pic?
 

Rick!

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Nov 26, 2007
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Awesome thread, Like the Step by steps.....any Info one should look into as far as changing chain case oil, I like to remove the cover, clean the inside, and inspect chain and gears. Never did too much to a Polaris, have been a Doo guy for the past 30 years:face-icon-small-con

I would change it after a few hundred miles. Since there are magnets on both the fill plug and the drain, nearly all the metal "floaties" are captured. The drain actually drains on a Pro, rather than spooging up the bottom of the fender like an IQ. Put the drain back in and fill with your favorite gear juice. (I use Amsoil tranny fluid but everyone has their favorite, Poo used to use Mobil 1 gear oil but went to something different that turns black after a short time.)
Then "fill to spill".

For those that like to remove their hood: (If you're good, you can use the spark plug tool to remove the Honda clips)

Use a 6mm x 1.00 tap and fully tap the hold down screw holes.

When re-installing the hood:

Set it down on the air intake to line it up and adjust it to the rear to line up the hold down screw holes,

Install the hold down screws most of the way,

go to the front of the hood and inspect to make sure it is lined up side to side then give it one "bap" with your hand to engage the hood to the nosepan.

Finish tightening the screws and pop the Honda clips back in.

If you try to engage the front of the hood and then install the screws, you end up fighting for that last 1/16" to get the screw started. In a warm garage it might work but when it's cold and the hood shrinks a little, you swear a bunch trying to get the g&# da*$ screws started.

YMMV
 
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NapaMatt

Matryx 850 Pow Slayer!
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Mar 13, 2009
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Stewartville, MN
www.napaonline.com
Heat Tape... Less Snow Build Up.. Info..

Well... To go in to Details...

I HATE ICE and Snow Build up!!

So i Figured out last year Simple Heat Tape Does the Trick...


I simply Covered the Small holes in the Rear of the Boards. On the Top and the Bottom..

I figured it wouldn't last all year.. With kicking and and ice and sticks and ect..

But It DID hold up..

So i figured i would take it one more step..

Filling the Void. to make it look smooth.. I used a PENNY.. With a Die Grinder Just touched up the edges.. to make a smaller penny to fill the Hold...

It worked Mint.. Penny fits TIGHT then you Put the Heat Tape On the Top and Bottom..



ALSO..

Drop Brackets Leaves Tons of Area for ICE ans SNOW to Build up...

So i also Taped them up Smooth..

Cuts down on snow build up again..

Well Heres some pics...

Picture 452.jpg Picture 457.jpg Picture 462.jpg Picture 456.jpg Picture 455.jpg Picture 466.jpg
 
S

Steve86

Member
Nov 28, 2007
133
18
18
Rathdrum, ID
Well... To go in to Details...

I HATE ICE and Snow Build up!!

So i Figured out last year Simple Heat Tape Does the Trick...


I simply Covered the Small holes in the Rear of the Boards. On the Top and the Bottom..

I figured it wouldn't last all year.. With kicking and and ice and sticks and ect..

But It DID hold up..

So i figured i would take it one more step..

Filling the Void. to make it look smooth.. I used a PENNY.. With a Die Grinder Just touched up the edges.. to make a smaller penny to fill the Hold...

It worked Mint.. Penny fits TIGHT then you Put the Heat Tape On the Top and Bottom..



ALSO..

Drop Brackets Leaves Tons of Area for ICE ans SNOW to Build up...

So i also Taped them up Smooth..

Cuts down on snow build up again..

Well Heres some pics...


My first year on a polaris Pro but I have always used Pam on all areas that snow builds up, front shocks, a-arms, drop down brackets, tunnel. Especially important on these newer sleds and the exposed front suspension. Look at any picture of these new sleds in deep powder and look at the snow packed in this area. Drops 10-20 lbs in a hurry.
 
K
Nov 26, 2007
238
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colorado
My first year on a polaris Pro but I have always used Pam on all areas that snow builds up, front shocks, a-arms, drop down brackets, tunnel. Especially important on these newer sleds and the exposed front suspension. Look at any picture of these new sleds in deep powder and look at the snow packed in this area. Drops 10-20 lbs in a hurry.

So is that the butter flavor ,or the extra virgin olive oil spray
 
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D

dmkhnr

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
1,963
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NV
Any work done to the intake side of the motor can be accessed by removing the seat and fuel tank.
Go to napa and buy the gm fuel injector line removal kit ($16). This will allow you to disconnect the 2 fuel lines from the fuel tank.
I can have the seat and fuel tank off the sled in 3 minutes.
 
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RMK-King

Super-Moderator
Dec 25, 2007
1,930
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North Dakota
The VES solenoid has a short vent hose dropping in front of the motor, just behind the primary. Some gooey junk comes out of that VES hose.

If you don't plug the VES solenoid lines, get about a 4' piece of gas line, got mine from napa, and replace the short vent hose, running down and along the round bulkhead brace and out of the bulkhead through the front mag-side motor mount access hole, fishing it back to the chaincase drain hole in the belly pan. Easiest when you pull the can, of course. Zip in place. No more mess under the motor, or crap by the primary.

I just did this tonight, I had a longer piece of 1/4 rubber hose laying around so here is how I routed mine to the bottom of the chaincase.
100_0657.jpg
 
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Reg2view

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Feb 1, 2010
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Nice work, and nice picture. Even better with the can not blocking the rear MM hole. Good luck!
 
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