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Shockwave Helix Install Problem

T

tollen77

Member
So, finally I'm installing my shockwave helix and changing the spring last night. As I button everything back up the clutch seems stuck together (completely closed). So I figure that something is binding - I take the entire thing apart again, ensure everything is lined up correctly with the black marks I made and put it back together again. Still stuck...

Does anyone have any thoughts as to why this is? I'm really stumped.


Thanks
 
Rollers are definately on the correct side of the ramp. Went to Al's suggested stronger spring - EPI Yellow - 235/350

I actually wonder if it's the spring... gonna try putting a different spring in and putting it together. If that works, then it must be the spring, right?
 
Gut feeling that the QRS doesn't need a bunch more side-load. I think more belt heat was created because the primary is fighting to open the secondary. Big spring makes a 45 helix act like a 42.....why not run 42 and a softer spring? Just an experiment.....I may put it back.
 
Nope....did the finger test. And the last set-up cooked my fingers. It was MUCH hotter than the stock set-up. Now don't everyone go thinkin' that I'm going against Al....I'm sure he would encourage more experimentation anyways....it's just that to get the same trackspeed I got with stock, ended up with the Shockwave at about 45 degrees and the primary was building a lot more heat.
 
That's the spring in mine....

(taking it out though)


I took the yellow back out of mine too, it just was like clicking up to 6 when I normally ride in 1 or 2.

I have 2 for sale in Calgary if anyone wants to try.

$20 Can. for the used on or $30 Can. for the new one.
 
I'd sure like to hear Turboal chime in on this. It sounded like he was able to make this setup work. I wonder why it isn't working for anyone else.

What kind of pin weight are you guys running that have tried the yellow EPI spring?
 
So, finally I'm installing my shockwave helix and changing the spring last night. As I button everything back up the clutch seems stuck together (completely closed). So I figure that something is binding - I take the entire thing apart again, ensure everything is lined up correctly with the black marks I made and put it back together again. Still stuck...

Does anyone have any thoughts as to why this is? I'm really stumped.


Thanks

Not clear on what you are seeing....it's supposed to be closed. ????:beer;
 
Gut feeling that the QRS doesn't need a bunch more side-load. I think more belt heat was created because the primary is fighting to open the secondary. Big spring makes a 45 helix act like a 42.....why not run 42 and a softer spring? Just an experiment.....I may put it back.

So DaveB are leaving the shockwave in or going back the stock helix?
 
Not clear on what you are seeing....it's supposed to be closed. ????:beer;

There's no pressure from the helix onto the rollers though WB... something is definately binding. When I screw in the plastic adjuster the clutch does not open as it's already stuck past the point that the adjuster would open it.
 
Often when the finish force on the secondary is increased, the sled will hold higher rpm's throughout the shift curve. This may be a benefit at times but this is also a PITA when going down the trail.

To oversimplify things, if you were riding your pedal bike up a hill, would you shift up or shift down to maintain speed? Now if you were looking for speed on the flats, would you gear up to go faster on your bike? Now just a thought, why would BRP install a helix in a mountain sled (43/47) that encourages upshifting?
 
i had a problem with mine and the ramps were scraping on the inside bore of the clutch. Had to touch up the ramp near the pin with a file to prevent binding. I bought it from BIGJOHN and he contacted shockwave and they said they had some casting problems on some of the ramps.

Cinno
 
There's no pressure from the helix onto the rollers though WB... something is definately binding. When I screw in the plastic adjuster the clutch does not open as it's already stuck past the point that the adjuster would open it.

Without a tortion spring like the old style clutches had, the rollers will not contact the helix until it is under a load from the engine.
 
Without a tortion spring like the old style clutches had, the rollers will not contact the helix until it is under a load from the engine.


Yeah, WB... I'm a dork. Took it a part again last night and then reassembled. Everything's fine. I'm an idiot.
 
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