SKU: SR99-SXCDI300 Slavens Racing
Setting up the 300 XC for snow
- Thread starter GlennRMK
- Start date
I got the sx CDI and I love it. Noticeable improvement in bottom to mid. I already had the sx head when I added the cdi. I hear they work well together. I got both from Slavens. Worth the money.
I'll be running my 16' 300 XCW w/ 38mm Lectron with Avid set up, Scalvini pipe, FMF Powercore muffler, and a Koso EGT guage.
What are good baseline EGT's for idle?
I'm on the east coast so I don't think having a W will effect me as much as you guys out west. Can't wait to shred.
What are good baseline EGT's for idle?
I'm on the east coast so I don't think having a W will effect me as much as you guys out west. Can't wait to shred.
What setting did you use for the factory carb ?
Also with the cold pipe it's odd to tune, sometimes it feels rich sometimes it feels lean...
Just an update
I definitely would not like the XC-W tranny.
With my XC and 12/17 (17/17 in the case), I hardly ever use 1st. In 2nd and 3rd most of time and the gaps between 2-3 and 3-4 feel a little big. SX 5 speed would be superior for sure. However top speed is already pretty low with the 6 speed. 5 speed would be super slow. I think the SX 5 speed with the 6th from the XC added would be ideal but I'm not sure if that is possible
I ride 6-9k but most of the good riding is 8-9k. I started with a 165 main. Felt rich and the plug showed it. Switched to a 162. Still feels rich and probably will drop to a 160. I run the Suzuki NECJ needle in the 3rd clip and a 40 pilot. Runs perfect idle through the mid. Once in a while it will kind of studder briefly wide open but comes out of it.
Started with a foam uni filter and outerwears prefilter. Foam filter just got filled with snow. Switched to a just a prefilter over a cage and works much better. Bike runs much better too. I just removed the air boot and left the air box. I run a silicone 45 degree boot to the cage and the filter sits half in the box and half out. Stays pretty clean.
PST carb heater works and fits fantastic
I definitely would not like the XC-W tranny.
With my XC and 12/17 (17/17 in the case), I hardly ever use 1st. In 2nd and 3rd most of time and the gaps between 2-3 and 3-4 feel a little big. SX 5 speed would be superior for sure. However top speed is already pretty low with the 6 speed. 5 speed would be super slow. I think the SX 5 speed with the 6th from the XC added would be ideal but I'm not sure if that is possible
I ride 6-9k but most of the good riding is 8-9k. I started with a 165 main. Felt rich and the plug showed it. Switched to a 162. Still feels rich and probably will drop to a 160. I run the Suzuki NECJ needle in the 3rd clip and a 40 pilot. Runs perfect idle through the mid. Once in a while it will kind of studder briefly wide open but comes out of it.
Started with a foam uni filter and outerwears prefilter. Foam filter just got filled with snow. Switched to a just a prefilter over a cage and works much better. Bike runs much better too. I just removed the air boot and left the air box. I run a silicone 45 degree boot to the cage and the filter sits half in the box and half out. Stays pretty clean.
PST carb heater works and fits fantastic
Looking for some info on other guys settings. I'm having a hell of a time getting the APT smartcarb dialed in. Like others once you get low to mid throttle openings set, it's too lean at 3/4 throttle. Damn near melted it down on the trail in. It's about to be tossed for a 450 if this keeps up.
The bike is a 2012 300xc, S3 head with SX CDI. BR8eix plug right now. Avid heater with jacket and bypass. Carb has all updates done and the Q07 rod in it.
To all you smartcarb people, tell me what your setting are. Tx
The bike is a 2012 300xc, S3 head with SX CDI. BR8eix plug right now. Avid heater with jacket and bypass. Carb has all updates done and the Q07 rod in it.
To all you smartcarb people, tell me what your setting are. Tx
A few pics
Also I can verify the Pro Circuit pipe w/FMF shorty, Slavens head mod, and 300 SX CDI makes a difference
Stock 300s usually make around 36-39 HP at the wheel. I made 43.2 HP at 8500 RPM. My 09 Honda 450R with full Yoshimura exhaust and tuning made 41.2 HP. KX450s and RMZ450s make around 42. 14+ YZ450s and 13+ KTM 450s make 45-46 HP. KTM 500s only make around 40. So I'm happy with the 300 numbers. In the snow it is definitely more difficult to ride. You need to keep it revved up and on the pipe like a 125 on the dirt. But it seems to work well. Just doesn't have the mid range roll on torque of a 450.
Also I can verify the Pro Circuit pipe w/FMF shorty, Slavens head mod, and 300 SX CDI makes a difference
Stock 300s usually make around 36-39 HP at the wheel. I made 43.2 HP at 8500 RPM. My 09 Honda 450R with full Yoshimura exhaust and tuning made 41.2 HP. KX450s and RMZ450s make around 42. 14+ YZ450s and 13+ KTM 450s make 45-46 HP. KTM 500s only make around 40. So I'm happy with the 300 numbers. In the snow it is definitely more difficult to ride. You need to keep it revved up and on the pipe like a 125 on the dirt. But it seems to work well. Just doesn't have the mid range roll on torque of a 450.
I know a couple people who tried the smart carb and had a hell of a time getting it to work. One gave up and one spent all last year trying to get it to work. Hence I stuck with stock carb.
P
Pedec
Member
My 2012 250sx fmf pipe and shorty silencer with avid carb heat and 38mm lectron carb works great on 2013 timbersled sx. Only problem is gearing a 12 tooth sprocket is the only one that works with proper chain tension. But with 12-16 17-17 combination and a sx 5 speed top speed is only 35mph. So I am going to try 12-16-20-17 and hopefully get top speed to 45mph. Did run 14-16-17-17 with half link in chain and was way better but after riding 1 hour ride half link was getting destroyed and would fail. Lectron carbs really work well.
Thats the best description i have heard of a 300 yet. That's exactly how i would describe it in comparison to other bikes.
C
capulin overdrive
Well-known member
Anybody pics of how you plumbed in the Avid tstat?
Or things not to do?
Or things not to do?
Read about way too many wasting a year trying to get that carb to work and never getting a fix. Sell it and get the Lectron. You can try searching and you will find all of the people having problems.
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About the carb jacket, I bought a Avid neoprene one, and I wish I had not.
It's too big for my taste, you almost have to remove the gas tank to fit, once it's on, reaching the choke is a PITA, and almost impossible once it gets wets then you stop and it becomes a huge block of frozen neoprene.
Also, the portion near the pipe is subject to burning.
I will probably sew one in a material that doesn't absorb water and with a patch of heat resistant material near the pipe...
It's too big for my taste, you almost have to remove the gas tank to fit, once it's on, reaching the choke is a PITA, and almost impossible once it gets wets then you stop and it becomes a huge block of frozen neoprene.
Also, the portion near the pipe is subject to burning.
I will probably sew one in a material that doesn't absorb water and with a patch of heat resistant material near the pipe...
neopreme jacket
I had the same experience with neopreme for carb jacket several years ago, ball of ice and hard to deal with.
I have had the best result with carefull fitting of plastic sheet around both sides of carb, fitted down tight to top of engine cases and back of engine, cold air and snow off carb and trapping engine heat has been a benefit for my yz.
I had the same experience with neopreme for carb jacket several years ago, ball of ice and hard to deal with.
I have had the best result with carefull fitting of plastic sheet around both sides of carb, fitted down tight to top of engine cases and back of engine, cold air and snow off carb and trapping engine heat has been a benefit for my yz.
I haven't had any issues with the carb jacket. Seems to work well. I also coiled up my vent tubes in it to keep the snow and ice off them.
The jacket works while riding. But try riding then stopping for a while. It freezes, then it's next to impossible to access the choke to start the bike back. Then when you manage to access the choke, don't think about putting the carb jacket the way it was...
I gotcha
I only use the chock for that first start in the morning so that's why it doesn't bother me.
My old Gasgas used a handlebar mounted choke cable. Maybe a guy could switch if you need the choke all the time
Just got my Extended Choke Cable from Lectron, to make it easer to get at. Will be way nicer.
Also got a 4-2 metering rod that they said works great. My 3-3 works good, but might try it.
Said to start it way richer length, @ 2.024", instead of 2.078with the 3-3. Assuming so it will compensate for the lean low end taper. Wondering if anyone has tried this 4-2 needle on there Snowbike?
Also got a 4-2 metering rod that they said works great. My 3-3 works good, but might try it.
Said to start it way richer length, @ 2.024", instead of 2.078with the 3-3. Assuming so it will compensate for the lean low end taper. Wondering if anyone has tried this 4-2 needle on there Snowbike?
