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Setting up 2010 YZ450 for Snow bike

After a 3 day ride in deep conditions found alot of fuel in my oil.. Air box did have some snow in it but pod/filter were fairly clean.. I relocated air box sensor to underneath my prefilter and zip tied it too pod, also blocked in both rads and made a engine cover out of crazy carpet plastic material..Went for a rip around home here temps were cool -16 celsius/2 degrees fahrenheit and temps were over 200F snow isnt deep here unblocked one rad an temps were 180-200F oil looked great.. Heading to the hills in a few days see how it is in the deep

photo.jpg
 
I started by tapping into the stock YZ450F tuner port power supply with the right size pin. (this was over a year ago so I can't remember the pin size. sorry!)



Thanks so much for this photo. I'm trying to decide the best place to tap into power for heated grips. Just exactly how did you get into the tuner port supply? Mine appears to be sealed on the top and I don't want to wreck it. I'm new to EFI Yamahas BTW. Thanks!
 
20140110_122144_zpsf2783f7f.jpg
I unplugged the tuner port from the terminal, then the terminal just clips off the frame. I was able to find some pins and connectors lying around my parts bins. The connector looks similar to this in the terminal. The only thing you may have to modify is the little sealing boot. (The one where the red wire is coming out of in the picture you quoted) to remove it, I just used my pocket knife to pry it out. It won't be the end of the world if you break or lose it because you can plug it off with pretty much anything. You may be able to find everything you will need at radio shack. Just make sure the pin will fit and clip in correctly so you won't have problems with it down the road.
 
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High Voltage issue

Thanks again Jacobdewey. So I tapped in to the exact same wire you did with success. Put it all together and tested my nice new AME heated grips. Didn't work! Some troubleshooting revealed that there is roughly 30 volts coming out of the bike when idling. Never heard of anything like this before. Next I grabbed my battery charger (about 15v) and tested the grips with it. Worked beautifully. This tells me that the intelligence in the grips is not allowing them to turn on due to excessive voltage. Does anybody have some experience on this? Is 30v normal? I'm wondering if I have a overachieving stator. The bike runs great. It's a new 2013 with less than one hour on the motor. :face-icon-small-dis
 
Might need one of these. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/s...il-Tech-Universal-Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier if your anywhere near southeast idaho, I have one sitting around that i'd let you use to test. I've only ever ran led lights with the port, and most led's have a operating range of 9-30 volts so I've never had an issue. Too bad My bike is at a buddies shop or else I could go test the voltage and see what my bike is making.
 
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Hey guys, just figured I'd put up a pic of the Cyclops light I just got finished installing.
Install was straight forward and wiring and plugs were all good quality. Light seems really bright in the garage.
One problem I did run into is the mount wasn't high enough to clear the cycra handguard mounts, so ill need to do a little modding there so I'm able to shine the light down a bit.
Also for set up, I found that loosening the limiter strap on the front and loosening the rear shock really makes this kit a lot easier to ride, for me anyways. Bike seems to steer a lot easier in those hard pack situations.

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I also just mounted the cyclops light. It was a little difficult mounting because I have a 2 inch riser and the Cycra pro-bend bush guards. I'm really happy with the finished product though!

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Might need one of these. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/s...il-Tech-Universal-Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier if your anywhere near southeast idaho, I have one sitting around that i'd let you use to test. I've only ever ran led lights with the port, and most led's have a operating range of 9-30 volts so I've never had an issue. Too bad My bike is at a buddies shop or else I could go test the voltage and see what my bike is making.

I think you're right JD. My limited knowledge of electrical is improving at least. Will let you know how this works.
 
Hey are any of you YZ riders running a fuel controller on your bike? I was on the Dobeck website and couldnt find anything for YZ's. To tell you the honest truth im not even 100% sure what they do to the bikes or if I even need one. I just see lots of other guys with different bikes running them.
 
they definately make controllers for all makes and model of dirtbikes, give them a call and they can explain what they have and how it works.

Most snowbike guys are running the AFR+ aka gen4 which uses a wideband o2 sensor to trim fueling from approx 25%+ engine load to ensure ideal operating air fuel ratios instead of the stock open loop fueling system dumping gas in based off a map not designed for the super cold.
 
electrical pwr

FYI, my 2011 yz is able to run the cyclops 600 light, from night rider on here, and power AME off road hot grips on high, all at the same time. No issues whatsoever. The light comes with a harness that Y s into a connector by the rh radiator. Then i spliced into the pwr wire going to the light. I thing the gytr tuner plug in, is unregulated voltage, and may give the electronic grips a fit.
 
Hey Jackobdewey I've got a question for ya, I used your method here to wire up 2 led pods and couldn't get it working. After testing all my connections I decided to try just one led pod and it worked great. When testing the led lights with a 18v battery, they both worked. I wired them up in series. Is there not enough juice from the power tuner plug to power the led bars? I was getting 15v at idle. These are the lights http://www.amazon.com/Pack-xMount-Harness-Off-Road-Utility/dp/B00NY4LWSI

Got a 24hr race coming up and wanna run 2 lights if I can!! Thanks:hippie:

20140110_122144_zpsf2783f7f.jpg
I unplugged the tuner port from the terminal, then the terminal just clips off the frame. I was able to find some pins and connectors lying around my parts bins. The connector looks similar to this in the terminal. The only thing you may have to modify is the little sealing boot. (The one where the red wire is coming out of in the picture you quoted) to remove it, I just used my pocket knife to pry it out. It won't be the end of the world if you break or lose it because you can plug it off with pretty much anything. You may be able to find everything you will need at radio shack. Just make sure the pin will fit and clip in correctly so you won't have problems with it down the road.
 
Update: I believe my problem was wiring in series, which split the voltage to 7.5v each (9-30volt range on lights). I've wired them in parallel now and will try once I get home.
 
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