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Set Screw issues

Thanks to this post, I went out and checked my MDS weights. Sure enough, the set screws had come lose and the weights had shifted over. When they shifted, two of the bolts in the tip of the weights cut nice gouges out of the side of my clutch. I went ahead and re-centered the weights on the holes, cleaned the threads on the screws and holes and reset them with blue loctite. I am thinking I need to get some red loctite or maybe something even more difficult to remove.

I can see I may have to drill the holes in the bolts a hair deeper once again. Then I will be worried about another bolt breaking right at the hole and ruining another day of riding.

Hum..... what to do now.

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A guy can add little brass washers on each side of the weight to keep it from walking too far left or right if the screws do come loose. I did it to mine just for piece of mind.. as spidars and balancing are expensive..

Jim
 
I used to put washers on the sides of my weights (old school) and throw away the tiny set screws.

Later, I found that standard head Allen screws fit, with no clearance issues through the complete swing radius of the weight. Since I started using those, I have had zero problems and I can throw away my tiny little stripped out Allen wrenches.
 
Tony, I don't quite understand. The stock set screws are Allen head bolts. I'm not sure what you mean when you say a "standard head Allen screws fit". Can you please explain or better yet show a picture of what you mean?

If you mean non flush machine head screws with Allen head receptacles in them, I get it. Use those on the secondary clutch to hold the helix in place because they don't strip out. The more I think about it, the more that makes sense.
 
Tony, I don't quite understand. The stock set screws are Allen head bolts. I'm not sure what you mean when you say a "standard head Allen screws fit". Can you please explain or better yet show a picture of what you mean?

If you mean non flush machine head screws with Allen head receptacles in them, I get it. Use those on the secondary clutch to hold the helix in place because they don't strip out. The more I think about it, the more that makes sense.

Frostbite, Could you please post a pic of what you mean by "non flush machine head screws with Allen head receptacles in them"? Hopefully Tony will post a pic as well.

Thanks.
 
I used to put washers on the sides of my weights (old school) and throw away the tiny set screws.

Later, I found that standard head Allen screws fit, with no clearance issues through the complete swing radius of the weight. Since I started using those, I have had zero problems and I can throw away my tiny little stripped out Allen wrenches.

Rather than a brass washer how about plastic ones.. shouldn't add any appreciable weight. has anyone gone this route?
 
My brother used plastic washers, its just there are less plastic washers available in thickeness wise compared to brass or stainless. As long as there is a balance, even washers per weight, you should be fine with what ever you choose.. I thought about using more of the factory o-rings in place of the washers and thought it might be a bit quieter. They are not meant for daily use with out the set screws, they are just a fail safe washer.
 
Putting a washer in will save your spider but do not continue to run with a loose set screw. The weights have no bushing in them and you will wear out your weight and bolt. Regular allen bolts have a round head on them, cats allen screws are basically a plug not a bolt. Put red loctite in the hole and allen screw. If the threads are poorly cut and too loose they will work loose, doing a little thread smashing would be the only chance of keeping them tight.
 
What size are these allens? It's really hard to tell if they're M4x0.8 or 8-32. The pitch is really close between a metric 0.8 and an imperial 32.

M4x0.8 doesnt seem standard so I bought 8-32 allen but they don't feel right.

What do you guys use?
 
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