Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Running boards(yet another thread...)

S

stem

Well-known member
So guy's... I'm looking for a new set of running boards to my 2011 PRMK
And I have looked at Skinz, B&M and WRP boards, and thus far the B&M sticks out due to prize, BUT: are they reliable or will they fold?
Reason for my question is since I recon the Skinz are expensive since they are of a higher grade of aluminium than the rest of the producers, or am I wrong?
Will the B&M hold up as good as the rest?
Please share your experiences and opinions

Thanks
 
They will hold up as good as or better than any. Guaranteed. We use an aluminum that is the right alloy for the application, and we buy it in batches made specifically for us. They are US made and TIG welded with high quality standards.

Bryan

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
I've run B&M boards and bumpers on all my sleds. Absolutely top notch stuff. My '17 AXYS's will be outfitted with them as well. The durability and fit/finish is top notch. You wont be disappointed.
 
Another nod for the B&M Fab stuff. Running the boards, front/rear bumpers on multiple sleds and have been very impressed. Had one sled end over end 3 times then Transition to barrel rolls, sled finally came to rest by slamming up against a tree, thought for sure it was totaled. Got up to it and to my utter amazement not only was the sled straight but the bumpers and boards which took all of the impacts from the nose to tail impacts and the board that slammed up against the tree were PERFECT!!! Well designed products that live up to the name BURLY!
 
I think that you can not beat the Burandt boards at your Polaris Dealer. I have put 3 sets on both 10 Dragon and a couple of Pro 163s and except for the Dragon, It is a bolt/rivet on in less than 2 hr job if you have a reasonable saber saw and a die grinder for clean up. I also use 3M panel bond along the bottom joint as I am putting it on to rivet.
gtwitch in wyoming
 
I think that you can not beat the Burandt boards at your Polaris Dealer. I have put 3 sets on both 10 Dragon and a couple of Pro 163s and except for the Dragon, It is a bolt/rivet on in less than 2 hr job if you have a reasonable saber saw and a die grinder for clean up. I also use 3M panel bond along the bottom joint as I am putting it on to rivet.
gtwitch in wyoming

x2

Or look around for some takeoffs, like I did. I have Airframes on my SBA and takeoffs on my RMK. I prefer the Polaris boards because they are just as "sticky" but don't shred boots like B&M or Airframes do. No doubt, those boards are awesome, but I have to rebuild the soles of my Klim boots several times each season because of those traction screws. The plastic cleats on the Airframes are more forgiving, but they're only on the inside tubes.

sled.jpg
 
x2

No doubt, those boards are awesome, but I have to rebuild the soles of my Klim boots several times each season because of those traction screws. The plastic cleats on the Airframes are more forgiving, but they're only on the inside tubes.


Where did you have your soles rebuilt???? Does Klim replace the soles?? I have the same problem with my WRP boards...
 
I have Skinz Airloks. They sit 2" higher, and narrow up the body a bit. They completely change the handling and "snowmobility" of the sled.

I don't care which brand you purchase. Get the Axys boards from BM fab or Airlocs from Skinz. This is no joke. I can't even hardly jump on a stock sled anymore.
 
Where did you have your soles rebuilt???? Does Klim replace the soles?? I have the same problem with my WRP boards...

I just do it myself with Shoe Goo. It works fairly well. It's not ideal, but better than having to replace $250 boots. The rubber that Klim uses is fairly soft, which is great for traction but tends to wear out more quickly than some other harder sole boots.

Maybe someone has a recommendation on an ideal boot for the traction screw type running boards??
 
I just do it myself with Shoe Goo. It works fairly well. It's not ideal, but better than having to replace $250 boots. The rubber that Klim uses is fairly soft, which is great for traction but tends to wear out more quickly than some other harder sole boots.

Maybe someone has a recommendation on an ideal boot for the traction screw type running boards??

The way I see it is I'd rather have the the soles wear out then have my shins chewed up. With traction screws your feet simply stay planted and never slip, where as with stock boards my feet still slip off sometimes.
 
I personally wouldnt mess with burandt boards or take off powder tracs. They destroy everything, including your body, and they hold way more snow than tube style boards. Pony up and buy the tubes if your upgrading anyway.

From what I have seen in the forums and real life B&M would be my first choice. Skinz stuff is harder to get, more expensive, and not built as well.
 
Having used the Pro B&M boards for a couple years, I will say I like the look of the Axys boards better. They utilize a flat bar along the tunnel instead of a tube. The tunnel side tube on mine will ice over after a while. The flat face of the bar should mitigate this.
 
The boards in the picture are the L.E version(quite a bit more $$$than the regular boards)
if I'm not mistaken they have a limited amount left.
 
The flat plate is what makes them expensive. They are much trickier to physically produce. They are limited and we probably won't pursue that design further for now. Get them while you can!

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk
 
Premium Features



Back
Top