Would I have to change my drivers out in order to run this? I understand that I would have to do so in order to clear 3" paddles, but would I need to do so still if it has smaller lugs, like 2.25 or 2.5" paddles with a 3.0 pitch? I want to try the powerclaw 153 on my PRO next season, my 5.1 has had it, starting to lose paddles.
Running a Powerclaw track...
- Thread starter ryan_625
- Start date
Stock Pro is a 2.86 pitch. Power Claw is a 3.00. If you want the PC track you need 3.00 drivers. You can get them from Carls
Thats what I thought, was just confirming.
And man, that is sucked up tight on there to get it over! That can't be fun putting the skid back in.
And man, that is sucked up tight on there to get it over! That can't be fun putting the skid back in.
P
pura vida
Well-known member
yes you have to change your drivers. as stated above the pitch of the two tracks is different. the more important question is if you go with 7 or 8 tooth drivers. 7 tooth will require a chaincase mod and is a tighter radius to turn the track around but gives you more bulkhead clearance. the 8 tooth drivers don't require any modifications but the track to bulkhead clearance is super tight. there are arguments as to how much of a difference this makes. if you talk to carl's they will tell you to go with the 8 tooth drivers. if you go this route the track does fit. when you first get it installed, it will be bow string tight even with the adjustment blocks all the way forward. but it will stretch some on your first ride. imo, most importantly do NOT run combo drivers. if you run your track at the proper tension combo/extroverts are completely unnecessary. actually this applies to any track on any sled regardless of make or model. first thing i do on a new polaris is cut out that complete POS center extrovert driver. anywy, good luck.
pv
pv
Forgive my lack of knowledge in this area, but should I run an anti-stab kit when I swap out the drivers? This would allow me to run more slack in the future as well right?
I have almost all the parts at my dads shop waiting to be thrown on something, we ordered them for his 163 but never swapped drivers or put the anti-stab in. And I would probably got with the 8 tooth drivers, I would prefer to not have to drop and roll if I don't have to.
I have almost all the parts at my dads shop waiting to be thrown on something, we ordered them for his 163 but never swapped drivers or put the anti-stab in. And I would probably got with the 8 tooth drivers, I would prefer to not have to drop and roll if I don't have to.
P
pura vida
Well-known member
you don't need anti-stab if you don't cut your rails. you don't need to cut your rails if you don't run combo drivers. combo drivers are completely unnecessary. running "more slack" in your track is a bad thing and you will loose performance if you do. running proper track tension on any sled is really important. especially with how little track to bulkhead clearance you will have with your setup.
the chaincase mod i was talking about is not a d&r. a d&r would more likely be done with the 8 tooth drivers to increase bulkhead clearance. if you run 7 tooth drivers the track doesn't clear the chaincase and rubs. the chaincase needs to be notched to clear the track. i haven't had it done but supposedly it isn't too big of a deal. much easier than doing an d&r. there is a couple threads on it if you search some. but the easiest, most straight forward, and least expensive is to run the 8 tooth drivers.
pv
the chaincase mod i was talking about is not a d&r. a d&r would more likely be done with the 8 tooth drivers to increase bulkhead clearance. if you run 7 tooth drivers the track doesn't clear the chaincase and rubs. the chaincase needs to be notched to clear the track. i haven't had it done but supposedly it isn't too big of a deal. much easier than doing an d&r. there is a couple threads on it if you search some. but the easiest, most straight forward, and least expensive is to run the 8 tooth drivers.
pv
Thanks for assisting in your knowledge here. I do want to avoid cutting my rails at all, I just put the Ice Age Bomber rails on (Solid rail, no cutouts at all..) so I will probably go with an 8 tooth driver and go from there. I will have plenty of time to learn/sort everything out, its going to be a summer project.
Guys were running 3.0 pitch tracks on their Ski Doos with 2.86 drivers with no issues a few years back. Did they eventually find they were having issues?
Yes, they did.
M
mike_s
Well-known member
That statement is pretty broad. So what youre saying is that if i have a 250+ HP engine then those 2 standard center drivers are suficient enough to run the track at a reasonable tension (not so tight that you could play a tune on it) without it slipping? Cause it is my expirience that with 165 HP and 9 tooth drivers, all 4 of them, the track will still slip from time to time. That same engine in an IQ chassis with only the 2 center drivers wont hold onto the track unless its so tight that it feels like you're on the brakes as soon as you let off the throttle. While i agree that most stock sleds will never need combo drivers, and i also agree that it can hurt performance running the track too loose, a guy shouldnt make such a broad statement as "any track on any sled regardless of make or model". That is simply too broad and will invite confusion IMO.
P
pura vida
Well-known member
well since we aren't in the turbo section, no i wasn't referring to 250+hp sleds. sorry. but as far as stock sleds, particularly 07 and newer polaris mountain sleds ranging from 144 to 163, i stand my my statement combo drivers are completely unnecessary. does that mean there are situations that might show otherwise? no, it does not. and i think 99% of those reading the thread understood that i as referring to 99+% of situations. and since we are getting into the details of it, "proper tension" can obviously be subjective. for ME, i find that 3/4 of an inch of sag at 16 inches from the rear axle with a 10 lbs weight hung from the track works great and i haven't had any ratcheting issues in the last four years. and yes, we run in some very wet, heavy snow at times. in fact it is more often those conditions we find ourselves in rather than dry, blower days. i've never had an issue with feeling like the brakes were on when i left off the gas either. so in conclusion, i guess my statement was slightly too broad. hopefully i clarified any misunderstandings...
pv
pv
C
coolx2
Well-known member
I'll second that. Feel the same way with what PV said.
I've had this track in my mod IQ... worked really well..
I liked the combo drivers on there... and had zero issues... I know Jack and the crew at carls swear by the involute only route... but there is more than one way to bake a cake... Heck... Polaris uses combo drivers on their race sleds for years... cat, doo, and yami as well...
IMO.. For high HP applications the Combos are a necessity IMO... Jack has plenty of turbo clients that would say otherwise though.
Ride it... enjoy it.
All that being said... the 7 tooth (only in combo config) give you more rear idler adjustment and with the single ply tracks... dont give up anything in rolling resistance IMO.
I liked the combo drivers on there... and had zero issues... I know Jack and the crew at carls swear by the involute only route... but there is more than one way to bake a cake... Heck... Polaris uses combo drivers on their race sleds for years... cat, doo, and yami as well...
IMO.. For high HP applications the Combos are a necessity IMO... Jack has plenty of turbo clients that would say otherwise though.
Ride it... enjoy it.
All that being said... the 7 tooth (only in combo config) give you more rear idler adjustment and with the single ply tracks... dont give up anything in rolling resistance IMO.
I haven't decided if I want to go through with this completely yet...I haven't had any issues with my 5.1 but I know the PC is a good track. How did you like it? And why are you doing away with it?
P
pura vida
Well-known member
i do have to say the latest combo drivers developed by avid (and i believe with the help of mountain horse) do show some very nice promise. but for me, running them is not worth what it takes (rails and stab kit). if i was running a turbo my opinion might be completely different. i still say the polaris stock center extro does more harm than good.
pv
pv
M
mike_s
Well-known member
Dont take this the wrong way, its nothing more than curiosity and me wanting to have as much info as i can, but what are your reasonings on the center extrovert being harmfull?
