Rt1000 mods
- Thread starter slash
- Start date
Here is what I did so far. Next is NOS and brute forse arms.
http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?s=&showtopic=67017&view=findpost&p=2478789
Run pods, they will help with crank reliability. Past that there really isn't too much to be gained out the head, maybe a bit more compression? But the RT's had replaceable domes in them, and a lot better combustion chamber shape than the 8's.
Is the rear cooler gone? Added a thermostat yet?
For most things motor you're gonna need a fuel controller. Quite a few guys are running Crankshop twin pipes, I know they build some hp, but don't know about tuning. Bikeman makes a hard running BB for it, but pretty pricey!
Find a 2.5" or 3" track and a few suspension mods and that sled will pull like a freight train!
Is the rear cooler gone? Added a thermostat yet?
For most things motor you're gonna need a fuel controller. Quite a few guys are running Crankshop twin pipes, I know they build some hp, but don't know about tuning. Bikeman makes a hard running BB for it, but pretty pricey!
Find a 2.5" or 3" track and a few suspension mods and that sled will pull like a freight train!
I have a great little clutch kit for that RT that responds well to about any engine mods/bb/pipe(s) and put a bunch more ponies to the track.
Primary spring/pin kit/ helix
Joey
Primary spring/pin kit/ helix
Joey
I can vouch for Joe his kit rocks the RT. I have it and love it.
x2 on dj's kit, my rt rips pretty hard. There is a good shot of weight you can drop pretty easy.
Get that foam out of the nose, 2lbs dry more like 10 wet.
Swap out the can saves around 12lbs or more depending on what you run.
add the pod filters, and remove the airbox, more reliable and saves 5lbs if I recall.
If you have a tall wind screen cut it or remove it, 2 more pounds
I ported my 151, 2lbs
removed outside front bogies 2 more
2 wheel kit 1 lbs ( i built mine so no cost )
Rear cooler gone 7lbs including the coolant it housed.
stock tail light gone, 4 lbs.
So for the cost of a can , pods, and some time spent getting to know the sled you can drop an easy 37 lbs. There are other things that i removed but they were under a pound so I say 40 easy an easy number to reach
You could also doo a new skid, front a-arms, air shocks, boss seat but in my house the big ticket items take more time.
I do want to try running a NiCad battery pack ( think rc car ) instead of the stock lead acid battery, I wonder is lithiom ion batteries would hold up to the erratic charging and discharging of a sleds motor... With no hi draw aplications like a starter motor the fuel pump would be your highest single draw and it's lower draw then a drill motor.
Get that foam out of the nose, 2lbs dry more like 10 wet.
Swap out the can saves around 12lbs or more depending on what you run.
add the pod filters, and remove the airbox, more reliable and saves 5lbs if I recall.
If you have a tall wind screen cut it or remove it, 2 more pounds
I ported my 151, 2lbs
removed outside front bogies 2 more
2 wheel kit 1 lbs ( i built mine so no cost )
Rear cooler gone 7lbs including the coolant it housed.
stock tail light gone, 4 lbs.
So for the cost of a can , pods, and some time spent getting to know the sled you can drop an easy 37 lbs. There are other things that i removed but they were under a pound so I say 40 easy an easy number to reach
You could also doo a new skid, front a-arms, air shocks, boss seat but in my house the big ticket items take more time.
I do want to try running a NiCad battery pack ( think rc car ) instead of the stock lead acid battery, I wonder is lithiom ion batteries would hold up to the erratic charging and discharging of a sleds motor... With no hi draw aplications like a starter motor the fuel pump would be your highest single draw and it's lower draw then a drill motor.
I have been "told' litium batteries do not like cold.
You know I never even thought about the batteries performance in the cold... duh. I guess I will keep looking into the NiCad, I found some 13v packs a while ago but kinda got side tracked.
To add, remove the sway bar, remove plastic around the clutch cover, and "vent" the clutch cover with holes for cooling and belt life. I gutted both airboxes, added pods filters, and added a large vent kit. Once you ride it, you'll find it extremely easy on fuel, so use the gerry can to get down the hill and consider not filling to the brim if you won't likely need it,, every gallon (imp) is about 9#s. The sleds I ride with a nearly empty and I'll have half a tank yet,,, M7s use almost 50% more fuel on same day as the 1000,,, misc other crap like a little crazy carpet at the back where the rear exchanger was so the snow doesn't pack into a block back there. Still not sure how well it works, but I think it's an improvement. Actually I forget what all off it, just remove whatever you can,, the TSS can was 4# vrs 20# for the stock one. Also consider moving the fuel pump out from under the motor if you are ever under there, and a 15 plate chain is nice, stonger than stock 13 plate,, I run 20 over 49, but there's a 51 for the bottom I'd like to try.
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