I believe they are fairly accurate, but the digital "lags" behind actual RPM a bit. I go by the analog and shoot for 8000-8100 on a deep pull, 81-8200 on the flats....for the Powertec, not e-tec.
RPM fluctuation/reasons
- Thread starter winter brew
- Start date
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shortstop20
Well-known member
I'll be sure to watch the analog from now on then.
I have your clutch kit in. Don't remember which set screws(3/8" I think) are installed. 1 tooth lower on the upper gear. 175 pound rider.
Typically have to run in clicker 4 or 5 in deep Wyoming powder on long, deep pulls.
RPM's are always consistant during the pull, but it seems like number 4 puts me too low on RPM's and #5 puts me too high? Like I said, I'll be sure to pay more attention next time.
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P Money
Well-known member
Still have my jump issue, pulls great down low, around 5000 lags a bit up to 6000 it jumps up to 7000 and about throws me off. Dpm checked ok, all hoses and boots seem in tact, primary spring cover updated, cushion bushing updated, threw in djs mtn ramps, plugs and wires changed. Was hoping it was a fuel issue, but I've been through 5 tanks now and it is still VERY CONSISTENT!! talked to a skidoo only mechanic and he said that was just the raves opening from mid to full and was normal... IDK what else to try but it is really annoying when following someone or leading a group and I'm throwing roost in there face or their hitting the brakes and all I'm doing is trying to hold 45-50mph...
Any new ideas?
thanks
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Any new ideas?
thanks
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What sled? Any mods? How many miles on sled? Does this always happen or just under certain snow conditions? Getting snow on the belt?
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P Money
Well-known member
08 800 154, Joe's ramps, and snow stuff can. Happens always, uphill pulls, flatland pulls, deep snow, trails. Clutch seems dry, just couldn't hold 6500 rpms if life depended on it!! Its either 55-6 or over 7. Seems pretty doggy around 55-6 as well...
Thanks brew,
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All '07's need the updated spring cap/bushing assy (as in first post), and the secondary bushing in '07 are often shot at 200 miles. EVERYTHING in both clutches needs to be in good condition to be consistant.
What bushing are you talking about in the secondary clutch.
I brought my clutch in and the dealer said it's good.
I find it hard to believe. The clutch has 3400 miles on it
and has not been touched. I am going through the priamery
every 600 miles. I had it apart and the rollers looked good, but not
sure how to check the bushing.
Thanks
My E-Tec digital seems to be 1-200 lower than the analogue. And in plugging it in and looking at the top RPM at dealer, the data supports that. I showed max RPM of 8200 in the processor and I've "seen" higher than that on the dash. I have the recorder module so it's real easy to compare without actually having to look at two gages, ride the sled, AND not run into a friggn tree!
I think the digital is a more accurate in my case although it is slower to respond.
Yella'
I found it.
The 288 is softer compound than the 377. It will typically require one click up or a tad less weight since it slips less than the 377, 288 runs cooler since it slips less as well.I seam to get very high mileage with it, I replace only because they are wore narrower than spec, never blew one, Heat is the belt killer.Seams the 377 will help a poorly clutched sled hold RPM,s better.The hole shot on a 288 is stronger.'Softer compound" Downside is you really need to have primary dialed.
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P Money
Well-known member
If the dpm tests well could it still be failing? When u test it to batt does it just click once when hooked up? Does it just move a tiny bit? And if it was failing would sled always be running super rich? Sled seems to start, idle and run good up top without alot of fuel or oil consumption, its starting to bother me that it is so consistent and no one besides a mechanic told me its just the raves opening to full and its normal...
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