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RMK 900

I recently bought a used 2005 rmk 900 50th anniversary 166 track. It has a goldfinger left throttle and an SLP can/muffler.It has a leaking water pump seal. So I am pulling the motor and here is what have got so far. Sorry for the lousy pictures, poorly lit garage mixed with old cell phone camera.

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I will be adding:
New 06 motor mounts
water pump seal/impeller/oil seal
SLP torque stop and push arm
06 pistons
new intake boots
slp radiator delete

This should get me going, I have already had a lot of great advice from Franz and am appreciative of any tips or advice. Will be posting better pictures once I get it back together.

I have a question my manual is not very clear about (2005 polaris deep snow manual). Upon engine removal it says to drain the fuel, but never shows this process. Im getting ready to pull the tank to get at the wiring, do I need to drain fuel from the tank, or does it just need to be pressure relieved at the rail?

Whats the best way to drain the oil? manual also not clear on this

Thanks everyone, looking forward to gaining info from this forum!

-Chaz
 
fuel doesn't need to be drained...just depressurize and disconnect. Having said that you will want to minimize tank level so it doesn't weigh too much and more importantly so that you can move it without slopping fuel out the breather and fuel supply/return lines.

I use a manual pump to drain the oil below the center shaft oil line. $2 bulb one and $20 dollar pump one work about the same although the $20 one may drain quicker and last longer...

Be careful of the small coolant hose on the bottle...It is very easy to break the nipple off the bottle.

I use a shop vac to drain the coolant...stick it in the hose and suck almost all the coolant out.
 
Welcome to the forum. Keep up with 410Fortune he posted a very detailed thread that will help you out a lot.

As for the fuel draining question , you will need to get a ford fuel line disconnect tool 3/8" tool will work for both lines on the fuel tank. You can remove the fuel pressure from the Schrader valve on the fuel rail, unhook pump wiring and then the 2 fuel lines that Are a pain In the butt but doable.

Replace with a new fuel filter (spi brand on eBay for. $20-25 work great and also half of retail) FYI. Also Kimpex makes a great replacement throttle body boot that's also half of retail for like $20-25, search eBay for this as well. Ensure the TPS is set while it's out and replace TPS. Harness. Lastly I would change the reed petals, again SPI makes great ones and around $27 per cylinder...and change exhaust valve bellows...guess where...eBay, I believe spi makes these as well.

I ou need links to these items, after you search please...send me a pm and I'll send you the link to buy them off eBay


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Sloan188 I read somewhere on here about the shop vac trick for the coolant, it worked great for me!

Guido I got the intake boots from ebay. Will look for the rest you have mentioned, thanks!

Does anyone know if the Polaris dealer would give me the gas tank to install my self. The tank has the factory recall on it as far as I'm aware.
 
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Welcome!!! 900's are great sleds! The "tractor" of Polaris sleds

If yours is still factory, you will want to get a better throttle/oil cable also, the factory oiler cable is not only a pita to install, but they break and can cause lots of problems.

Thanks for the compliment guidoexpress!! I have a desk job so shop time is like my church! time to build custom stuff!

I remember when my wife picked out our first 900 because it "looked" way cooler then all the other used sleds, we have come a long way since then!! We had no idea what we were getting into....wouldnt have it any other way I am a huge fan of "fine tuning" the underdog vehicle. I drive a 300 hp 1988 Bronco II on 35's with ARB lockers, body drop, TTB suspension heated leather, etc. 900 Sled is no different! these are bad *** machines, they make Nascar power/weight ratio and once you lighten them up and dial them in.....lookout
 
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Welcome!!! 900's are great sleds! The "tractor" of Polaris sleds

If yours is still factory, you will want to get a better throttle/oil cable also, the factory oiler cable is not only a pita to install, but they break and can cause lots of problems.

Thanks for the compliment guidoexpress!! I have a desk job so shop time is like my church! time to build custom stuff!

I remember when my wife picked out our first 900 because it "looked" way cooler then all the other used sleds, we have come a long way since then!! We had no idea what we were getting into....wouldnt have it any other way I am a huge fan of "fine tuning" the underdog vehicle. I drive a 300 hp 1988 Bronco II on 35's with ARB lockers, body drop, TTB suspension heated leather, etc. 900 Sled is no different! these are bad *** machines, they make Nascar power/weight ratio and once you lighten them up and dial them in.....lookout

Thanks I'll look into the oiler cable. Is the FBF model the best? I read a forum somewhere that someone had Motion Pro cables making a special part number for these...

I once, bought a 2005 ford 6.0 diesel truck, without doing much research. Years later a lot of money and countless hours under the hood, I still wouldn't do it any different after the experience I have gained. There are those days spent on the side of the road that make me question my sanity for keeping the truck, but I've found it to be fun to fix on my own when I can.After doing the injectors on the super duty I figured this sled wouldn't be so bad...Fortunately I did a bit of research on this model polaris before I bought it and felt it to be a doable project for me. Hoping to keep it running for years to come.

The previous owner told me he had only taken it off the trail only a handful of times. it has 2200 miles on it. Any other tips for maintenance or anything is greatly appreciated.
 
6.0 Powerchoke!! I have heard the stories...man oh man

My tow rig is a Triton V-10, its awesome! I am in the market for a 7.3 Ford to have as backup...skip right over the 6.0's thanks to the internet!

knowledge is power!!

FBF and Motion Pro accomplish the same thing, one cable to drive throttle bodies and oil pump, thats what you are after
 
6.0 Powerchoke!! I have heard the stories...man oh man

My tow rig is a Triton V-10, its awesome! I am in the market for a 7.3 Ford to have as backup...skip right over the 6.0's thanks to the internet!

knowledge is power!!

FBF and Motion Pro accomplish the same thing, one cable to drive throttle bodies and oil pump, thats what you are after

Part of me thinks the 6.0 gets a large portion of its bad rep from the internet, but deep down I know there are some issues. Perhaps much like the 900, once the issues are taken care of it can be a reliable truck. I do most of my work myself, but I went to school for it so I have a slight advantage.

My family used to have the 1997 f250 with a 460 in it, ran it to 418,xxx miles on the original engine. That was a work horse.

Any experience with the motion pro cable, or should I get a FBF?
 
Get whichever cable is available.

I have a ford 4.0L OHV 95 explorer in our fleet with 370K on it still going, second trans and alot of custom wiring work to the awd system....valvetrain just keeps tick tick tick tick ing along!

The 96-01 explorer had gt-40 302 hydraulic roller engine in them with a 4r70w automatic transmission (from f/150 / expedition) one of the best Ford drivetrains ever made. I stuff these into all sorts of Ranger based trucks, cobra gt040 302 with a bombproof 4 speed automatic! we love them around here. Last of the pushrod smallblocks!!
 
Cheap and easy ( like that guys sister )
Gut the stock airbox/football...and right about the warning label area is where the "wall" or 90* upright aligns with the hood vent....
Frogskin/SLP whatever and blast a hole in it for cold air intake..ram air.

It's like they thought about it then wussed....?
 
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Well, it really wasn't as bad as it seemed! Got the motor out. Time to put on all the new parts and do lots of cleaning.

With the 06 pistons and new rings, can anyone recommend position of the piston ring gaps, should I offset them?
 
Good job!!

the pistons have tabs in the back so the rings can only be fit one way
Meaning you do not have any control of the overlap, it is built in.
The rings will have writing on one side this side is UP!!

(going from memory here on what I read)
The rings should tell you which way they get installed (which side is up) I am 99% sure the words face upwards.
 
Interesting, I'll double check this evening but I think that might only be on the wiseco and aftermarket ones? I could have just been tired but I swear the oem 06 ones I got don't have pins.
 
06 OEM definitely have pins. The pins are slightly offset and go to the rear of the engine during installation (arrow on top of the piston forward/pins to the back).

I also believe that you will find you can only install the rings properly as you will be able to easily tell if you have installed them upside down.
 
I did find that the pistons I purchased used had pins in them. I got this set of used 2006 pistons off ebay for 65$ and now I find out that one of them is pitted pretty bad. I have a new set of pistons ordered at my dealer, but can anyone tell me if this piston would be okay to run with new rings?

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After inspection of the water pump seal it didn't appear to be leaking, I put a new one in anyways. What a PITA to get the old one out.
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The previous owner told me it was a leaking water pump seal, and that when out riding one day he saw coolant on the ground. I don't think this seal was leaking however. And I didn't see any leak when I had it idling. Hopefully after the new top end there will not be any surprise leaks.
 
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