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Looking at the manual Pol recommends a .004-.0055 thou clearance and a 9 thou max limit. New they were our of spec.![]()
Mag cylinder bore measured 3.3467, piston was 3.416
So the piston was larger than the cylinder bore?![]()
It's is what I understand so far. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
The MAIN purpose of this kit is
- to eliminate one of the major causes of failure in the Poo 800 motor by installing new pistons that
- have better tolerances
- are lighter
The SIDE BENEFITS are
- a hp increase caused by
- a slight porting change
- the porting change is accomplished by the change in the piston not in actual porting of the motor.
- a change in compression
- better cooling due to the RKT billet head
- Overall the motor working more efficiently
While the end result is actually making the motor more efficient and reliable than it came from factory, you would lose your factory warranty even though you did not drastically altering it in any way. Correct? However you do eliminate most of the normal concerns that come with a "big bore kit".
Am I off base on anything here?
I currently ride a Cat. 13 PC800. Just got back from a week in CookE. I LOVED my sled. But, I rode with 6 different Pro's thru the week. 2- 12's 4- 13's. the 13's are the real deal. I can't say the Pro did anything my cat couldn't. But What it comes down to is I can't deny 50+ #'s. not even I can lose that much to compensate!(6'3" 250#)....I'm thinking about getting a pro next yr.
Here is what I have a hard time wrapping my mind around.....
I'm buying a brand new $11-12k machine prob with a 4yr warranty. The warranty isn't just piece of mind with the motor. Any number of things could go wrong that the warranty would back you up on. Then I would be spending $800 to make it reliable but I would be eliminating my warranty in the process. doesn't add up IMO.
Just trying to balance it all out in my mind.
It's is what I understand so far. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
The MAIN purpose of this kit is
- to eliminate one of the major causes of failure in the Poo 800 motor by installing new pistons that
- have better tolerances
- are lighter
The SIDE BENEFITS are
- a hp increase caused by
- a slight porting change
- the porting change is accomplished by the change in the piston not in actual porting of the motor.
- a change in compression
- better cooling due to the RKT billet head
- Overall the motor working more efficiently
While the end result is actually making the motor more efficient and reliable than it came from factory, you would lose your factory warranty even though you did not drastically altering it in any way. Correct? However you do eliminate most of the normal concerns that come with a "big bore kit".
Am I off base on anything here?
I currently ride a Cat. 13 PC800. Just got back from a week in CookE. I LOVED my sled. But, I rode with 6 different Pro's thru the week. 2- 12's 4- 13's. the 13's are the real deal. I can't say the Pro did anything my cat couldn't. But What it comes down to is I can't deny 50+ #'s. not even I can lose that much to compensate!(6'3" 250#)....I'm thinking about getting a pro next yr.
Here is what I have a hard time wrapping my mind around.....
I'm buying a brand new $11-12k machine prob with a 4yr warranty. The warranty isn't just piece of mind with the motor. Any number of things could go wrong that the warranty would back you up on. Then I would be spending $800 to make it reliable but I would be eliminating my warranty in the process. doesn't add up IMO.
Just trying to balance it all out in my mind.
It's is what I understand so far. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
The MAIN purpose of this kit is
- to eliminate one of the major causes of failure in the Poo 800 motor by installing new pistons that
- have better tolerances
- are lighter
The SIDE BENEFITS are
- a hp increase caused by
- a slight porting change
- the porting change is accomplished by the change in the piston not in actual porting of the motor.
- a change in compression
- better cooling due to the RKT billet head
- Overall the motor working more efficiently
While the end result is actually making the motor more efficient and reliable than it came from factory, you would lose your factory warranty even though you did not drastically altering it in any way. Correct? However you do eliminate most of the normal concerns that come with a "big bore kit".
Am I off base on anything here?
I currently ride a Cat. 13 PC800. Just got back from a week in CookE. I LOVED my sled. But, I rode with 6 different Pro's thru the week. 2- 12's 4- 13's. the 13's are the real deal. I can't say the Pro did anything my cat couldn't. But What it comes down to is I can't deny 50+ #'s. not even I can lose that much to compensate!(6'3" 250#)....I'm thinking about getting a pro next yr.
Here is what I have a hard time wrapping my mind around.....
I'm buying a brand new $11-12k machine prob with a 4yr warranty. The warranty isn't just piece of mind with the motor. Any number of things could go wrong that the warranty would back you up on. Then I would be spending $800 to make it reliable but I would be eliminating my warranty in the process. doesn't add up IMO.
Just trying to balance it all out in my mind.
So , other then the RKTec drop in kit , what (whos) other kit did you test
you can't ride a warranty
if you are a serious mountain rider, your sled won’t stay stock for long. No matter if it be clutching, exhaust or turbo…99% of the time the guys who are riding deep snow and steep terrain aren’t going to hang with a stock sled.
If you are buying and selling sleds every year, then maybe throwing another $1000 isn’t worth rebuilding a new engine. I bought a 2012 thinking I would keep it, turns out I wasn’t happy with the performance as I thought I would be and opted for the 2013 because of the new addition Polaris made (thicker cylinder skirts, belt drive, and lighter weight). That being said, I knew I was going to mod it and hold on to it for at least 2yrs, I will probably put 1,000 miles on it or so within those years, I think I can get by with running this sled with RKT pistons and not have to worry about rebuilding it. I also get some added horse power by doing so.
As far as warranty, I only get 1 yr warranties so I’m not wasting money that I know I won’t use anyway. If a sled really goes down after 300miles, do you really want the same parts back in it as it had before…I would spend the coin and send it to one of many reputably builders we have on here and let them make it bullet proof.
$0.02
So has the question been answered yet:
Can you add this kit to an 11, without running a fuel controller @ 3-7K'?
I am a modder as much as anyone but tired of running EFI controllers. On that note I am tired of waiting for my engine to be repaired.
The 11 and 12 can run with the stock exhaust and no fuel controller.... The 2013 , it appears, requires a fuel controllerSo has the question been answered yet:
Can you add this kit to an 11, without running a fuel controller @ 3-7K'?
I am a modder as much as anyone but tired of running EFI controllers. On that note I am tired of waiting for my engine to be repaired.
The 11 and 12 can run with the stock exhaust and no fuel controller.... The 2013 , it appears, requires a fuel controller
Though I can only speak to our test results, which are all done at 9500'-13000', the RKTek Drop in kit is with a doubt the best bang for the buck...
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Best bang for the buck?, some kits had more bang than RKT but were more money? Compared to what? Best compared to "others". This thread sounds like a paid endorsement. How about a list of all kits tested and the dyno number or something. Give us the test results, please.
This thread sounds like a paid endorsement.