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RKTek Drop in

How much do you gain with the kit? They ever been dynoed or does RK Tek claim a hp number?


VOHK are you using this kit on any of your turbo builds? Any gain with boost? More reliable with boost??
 
They work awesome on our turbo builds. We have both the drop in and direct replacement kits in our group.
 
Looking at the manual Pol recommends a .004-.0055 thou clearance and a 9 thou max limit. New they were our of spec.:jaw:

Those specs are only relevant to factory cast pistons. The forged ones require different clearances.
 
So i just wanna get this right…

It's is what I understand so far. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

The MAIN purpose of this kit is
- to eliminate one of the major causes of failure in the Poo 800 motor by installing new pistons that
- have better tolerances
- are lighter
The SIDE BENEFITS are
- a hp increase caused by
- a slight porting change
- the porting change is accomplished by the change in the piston not in actual porting of the motor.
- a change in compression
- better cooling due to the RKT billet head
- Overall the motor working more efficiently

While the end result is actually making the motor more efficient and reliable than it came from factory, you would lose your factory warranty even though you did not drastically altering it in any way. Correct? However you do eliminate most of the normal concerns that come with a "big bore kit".

Am I off base on anything here?


I currently ride a Cat. 13 PC800. Just got back from a week in CookE. I LOVED my sled. But, I rode with 6 different Pro's thru the week. 2- 12's 4- 13's. the 13's are the real deal. I can't say the Pro did anything my cat couldn't. But What it comes down to is I can't deny 50+ #'s. not even I can lose that much to compensate!(6'3" 250#)....I'm thinking about getting a pro next yr.

Here is what I have a hard time wrapping my mind around.....
I'm buying a brand new $11-12k machine prob with a 4yr warranty. The warranty isn't just piece of mind with the motor. Any number of things could go wrong that the warranty would back you up on. Then I would be spending $800 to make it reliable but I would be eliminating my warranty in the process. doesn't add up IMO.

Just trying to balance it all out in my mind.
 
It's is what I understand so far. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

The MAIN purpose of this kit is
- to eliminate one of the major causes of failure in the Poo 800 motor by installing new pistons that
- have better tolerances
- are lighter
The SIDE BENEFITS are
- a hp increase caused by
- a slight porting change
- the porting change is accomplished by the change in the piston not in actual porting of the motor.
- a change in compression
- better cooling due to the RKT billet head
- Overall the motor working more efficiently

While the end result is actually making the motor more efficient and reliable than it came from factory, you would lose your factory warranty even though you did not drastically altering it in any way. Correct? However you do eliminate most of the normal concerns that come with a "big bore kit".

Am I off base on anything here?


I currently ride a Cat. 13 PC800. Just got back from a week in CookE. I LOVED my sled. But, I rode with 6 different Pro's thru the week. 2- 12's 4- 13's. the 13's are the real deal. I can't say the Pro did anything my cat couldn't. But What it comes down to is I can't deny 50+ #'s. not even I can lose that much to compensate!(6'3" 250#)....I'm thinking about getting a pro next yr.

Here is what I have a hard time wrapping my mind around.....
I'm buying a brand new $11-12k machine prob with a 4yr warranty. The warranty isn't just piece of mind with the motor. Any number of things could go wrong that the warranty would back you up on. Then I would be spending $800 to make it reliable but I would be eliminating my warranty in the process. doesn't add up IMO.

Just trying to balance it all out in my mind.


you can't ride a warranty
 
It's is what I understand so far. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

The MAIN purpose of this kit is
- to eliminate one of the major causes of failure in the Poo 800 motor by installing new pistons that
- have better tolerances
- are lighter
The SIDE BENEFITS are
- a hp increase caused by
- a slight porting change
- the porting change is accomplished by the change in the piston not in actual porting of the motor.
- a change in compression
- better cooling due to the RKT billet head
- Overall the motor working more efficiently

While the end result is actually making the motor more efficient and reliable than it came from factory, you would lose your factory warranty even though you did not drastically altering it in any way. Correct? However you do eliminate most of the normal concerns that come with a "big bore kit".

Am I off base on anything here?


I currently ride a Cat. 13 PC800. Just got back from a week in CookE. I LOVED my sled. But, I rode with 6 different Pro's thru the week. 2- 12's 4- 13's. the 13's are the real deal. I can't say the Pro did anything my cat couldn't. But What it comes down to is I can't deny 50+ #'s. not even I can lose that much to compensate!(6'3" 250#)....I'm thinking about getting a pro next yr.

Here is what I have a hard time wrapping my mind around.....
I'm buying a brand new $11-12k machine prob with a 4yr warranty. The warranty isn't just piece of mind with the motor. Any number of things could go wrong that the warranty would back you up on. Then I would be spending $800 to make it reliable but I would be eliminating my warranty in the process. doesn't add up IMO.

Just trying to balance it all out in my mind.


Go with the cheater head. Motor will look stock and you shouldn't have a problem getting anything else covered.
 
It's is what I understand so far. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

The MAIN purpose of this kit is
- to eliminate one of the major causes of failure in the Poo 800 motor by installing new pistons that
- have better tolerances
- are lighter
The SIDE BENEFITS are
- a hp increase caused by
- a slight porting change
- the porting change is accomplished by the change in the piston not in actual porting of the motor.
- a change in compression
- better cooling due to the RKT billet head
- Overall the motor working more efficiently

While the end result is actually making the motor more efficient and reliable than it came from factory, you would lose your factory warranty even though you did not drastically altering it in any way. Correct? However you do eliminate most of the normal concerns that come with a "big bore kit".

Am I off base on anything here?


I currently ride a Cat. 13 PC800. Just got back from a week in CookE. I LOVED my sled. But, I rode with 6 different Pro's thru the week. 2- 12's 4- 13's. the 13's are the real deal. I can't say the Pro did anything my cat couldn't. But What it comes down to is I can't deny 50+ #'s. not even I can lose that much to compensate!(6'3" 250#)....I'm thinking about getting a pro next yr.

Here is what I have a hard time wrapping my mind around.....
I'm buying a brand new $11-12k machine prob with a 4yr warranty. The warranty isn't just piece of mind with the motor. Any number of things could go wrong that the warranty would back you up on. Then I would be spending $800 to make it reliable but I would be eliminating my warranty in the process. doesn't add up IMO.

Just trying to balance it all out in my mind.


I’m not trying to start any fires here so don’t take it as one. But if you are a serious mountain rider, your sled won’t stay stock for long. No matter if it be clutching, exhaust or turbo…99% of the time the guys who are riding deep snow and steep terrain aren’t going to hang with a stock sled.

If you are buying and selling sleds every year, then maybe throwing another $1000 isn’t worth rebuilding a new engine. I bought a 2012 thinking I would keep it, turns out I wasn’t happy with the performance as I thought I would be and opted for the 2013 because of the new addition Polaris made (thicker cylinder skirts, belt drive, and lighter weight). That being said, I knew I was going to mod it and hold on to it for at least 2yrs, I will probably put 1,000 miles on it or so within those years, I think I can get by with running this sled with RKT pistons and not have to worry about rebuilding it. I also get some added horse power by doing so.

As far as warranty, I only get 1 yr warranties so I’m not wasting money that I know I won’t use anyway. If a sled really goes down after 300miles, do you really want the same parts back in it as it had before…I would spend the coin and send it to one of many reputably builders we have on here and let them make it bullet proof.

$0.02
 
if you are a serious mountain rider, your sled won’t stay stock for long. No matter if it be clutching, exhaust or turbo…99% of the time the guys who are riding deep snow and steep terrain aren’t going to hang with a stock sled.

I disagree whole heartedly with is statement. I don't consider clutching to be a mod and most dealers don't either. And IMHO the sleds today are at the point that you CAN do extreme mountain riding without much mods at all. Now some or even most might mod just because thats half the fun for them but it isn't necessary to compete like it used to be. In fact more and more of the mods give less and less actual impact. They are more creature comforts, small refinements, or personal preferences than adding ten sled lengths on the hill.


If you are buying and selling sleds every year, then maybe throwing another $1000 isn’t worth rebuilding a new engine. I bought a 2012 thinking I would keep it, turns out I wasn’t happy with the performance as I thought I would be and opted for the 2013 because of the new addition Polaris made (thicker cylinder skirts, belt drive, and lighter weight). That being said, I knew I was going to mod it and hold on to it for at least 2yrs, I will probably put 1,000 miles on it or so within those years, I think I can get by with running this sled with RKT pistons and not have to worry about rebuilding it. I also get some added horse power by doing so.

As far as warranty, I only get 1 yr warranties so I’m not wasting money that I know I won’t use anyway. If a sled really goes down after 300miles, do you really want the same parts back in it as it had before…I would spend the coin and send it to one of many reputably builders we have on here and let them make it bullet proof.

$0.02

Now this I agree with. I have been selling/buying new the last three yrs but I would like to get a sled I can stick with for awhile. 3-4 yrs. I only ride 1-2x/yr out west and so the miles I put on are far less than many. Not saying it wouldn't be worth it, but trying to weigh all the variables.
 
So has the question been answered yet:

Can you add this kit to an 11, without running a fuel controller @ 3-7K'?

I am a modder as much as anyone but tired of running EFI controllers. On that note I am tired of waiting for my engine to be repaired.
 
So has the question been answered yet:

Can you add this kit to an 11, without running a fuel controller @ 3-7K'?

I am a modder as much as anyone but tired of running EFI controllers. On that note I am tired of waiting for my engine to be repaired.

I believe the 11's and 12's are fine, the 13's came leaner from the factory and need more fuel.

Call Kelsey
 
So has the question been answered yet:

Can you add this kit to an 11, without running a fuel controller @ 3-7K'?

I am a modder as much as anyone but tired of running EFI controllers. On that note I am tired of waiting for my engine to be repaired.
The 11 and 12 can run with the stock exhaust and no fuel controller.... The 2013 , it appears, requires a fuel controller
 
The 11 and 12 can run with the stock exhaust and no fuel controller.... The 2013 , it appears, requires a fuel controller

If I understand correctly the new drop ins have to run you domes for the heads?
 
Though I can only speak to our test results, which are all done at 9500'-13000', the RKTek Drop in kit is with a doubt the best bang for the buck...


Best bang for the buck?, some kits had more bang than RKT but were more money? Compared to what? Best compared to "others". This thread sounds like a paid endorsement. How about a list of all kits tested and the dyno number or something. Give us the test results, please.
 
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Best bang for the buck?, some kits had more bang than RKT but were more money? Compared to what? Best compared to "others". This thread sounds like a paid endorsement. How about a list of all kits tested and the dyno number or something. Give us the test results, please.


Damn right its "paid", I paid good money for RKT's kit...lol...I am finding more and more dealers and shops using these kits for sollution.

My local dealer in Iowa who did my install even said they were better then stock.

My butt dyno says they work, no hard feelings:face-icon-small-ton
 
Glad you're happy with your kit. I hope you get 5000 miles on it. I think anything is better than stock. Just wanted a full report.
 
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