Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Riveted Drive Shaft

T

T Rocket

Member
I really don't think there is going to be an epidemic but I live too far away (550 miles one way) to be broke down on our first ride. 6 3/16" stainless steel rivets. This should stengthen it quite of bit.

drive shaft 004.JPG
 
is that even through both pieces? I though folks were saing the overlap is only about 1/4 inch and that looks like it is quite a bit more inside than that?
 
That probably isnt a very good idea, when you drill holes thru a stressed part, it will crack thru the holes...I would not recommend anyone else do it...if you are worried about having a shaft failure..either limit your inital ride or two to areas easy to tow a broken sled from, or take the sled back to the dealer and PAY them to install the 11-12 steel driveshaft....For the OP..if I was you..I would keep your sled out of technical areas until you can replace that driveshaft..good luck...
 
Yes it is through both pieces, there are already 2 glue relief holes on opposing sides of the shaft through the aluminum. I removed the glue from those holes to make sure there was steel under it. I drilled those out to 3/16" and the other 4 sides of the shaft the exact distance. It looks like on the photos of the ones that have failed the glue is failing and the steel boss tries to back out of the aluminum, this should keep the steel boss in place.
 
I hope it works for you..you might want to order a spare shaft, and figure out the tools needed to change it in case the worst happens...and keep a close eye on it....
 
AK is making a good point... the rivets will start "stress risers" in the shaft.

The rivet process probably voided your warranty on the drivetrain.

A bit of time on these sleds before making these decisions.
 
Yes it is through both pieces, there are already 2 glue relief holes on opposing sides of the shaft through the aluminum. I removed the glue from those holes to make sure there was steel under it. I drilled those out to 3/16" and the other 4 sides of the shaft the exact distance. It looks like on the photos of the ones that have failed the glue is failing and the steel boss tries to back out of the aluminum, this should keep the steel boss in place.
I don't think they are first backing out by looking at the pics, looks to me like they spin inside the hex shaft first rounding it out, then back out of the shaft. I don't think what you have done will hurt anything especially if your shaft is one of the good ones. if it's one of the bad ones, something is better than nothing IMO....

could you tell how thick the inner piece was when you drilled it? my only question would be how long a rivet shank would be required to get all the way thru to be effective.
 
Last edited:
I will guarantee that it will void all warranty on that shaft. Plus if the glue is faulty those rivets will not hold.
my hope would be that they just do a recall and switch them all out like 'doo had to.
 
i dont think this was a very good idea. lose your warranty. if you are that worried about it just get the steel one put in right away. it may work for quite awhile, but those rivets may end up hiding the problem and give way someday.
 
Another option might be 1 small diameter hi-strength bolt with nylon lock nut, pushed into a Simpson SET epoxy filled hole. Too many holes drilled through the steel core, could weaken it too much.
 
I'm not worried at all about warranty. I can buy 2 shafts cheaper than what I can drive to my dealer and back. When I drive out west it will be to ride not for warranty work.

If Poo comes out with a fix replacement you will likely be out to lunch if altered.Just sayin as the 2012 shaft may be the fix
 
If Poo comes out with a fix replacement you will likely be out to lunch if altered.Just sayin as the 2012 shaft may be the fix

Doubt it. Different oem but in 08 I plug welded my Xp driveshaft and two others and when the update was released all of our driveshafts were replaced with no questions or issues.. I worked at a dealer and many times when a recall was issued only part of the recalled part was necessary to be sent back. Normally polaris would only want enough of the defective part sent back so the part could not be resold as a good replacement part. Just my .02.
 
looks like part of the stock driver cut off and pressed on the shaft for support, looks good
Yes it is a stock driver that was pressed on, cut down, then turned down on our lathe so we could press the steel ring on.
The customer was asking me what I thought I the idea and I told him we were already going to try it, so we used his shaft to try the first one.

I don't see any way that the stock shaft could spread with this setup on there.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top