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Riot trenching

The Alpha joined that ranking too , flat as a board . The mono rail is where it's at . Their not kidding about how the track walks the terrain . You won't believe it till you see it do what traditional twin rails can't do . Sorry for the derailing , Hope they really do dial the Riot in an make it do what the bikes do .
 
My buddy is an ambassador and said he's seen lots of these bent. They also updated it silently for 2021 apparently. I'll be filing a warranty claim or fabrication is on deck. It's carbon steel, I'll bud a chromolly one.
Please keep us posted. I believe mine did the same thing. Couldn't get the front of the rails and the back to ride evenly on the track. I'm curious to see how the warranty claim dept handles this. I don't wanna be out half the season waiting for parts

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They honored the warranty no problem. Don't yet know if the updated or same 2020 part was sent.
 
Please keep us posted. I believe mine did the same thing. Couldn't get the front of the rails and the back to ride evenly on the track. I'm curious to see how the warranty claim dept handles this. I don't wanna be out half the season waiting for parts
I don't know why I didn't notice this before , that's a fun track , light and very playable . I use to have one , it's an old Doo version cross country race track . Still have it , it's wrapped around a pair of tires for a KFX 700 .
I've noticed Yeti and now Timbersled are using Hawk tracks on certain models too .
Just looked it up 7,500.00 for that one that has a 16 year old Hawk track on it with a rebadged name . ? Put kold Litters in that track , it was designed for that style and than hang on . You'll have your dirt bike back on hard pack .
 
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they replaced it for free through my dealership. It was not updated in any way from the original part.
Looks like it could be made stronger. Any ideas how to beef it up? I was hoping the new one would be updated or made thicker it something to avoid this. I wasn't even that hard on my set up when it tweaked. I don't recall hitting anything or bottoming out or anything that should have done that. Ideas?
 
Can someone post a picture of the bent part? I can't seem to understand what your breaking to make the track run crooked. My riot has been through hell and looks like the lower front shock tab may crack at some point but I'm going to just weld on some extra plate this week to make it thicker. If you guys are bending the whole bottom rack side ways I can say you must have hit something well beyond what any kit should be able to take without damage. And if your bottoming bumpers aren't taking the hit your shocks must be over full from the factory. My rear was over full and hydro locked before the rubber hit.
 
It slowly looked cracked at the shock mount arm and then I noticed that my anti stab kit wouldn't run in the lugs due to the sideways skew

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I'm getting senile. I forgot you posted those on the previous page last month.
It looks like the problem is that lower shock carrier is too stiff and made of welded cross bars where every other skid is made of bolted single bars the can flex when they take a sideways hit and then flex back to let the rails be parallel again. Can it be straightened out in a vice? or better yet a trailer hitch and pry bar.... Nothing is cracked?
 
It's stretched... The cross bar is longer than it used to be. Not making it straight again. We had it in a body vice and plate steel and the tig ready but it's just not going to compress back to stock. It's carbon steel... Should be chromolly.
 
Can someone post a picture of the bent part? I can't seem to understand what your breaking to make the track run crooked. My riot has been through hell and looks like the lower front shock tab may crack at some point but I'm going to just weld on some extra plate this week to make it thicker. If you guys are bending the whole bottom rack side ways I can say you must have hit something well beyond what any kit should be able to take without damage. And if your bottoming bumpers aren't taking the hit your shocks must be over full from the factory. My rear was over full and hydro locked before the rubber hit.
Sorry, prolly a dumb question but how do you check the shocks to see if they're overfilled? Pull the spring off and compress? I have the qs3 btw
 
that's not possible. There is no such thing as overfilled. The shock is completely full of fluid with a rubber bladder filled with nitrogen as an expansion area for the secondary valving stack. I suppose if you didn't put the 10psi into the bladder before bleeding the shock with fluid it could bed a touch overfilled... but even so, once there's 150psi of nitrogen in there it still wouldn't hydrolock. The piston would just have to process more fluid than the blow off valve (adjuster) to the bladder in the reservoir. so you would just have a steeper dampening curve.
 
My base model shocks have a piston. No Bladder. I don't know what the qs3 uses. If piston isn't in the correct position when filled it won't allow expansion for oil when the shaft moves into the shock body. Bladders are almost full proof. Way easier. To test for full travel just take off the springs and stroke away. If there is a bottoming rubber on the shock it's going to be hard to compress it but if you put the shock back on the skid without a spring you should be sure you can get it to touch the rubber on the rails.
 
Na dude. Sorry, not how it works. Shocks are to be 100 percent full of fluid. I've rebuilt and revalve hundreds.
 
Yes inside that's how it works. But you can't overfill the oil. They have to be full without any air at all. a single air bubble will cause foaming and fade in the shock oil. The piston passes the oil through the shim stack... it goes one side to the other. There is no air gap left for the oil to go into or anything of that nature.
 
No it will not. The fluid will pass through the piston. There are 2 circuits that work in tandem. If the bladder was full of rocks the fluid would just all pass through the piston.
 
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