Got any pics?
Rider Forward Pro RMK
- Thread starter Titanium 375
- Start date
Got any pics?
As requested here's some pics!
Here's also a shopping list.
4x 90mm bolt M8 (I took whatever i could find)
4x distances 27mm (I made them from a plastic scrap block but alot of washers would do)
2x M10 ball joints
1x M10 stainless threaded rod
1x 1/4" steel plate -for the steering post stop
Its very simple, just put the post on the frontside of the pyramid! On my sled all the electrical, throttle cable and brake hose actually fits better then in the stock position!
I will have to cut the hood about 1/2" and some from the airbox (underside hood) and seal that up.
I will make new post mounts (with distances) of alu with bronze bushings as soon as my CNC mill is up and running. The Polaris plastic ones suck, they wear out in seconds and one of mine has broken in two pieces.
Here's also a shopping list.
4x 90mm bolt M8 (I took whatever i could find)
4x distances 27mm (I made them from a plastic scrap block but alot of washers would do)
2x M10 ball joints
1x M10 stainless threaded rod
1x 1/4" steel plate -for the steering post stop
Its very simple, just put the post on the frontside of the pyramid! On my sled all the electrical, throttle cable and brake hose actually fits better then in the stock position!
I will have to cut the hood about 1/2" and some from the airbox (underside hood) and seal that up.
I will make new post mounts (with distances) of alu with bronze bushings as soon as my CNC mill is up and running. The Polaris plastic ones suck, they wear out in seconds and one of mine has broken in two pieces.
From the Pic's it looks like you have the Rush style rear over structure and the non-verticle steering post. The conversion looks like it would be a bit more complicated with the vertical post and the RMK style over structure due to the clearances and compound curves.
I do indeed have the horizontal post (144" rmk), but i think the same concept would work on the vertical style as well! (With even less hood clearance issues due to the vertical nature of the... well... vertical post
)But you could be totally right and i will look into this!
The benefits are however, in my opinion, worth all the effort it takes!
G
geo
Well-known member
Getting your toes further forward on a downhill turn is a good benefit. Every inch is noticeable. A little plastic trimming and foot plate modification gets you some you may not have noticed was there.
Don't know about post forward though. I reduced bar swing to make things a little more comfortable for me.
Don't know about post forward though. I reduced bar swing to make things a little more comfortable for me.
I can post a pic when I get home tonight.
LoudHandle's Steering ratio mod (pic)
I do not know how Geo accomplished his mod but this is what I cam up with.
Be aware that the bar force (input) will increase because it is no longer a one to one ratio. Roughly half again as much input force as stock (140% mathematically at least). So if you happen to be upper body strength challenged with it stock, this is not for you. FWIW
This is a poor quality file photo that I sent Dan at Alternative Impact, to support my suggestion that in the future he provide his Ti Steering parts with the optional hole for this. On the stock and ALT's current design the rod end lands in the lightening slot on the top arm of the intermediate steering shaft (Front right corner of the bulkhead).
There are two easy ways to fix this; if you are not sure you are going to like the mod I would suggest tack welding a 10mm washer top and bottom 1" in from the current hole, to prevent the rod end from sliding around in the slot.
The more permanent solution is shortening the upper arm by taking 1" out and welding it back together and placing the rod in in the original hole that is now located 1" further in. The existing rod end sits 3 1/2" from shaft center line, after the mod it will sit 2 1/2" from shaft centerline. One should also adjust the steering post steering stops to coincide with the reduced amount of turn needed to prevent any potential damage from occurring.
Hopefully that is clear enough, if not, I can take better pics. Or even offer an intermediate steering shaft exchange, as I have a few laying around as I went with ALT's TI pieces for my builds.
I do not know how Geo accomplished his mod but this is what I cam up with.
Be aware that the bar force (input) will increase because it is no longer a one to one ratio. Roughly half again as much input force as stock (140% mathematically at least). So if you happen to be upper body strength challenged with it stock, this is not for you. FWIW
This is a poor quality file photo that I sent Dan at Alternative Impact, to support my suggestion that in the future he provide his Ti Steering parts with the optional hole for this. On the stock and ALT's current design the rod end lands in the lightening slot on the top arm of the intermediate steering shaft (Front right corner of the bulkhead).
There are two easy ways to fix this; if you are not sure you are going to like the mod I would suggest tack welding a 10mm washer top and bottom 1" in from the current hole, to prevent the rod end from sliding around in the slot.
The more permanent solution is shortening the upper arm by taking 1" out and welding it back together and placing the rod in in the original hole that is now located 1" further in. The existing rod end sits 3 1/2" from shaft center line, after the mod it will sit 2 1/2" from shaft centerline. One should also adjust the steering post steering stops to coincide with the reduced amount of turn needed to prevent any potential damage from occurring.
Hopefully that is clear enough, if not, I can take better pics. Or even offer an intermediate steering shaft exchange, as I have a few laying around as I went with ALT's TI pieces for my builds.
G
geo
Well-known member
Looks good LH.
If you made a stepped washer for the slot to place on the underside,,, that would be the "kit".
Being anal I also dabbed some valve grinding compound under the top washer for some extra bite.
4yrs. and still tight.
I noticed little difference in steering effort but I believe that is suspention set-up anyway.
If you made a stepped washer for the slot to place on the underside,,, that would be the "kit".
Being anal I also dabbed some valve grinding compound under the top washer for some extra bite.
4yrs. and still tight.
I noticed little difference in steering effort but I believe that is suspention set-up anyway.
Did the post forward on the pro rmk, vertical post, today and it was almost as easy as the horizontal!
Some pics of what we butchered together, thou i would perhaps (at least) change the wood for a steel plate and the copper tube for some thick wall steel tubing but that's up to you...
We made the spacers for this:
20mm on the lower
35mm on the upper
It rendered in about 2 1/2-3" forward but if you file off the lower mounts you could move it less and use a smaller spacer! (or no lower spacer)
again a pretty simple and cheap mod! As expected there will be less hood clearance issues on this version, but still some cutting to do!
Some pics of what we butchered together, thou i would perhaps (at least) change the wood for a steel plate and the copper tube for some thick wall steel tubing but that's up to you...
We made the spacers for this:
20mm on the lower
35mm on the upper
It rendered in about 2 1/2-3" forward but if you file off the lower mounts you could move it less and use a smaller spacer! (or no lower spacer)
again a pretty simple and cheap mod! As expected there will be less hood clearance issues on this version, but still some cutting to do!
will also do the ratio mod later on with the addition of notching the spindles (or make new) to get more ski turn angle!
then you get the chance of turning down out of a tight sidehill situation instead of having to intentionally panel out...
then you get the chance of turning down out of a tight sidehill situation instead of having to intentionally panel out...
Any new news on this, I,m also looking at the post forward mod? The Pro will not hook wot aggressive bottom turns like my Mod sled with forward post, I feel I cannot get enough ski pressure to the inside ski in stock form.Also notice carving your hands are too close to your waist. Im all for moving forward..
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does this forward post mod lower the bars a bit?Did the post forward on the pro rmk, vertical post, today and it was almost as easy as the horizontal!
Some pics of what we butchered together, thou i would perhaps (at least) change the wood for a steel plate and the copper tube for some thick wall steel tubing but that's up to you...
We made the spacers for this:
20mm on the lower
35mm on the upper
It rendered in about 2 1/2-3" forward but if you file off the lower mounts you could move it less and use a smaller spacer! (or no lower spacer)
again a pretty simple and cheap mod! As expected there will be less hood clearance issues on this version, but still some cutting to do!
It actually raises the bars a bit.. not noticeable but in theory (and if you measure carefully).
If you want lower bars for, rider comfort, you would still need to change them! However since you move the center of mass you can get away with higher bars then you normally would!
Anything ever happen with these kits?
When going from one of my IQR's to my pro it always feels like the bars are in my lap and skis are way out in front of me. Like feeling like I am on top of the skis..
Looked at modding it forward myself and thought "I wish someone just made a kit" and here I am...
When going from one of my IQR's to my pro it always feels like the bars are in my lap and skis are way out in front of me. Like feeling like I am on top of the skis..
Looked at modding it forward myself and thought "I wish someone just made a kit" and here I am...
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