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I am going on about 20 hours without any sleep right now so I hope this makes a little sense. If you look at a gearing chart with everything being equal as far as clutching and gearing when you go from 8 tooth drivers to 7 tooth drivers you loose about 10 mph on average.
Now lets see how this applies to the sled. You have a sensor that is picking up a magnetic pulse from the track shaft. From the factory your speedo is programed for 8 tooth drivers which come standard on the Proclimb. So a certain amount of revolutions of that shaft equals a mile. For every revolution of that shaft the sensor is picking up a pulse or sensing that magnetic tick on the track shaft and sending it to the speedo and the speedo is converting it into mph which you see displayed.
From factory they have drivers that have 8 teeth spaced 3" apart propelling the track. Now that driver has to be so big to have 8 teeth on it spaced 3" apart. Now if you put drivers on that same track shaft that have 7 teeth and are spaced 3" apart the driver is going to be smaller. So the track shaft is spinning the same speed as if it still had the 8 tooth drivers on it, and that is what you would be seeing on your speedometer. But you have the 7 tooth drivers on that same shaft with a smaller diameter and it is spinning the track at a lesser rate. You still think you are going the same speed, because your speedo tells you that you are. In all reality you are going 10 mph slower than what your speedometer is telling you at top end. It will be a lesser amount of difference at lower speeds than higher speeds. Same concept as putting smaller or bigger tires on your truck, your speedometer will be off.
Think about this, if you like how the 19/50 performs on your new sled and you put a 3" track on it with seven tooth drivers you would have to put 21/49 gearing in it to keep the same top end speed as you had with 19/50. The 21/49 would still be slower by about 1 mph over the 19/50. The lower the gearing you go with the lower you clutch temps will be, because they don't have to work as hard to spin the track. Cat's easy fix for a bad clutch problem and overheating.
All of my figures might not be 100% correct, but I think they are very close. If you go with the 7 tooth drivers you should make a gearing change to accommodate for the smaller circumference of the 7 tooth driver.
Mbms, What gearing did you have on the 3"? I have 20/49 hyvo team on order for a couple weeks now and still won't get them for a week or two since they are on backorder still.
So when your dealer puts the 3" on for the exchange program do they put the 7 tooth drivers on?
Just a quick question in gearing. 19/50 gearing 7 tooth drivers the same as 18/50 gearing with 8 tooth drivers? I have a x3 with 8 tooth drivers and thinking I need to drop a gear to hold rpm.
I am going on about 20 hours without any sleep right now so I hope this makes a little sense. If you look at a gearing chart with everything being equal as far as clutching and gearing when you go from 8 tooth drivers to 7 tooth drivers you loose about 10 mph on average.
Now lets see how this applies to the sled. You have a sensor that is picking up a magnetic pulse from the track shaft. From the factory your speedo is programed for 8 tooth drivers which come standard on the Proclimb. So a certain amount of revolutions of that shaft equals a mile. For every revolution of that shaft the sensor is picking up a pulse or sensing that magnetic tick on the track shaft and sending it to the speedo and the speedo is converting it into mph which you see displayed.
From factory they have drivers that have 8 teeth spaced 3" apart propelling the track. Now that driver has to be so big to have 8 teeth on it spaced 3" apart. Now if you put drivers on that same track shaft that have 7 teeth and are spaced 3" apart the driver is going to be smaller. So the track shaft is spinning the same speed as if it still had the 8 tooth drivers on it, and that is what you would be seeing on your speedometer. But you have the 7 tooth drivers on that same shaft with a smaller diameter and it is spinning the track at a lesser rate. You still think you are going the same speed, because your speedo tells you that you are. In all reality you are going 10 mph slower than what your speedometer is telling you at top end. It will be a lesser amount of difference at lower speeds than higher speeds. Same concept as putting smaller or bigger tires on your truck, your speedometer will be off.
Think about this, if you like how the 19/50 performs on your new sled and you put a 3" track on it with seven tooth drivers you would have to put 21/49 gearing in it to keep the same top end speed as you had with 19/50. The 21/49 would still be slower by about 1 mph over the 19/50. The lower the gearing you go with the lower you clutch temps will be, because they don't have to work as hard to spin the track. Cat's easy fix for a bad clutch problem and overheating.
All of my figures might not be 100% correct, but I think they are very close. If you go with the 7 tooth drivers you should make a gearing change to accommodate for the smaller circumference of the 7 tooth driver.
And the 3" PC easily out does the 2.6 PC. I have 2 days now on the 3" PC with the last day being really deep. Very impressed with this track so far