Reviews on the 3" Power Claw
- Thread starter Squawnk
- Start date
We've had a couple guys change out their tracks for the 3" and went riding back a few weeks ago (BC/Alberta). Haven't heard any complaints.
I rode mine for the first time today. Had a 2.6 sled to compare with. The snow wasn't the greatest, a bit set up. The main thing we noticed was traction. The 2.6 would spin easier and the motor seemed to rev faster into the sweet power making spot. With the 3" the increased traction it would load the motor harder and take a little longer to rev. I think the pluses and minuses of each track will change with snow conditions. I can hardly wait to get the 3" out in the deep.
You gotta clutch a little different with the 3" Cuz of the loading it pulls the motor down and grabs so much snow I lost mph going to the x3 got a little back re clutching but never did see my track speed totally return until I put on the slp stage 2. Even with the loss in track speed before the stage 2, if we had 2 sleds pulling the same rpm but one had a 3" it was no question witch sled would go further in the pow. Just more traction with the 3"
Got my 3" PC on the snow today with the 15. It's a bad azz track in pow. Not as good on trail. My buddy also has a 15 and it was a stronger runner when I had the 2.6 on mine. Both broken in the same. We did a few pulls next to each other today and switched and the result are clear. The 3" PC is a winner. Multiple sled length difference in a short pull. I had a temp gun with me too and the primary and secondary clutch sheave temps were 20-30deg cooler on my sled with the 3" and 7 tooths. I still could hit 70mph on the trail too. I'm keeping the 7 tooth on there. Track speed on my sled was 39-43mph in pow today and buddies 15 was 35-40mph. 11000ft in elevation.
Nice to know. Been looking into the 3" vs 2.6
So when your dealer puts the 3" on for the exchange program do they put the 7 tooth drivers on?
Dunno it was more cost effective to just sell the 2.6 over the exchange. I had to pay for the 7 tooths regardless. I actually put my 15 2.6 on my 14 and sold the one on my 14 for $500. I did the install and know the dealer will charge for labor. Its a pretty easy install. Easier than the m series. I'm running stocK 19/50 gearing.
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I am going on about 20 hours without any sleep right now so I hope this makes a little sense. If you look at a gearing chart with everything being equal as far as clutching and gearing when you go from 8 tooth drivers to 7 tooth drivers you loose about 10 mph on average.
Now lets see how this applies to the sled. You have a sensor that is picking up a magnetic pulse from the track shaft. From the factory your speedo is programed for 8 tooth drivers which come standard on the Proclimb. So a certain amount of revolutions of that shaft equals a mile. For every revolution of that shaft the sensor is picking up a pulse or sensing that magnetic tick on the track shaft and sending it to the speedo and the speedo is converting it into mph which you see displayed.
From factory they have drivers that have 8 teeth spaced 3" apart propelling the track. Now that driver has to be so big to have 8 teeth on it spaced 3" apart. Now if you put drivers on that same track shaft that have 7 teeth and are spaced 3" apart the driver is going to be smaller. So the track shaft is spinning the same speed as if it still had the 8 tooth drivers on it, and that is what you would be seeing on your speedometer. But you have the 7 tooth drivers on that same shaft with a smaller diameter and it is spinning the track at a lesser rate. You still think you are going the same speed, because your speedo tells you that you are. In all reality you are going 10 mph slower than what your speedometer is telling you at top end. It will be a lesser amount of difference at lower speeds than higher speeds. Same concept as putting smaller or bigger tires on your truck, your speedometer will be off.
Think about this, if you like how the 19/50 performs on your new sled and you put a 3" track on it with seven tooth drivers you would have to put 21/49 gearing in it to keep the same top end speed as you had with 19/50. The 21/49 would still be slower by about 1 mph over the 19/50. The lower the gearing you go with the lower you clutch temps will be, because they don't have to work as hard to spin the track. Cat's easy fix for a bad clutch problem and overheating.
All of my figures might not be 100% correct, but I think they are very close. If you go with the 7 tooth drivers you should make a gearing change to accommodate for the smaller circumference of the 7 tooth driver.
Now lets see how this applies to the sled. You have a sensor that is picking up a magnetic pulse from the track shaft. From the factory your speedo is programed for 8 tooth drivers which come standard on the Proclimb. So a certain amount of revolutions of that shaft equals a mile. For every revolution of that shaft the sensor is picking up a pulse or sensing that magnetic tick on the track shaft and sending it to the speedo and the speedo is converting it into mph which you see displayed.
From factory they have drivers that have 8 teeth spaced 3" apart propelling the track. Now that driver has to be so big to have 8 teeth on it spaced 3" apart. Now if you put drivers on that same track shaft that have 7 teeth and are spaced 3" apart the driver is going to be smaller. So the track shaft is spinning the same speed as if it still had the 8 tooth drivers on it, and that is what you would be seeing on your speedometer. But you have the 7 tooth drivers on that same shaft with a smaller diameter and it is spinning the track at a lesser rate. You still think you are going the same speed, because your speedo tells you that you are. In all reality you are going 10 mph slower than what your speedometer is telling you at top end. It will be a lesser amount of difference at lower speeds than higher speeds. Same concept as putting smaller or bigger tires on your truck, your speedometer will be off.
Think about this, if you like how the 19/50 performs on your new sled and you put a 3" track on it with seven tooth drivers you would have to put 21/49 gearing in it to keep the same top end speed as you had with 19/50. The 21/49 would still be slower by about 1 mph over the 19/50. The lower the gearing you go with the lower you clutch temps will be, because they don't have to work as hard to spin the track. Cat's easy fix for a bad clutch problem and overheating.
All of my figures might not be 100% correct, but I think they are very close. If you go with the 7 tooth drivers you should make a gearing change to accommodate for the smaller circumference of the 7 tooth driver.
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