REV stance change?

[wa skier]

I'll probably get flamed here for this but here goes. last winter I rode a cat M7 with stock suspension, slight riser bar and a few lightweight goodies on it. I couldn't believe the difference in handling that sled had versus mine. I felt like all I had to do to get it up on one ski was step a little harder on that side running board. I didn't have to jump from side to side on the cat like I do on my rev to boondock/sidehill/etc. I'm wondering if there's any changes I can make to my sled. front a-arm width? rear skid? etc to make mine handle better.

My sled is a 2004 summit rev 151 no riser, slydog skis, otherwise stock. Skis are all the way narrow on the foot thingie.

EDIT - forgot to mention that i've cut the swaybar out

 

[khaddon2110]

remove the swaybar and ditch the skis for something better

 

[Chubbydog]

The 1st thing you need to do is get a good set of skis, like Khaddon said. The 04 skis suck. I'd go with the Mods, or the USI Tripple threat's. Both work good on the Rev. The sway bar will make a big difference also, but be careful on the trail, as it get's a little tipsy. I took it out on all of my Revs. Also, try countersteering, and giveing it a little gas. It should come right over on ya!

 

[Teth-Air]

I'll probably get flamed here for this but here goes. last winter I rode a cat M7 with stock suspension, slight riser bar and a few lightweight goodies on it. I couldn't believe the difference in handling that sled had versus mine. I felt like all I had to do to get it up on one ski was step a little harder on that side running board. I didn't have to jump from side to side on the cat like I do on my rev to boondock/sidehill/etc. I'm wondering if there's any changes I can make to my sled. front a-arm width? rear skid? etc to make mine handle better.

My sled is a 2004 summit rev 151 no riser, slydog skis, otherwise stock. Skis are all the way narrow on the foot thingie.

EDIT - forgot to mention that i've cut the swaybar out

I wish I had this option on my 08 aswell but am trying an inside wheel kit to have it fall over easier. If you take a look at where your foot is in relation to the ski, you will see that it is well inside of the ski even if your foot is at the widest part of the running board. Taller bars will help. Also crank up the front skid shock and loosen the strap to lift the weight off the ski's.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

i have a very similar sled and rode an M7 a few times last year and this was my biggest complaint coming back to the rev, 2 wheel inside in the back, taller bars really make a good change as they make pulling it over super easy, and work on suspension geometry, the M's lay over like nothing i have ever seen. im also contemplating a drop bracket to get me a little closer to the M- style skid, im gonna park mine right next to my dads m7 and just look at the overall geometry to get a feal for it, i may take a picture or two aswell.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

just went outside to measure some things up, and i figured out why them M lays over really well, and why it sucks riding on the trail.

first off the M- versus the rev on the trail are so different, the M just wants to flip over where as the rev stays low and cruises even cornering in the washboards, now i know this isnt why we all ride so it doesnt matter, but it does explain some of the suspension dynamics a bit.

measuring on my RT, which is just a fat rev, so the suspension is almost identical, half the parts are the same. the front skid bolts are only about a half inch lower than the M, and thats because my limiter is sucked all the way in, but, the rear skid bolts are about 2-3 inches lower on the rev/rt versus the M, making it a lot lower to the ground

and the rear end of the tunnel on the 151 rt vs the 153 M is the M is about 3 inches taller, so again, your weight is up that much higher helping it fall over the running boards on the M also are angle up higher and the top of tunnel to board mesurement gets much thinner on the back of the M as the rev goes much more straight back and just ends versus angling up the the back of the tunnel on the M. so i beleive a drop bracket on the rev would make it a much closer style to the M chassis in handling, will have to wait to find out.

another small factor is the laydown motor in the M is leaning backwards, so your have another few pounds of your topend sitting back that much further.

and there is way more input and information than anyone here will care to process.

 

[wa skier]

so are the slydog skis not good on the rev? I felt that they changed the handling for the better over my stockers.

I've got the countersteer and gas it thing down pretty good but my sled is still in no way as nimble as the cat.

so ski dooin' it - now that you've got it figured out what's your suggestion? Is there anything I can change or is there anything you know of in the aftermarket that will make it ride more like I want it to?

 

[turboal]

one major item in lateral feel in between the cat and the rev is the 16 wide track on the doo versus the 15 wide on the cat . it is the main contribuitor to what you are feeling between the two .
the doo if all the bushings in the rear skid are good and the same for the a arms and ski bushings then the rear skid shocks on a sled with more than one year on them should have been rebuilt or you will have a harder time getting what you want out of your rev platform .

all things good the rev set up will turn with the light desired feel you seek . it is all about your riding style and size . there is a good deal of adjustability in the skids if all the components are not to worn .
finding a balance between the rear springs set at depending weather your 150 lbs or over 200lbs makes a huge difference in were you would start .
we tend to set the rear stiffer to off set the motor sucking the track up under you on a pull .

getting the front skid spring set with the correct pressure is again dependant on your weight . we usually run it about half stiff, on the trail you may hear it bottom out a tich , in the powder it is about correct there . if your agressive on the trail then crank it up a bit .

front shocks you set so that you actually teter on the front skid spring setting . is about were your feet are ya see .if you can achieve this you will find the rev a ton easier to ride . remmember as long as your suspension bushings arent worn LOL's
i mention the bushings as it is one of the largest effect changes we have seen on the rev chassi . the wear is a higher wear item than one would think . not far off by saying that by 2000 klms there getting pretty loose . there just plastic is why .

 

[diamonddave]

Sure is great to see you back Al

 

[Adrenaline Revolution]

Not sure if it's been mentioned yet but get Smitty's rear axle kit and set your aft wheels inside the skid.
I did and what a difference!

She lay's over just by thinking about it now ! (and I still have the sway bar in)

 

[wa skier]

Not sure if it's been mentioned yet but get Smitty's rear axle kit and set your aft wheels inside the skid.
I did and what a difference!

She lay's over just by thinking about it now ! (and I still have the sway bar in)

Oh really. I'll look into this.

Are there any negative effects of having only the two wheels inside the track?

 

[hmkrdr207]

how do you take the sway bar it self out with out cutting it?

 

[rotax]

Oh really. I'll look into this.

Are there any negative effects of having only the two wheels inside the track?

i believe in the 2wk helping but in my case, wasn't 'everything'.

going to a shorter track (159 to a 151, still 16 wide) made a huge difference for me.

but i think rider weight plays a large roll here as well..

but I do believe the 15 vs 16 also has a factor...I wish it was easier to 'test' or play with that idea...

 

[wa skier]

i took the swaybar out with a cutoff wheel. Just do it, you won't want it back in unless riding trails is your thing.

I just found out about the smitty drop brackets. Would the drop bracket along with the new axle be even more help?