Im putting a newer track on my 08 700 rmk. Just curios if there is any pointers out there to help ease the progress. It seems pretty easy but any pointers would be very welcome. My one main question i have is how do you get that drive shaft out??? And the other I think i have figured is what needs repaced while im there. And again any pointers would be helpful. THANKS
Replacing Track
- Thread starter sevenhundo
- Start date
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Vinnee
Well-known member
Track install
Much easier than what you would think..
Need a way to hold tunnel up by the rear bumper (works best)
1. Drop chain case fluid.
2. Remove can
Remove chain case cover
3. Back off chain tensioner all the way.
4. Remove upper and lower gear retaining bolts and washers
5. Support upper and lower gear equally as you remove both gears and chain.
(note) ! do not remove C-clip that retains bearings in the chain case. It is not necessary to remove the driveshaft.
6. Remove belt
7. Remove Driven clutch
8. Loosen track at the end of the rails
9. If air shock on the skid, remove air. If not, compress skid and hold compressed with rope ratchet strap or....
10. Remove four bolts holding the skid in.
11. Remove the skid
12. Remove speedometer cover and driveshaft bearing retaining nuts.
13. Push excess track up into the bulkhead as much as possible to give you room to get past the drive shaft drivers.
14. Remove drive shaft by matching the triangle bearing plate to the triangle hole in the tunnel on the left side of the sled.
15. Slide drive shaft right to left until the end of the shaft clears the chain case. You may have to give the drive shaft a wrap with a rubber mallet to pop it loose from the bearing in the chain case.
16. Remove track...
I think I got everything??
Reverse process....
Tips.....
Get your new track folded up into the bulkhead in such a way that allows the most room for the driveshaft to be reinstalled.
I have sprayed the drive shaft area of the track up in the bulkhead with windex allowing the drivers to more easily move around the track. Otherwise you have plastic and rubber meeting and they want to stick together making the drive shaft difficult to slide back in
When you reinstall the chain case drain plug "BE CAREFUL"!! Don't over tighten, it WILL strip easily!
Be prepared to install a new chain case gasket and/or make sure you clean it up very good and put a nice coat of gasket sealer on the lower 50% of the cover. These covers are notorious for leaks.
Install skid, work smarter not harder. By adjusting the tunnel height with the bumper you can get the skid bolt holes to line up relatively easy.
Have fun.
Much easier than what you would think..
Need a way to hold tunnel up by the rear bumper (works best)
1. Drop chain case fluid.
2. Remove can
Remove chain case cover
3. Back off chain tensioner all the way.
4. Remove upper and lower gear retaining bolts and washers
5. Support upper and lower gear equally as you remove both gears and chain.
(note) ! do not remove C-clip that retains bearings in the chain case. It is not necessary to remove the driveshaft.
6. Remove belt
7. Remove Driven clutch
8. Loosen track at the end of the rails
9. If air shock on the skid, remove air. If not, compress skid and hold compressed with rope ratchet strap or....
10. Remove four bolts holding the skid in.
11. Remove the skid
12. Remove speedometer cover and driveshaft bearing retaining nuts.
13. Push excess track up into the bulkhead as much as possible to give you room to get past the drive shaft drivers.
14. Remove drive shaft by matching the triangle bearing plate to the triangle hole in the tunnel on the left side of the sled.
15. Slide drive shaft right to left until the end of the shaft clears the chain case. You may have to give the drive shaft a wrap with a rubber mallet to pop it loose from the bearing in the chain case.
16. Remove track...
I think I got everything??
Reverse process....
Tips.....
Get your new track folded up into the bulkhead in such a way that allows the most room for the driveshaft to be reinstalled.
I have sprayed the drive shaft area of the track up in the bulkhead with windex allowing the drivers to more easily move around the track. Otherwise you have plastic and rubber meeting and they want to stick together making the drive shaft difficult to slide back in
When you reinstall the chain case drain plug "BE CAREFUL"!! Don't over tighten, it WILL strip easily!
Be prepared to install a new chain case gasket and/or make sure you clean it up very good and put a nice coat of gasket sealer on the lower 50% of the cover. These covers are notorious for leaks.
Install skid, work smarter not harder. By adjusting the tunnel height with the bumper you can get the skid bolt holes to line up relatively easy.
Have fun.
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DAM I love the step by step much appreciated. I figured it might be somewhat easy but the little things is what counts and im all about working smarter not harder.. Thanks for the reply
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volcano buster
Well-known member
1a) Unless there is a reason to have the belt on until step 6, I would take it off first while your hands are still clean.
10a) After the four bolts are taken out of the tunnel, I insert an 18" long 3/8" diameter rod through each pair of holes to suspend the track up in the tunnel out of the way.
11a) I lay two pieces of 1x2 (16" long) laterally across the inside of the track under the skid. This supports the skid up over the drive lugs so the skid will pull out easier. Also helps get the skid back in when reinstalling.
Otherwise, a great list.
Good info! Having an extra hand/friend to help is good. Wrestling with the rear skid is a pain by yourself. I like hanging the rear bumper from the ceiling if possible. I used a jack and it slipped off and fell on my head once. I had a nice bruise, LOL.
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Vinnee
Well-known member
No pressure, but when I was laid up with a back injury my wife swapped out her own track by herself.
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volcano buster
Well-known member
With one person, this helps a bunch when wrestling the skid in or out of the grabby track.
I love when chicks work on stuff they look so hot. Sorry but anyway did you have the front in the air also. Was going to work on it today but to dam hot
E
EricW
Well-known member
Remember when you were a kid and you would go sledding on the hill with one of those cheapo roll up blue plastic mats. Walmart has 'em for like $4. If you put one of those between the skid rails/hyfax and the track drive lugs when removing and replacing the skid it will go like butta. EW
Can someone reach up and get the wrench I thru into the ceiling..I cannot get the track loose enough to push the shaft to the side..What's the trick??
no trick himark, just patience required and some creative wiggling of the driveshaft. i lay my sled on the side tho, makes this job much easier!
in fact, thats how my polaris service manual says to do it.
btw... i have never taken the belt, or secondary off to swap the track on my 10' assault. plenty of room to get a wrench in there.
in fact, thats how my polaris service manual says to do it.
btw... i have never taken the belt, or secondary off to swap the track on my 10' assault. plenty of room to get a wrench in there.
Yup, I left the secondary on as well...Just got off the phone with a friend and he said the same...lay it on it's side..Thanks!! Will advise!
You guys are the "Sheeeit!!..put it on it's side and 30 seconds later it fell out!! 
time!
time!
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volcano buster
Well-known member
I haven't figured out how to roll it onto the other side and have it fall right back in though. That is where the fun starts.
It was a piece of cake doing it on the same side..I pushed it down into hole..pulled up into splines and had someone wiggle track and popped right in..Then layed back flat to bolt clutch side in..gonna put it back on it's side this time to put skid in..
gr8 point, even more patience required for the install.
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Vinnee
Well-known member
You guys are the "Sheeeit!!..put it on it's side and 30 seconds later it fell out!!
Nice Work! Cheers!
this may be a stupid question.. is everyone putting it on the right side or the left? or does it not really matter.
