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Recoil upgrade?

jsledder

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Is there anything that can be done to improve the recoil on these things? Yesterday I tried starting mine and the rope wouldn't pull back back in and it just doesn't feel "right". When it's really cold out these things (as you know) are a tank to pull over, am I stuck just rebuilding it with stock parts or is there something better?
 
is your recoil spring worn out or bent at all?

i would replace the coil spring and put in a nice aftermarket pull cord (like Amorcord) and should really help you. but your stuck with OEM for rebuilding it.
 
When it's really cold out these things (as you know) are a tank to pull over, am I stuck just rebuilding it with stock parts or is there something better?

Come try and start mine if you think yours is hard to start. Guidoxpress might let you start his in the morning too if you need to build up your strength.
 
Have you and g.e. done the decompression hole delete? if so, have you done it your self (with small screws and lots of red locktight), or sent your jugs to slp or like places?


Come try and start mine if you think yours is hard to start. Guidoxpress might let you start his in the morning too if you need to build up your strength.
 
Have you and g.e. done the decompression hole delete? if so, have you done it your self (with small screws and lots of red locktight), or sent your jugs to slp or like places?

975 big bore and 975 big bore turbo. Pretty sure Carl's did compression hole delete. It's sort of like trying to pull start your car.
 
975 big bore and 975 big bore turbo. Pretty sure Carl's did compression hole delete. It's sort of like trying to pull start your car.

you would think they did this. but they didnt...when i built my 975 motor this year, the holes were open

i seriously contimplated having SLP plug them $20/each...but figured i would hate my life considering what i heard...and i am damn glad i didnt, lol.

but i will plug the other 3 sleds for sure...the 900 and 900 turbo and then when i rebuild the 700 next summer, i will plug that one then...i put electric start on the 700, so isnt an issue pulling over
 
For the rope I use a Vectran V-12 single braid rope. It is used by boaters for rigging lines. The 5mm rope has strength of 4500 lbs and the 4mm has strength of 3500 lbs, which is close to the armorcord. The 5mm is slightly bigger in diameter than the stock rope. If you use the 5mm you need about 8ft and it will be tight in the housing. It will wrap it around the coil holder 4 times (takes about 6 feet). Once you get it in the housing there will be no extra room. Then use the extra 3 feet to get it to the pull handle. The 4mm is slightly smaller than the stock. I ended up going with 5mm. I put the 4mm on one sled and it just "looked" small.


Here is what one of the websites said about it

One of the lowest stretch, highest strength rigging lines we sell, with virtually no creep and excellent durability. Excellent abrasion resistance. Stays light even when wet because it does not absorb water. Can be downsized. Easy to splice and holds knots. A performance line with ultra low stretch and creep. Construction: 12-strand single braid. Core Fiber/Construction: 100% Vectran. Stretch: 0.5% at 15% of breaking strength.
  • Best Use: High-load, low-stretch applications. Backstays, checkstays and halyards on racing boats and megayachts where high strength, low stretch, light weight, and zero creep are required
  • Construction: 12-strand single braid
  • Core Fiber/Construction: 100% Vectran
  • Stretch: 0.5% at 15% of breaking strength

It costs about $1 per foot. You can get it from west marine but has to be ordered. Not sold in their stores and I could not find it at any of my local boat stores. I bought 50 ft on eBay last year for about $25. Changed all my sleds to the stuff. If you can not find it or need some soon let me know I think I have 10ft left I can send you....if I can find it.

By the way, just be careful when tying knots with this stuff. When they say it holds knots they are not kidding. Once the knots are in they are almost impossible to get out.
 
Guess I'll order the internals for it and just rebuild the darn thing all the way down to the spring so I know it's all in new condition.

Put the SLP rope in it after I bought it 2 seasons ago, still looks good.
 
I rebuilt my starter a couple of years ago and when pretty cold outside it retracts back in really slow since rebuilt with new parts. When engine is warm or it isn't really cold out then it will act like any other sled.
 
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