rebuild begins
- Thread starter CHIA_PET74
- Start date
I was told to get some crows feet and figure out the new torque.
So, I replaced exhaust gaskets and cylinder head/gaskets and started her up for 5 minutes or so yesterday and today. Was supposed to ride today, that's why I didn't replace everything(didn't think I'd get it all done). Anyways decided to replace pistons and took y pipe off and there's a small pool of oil in each cylinder right where they enter the y pipe. Is this normal?
So, I replaced exhaust gaskets and cylinder head/gaskets and started her up for 5 minutes or so yesterday and today. Was supposed to ride today, that's why I didn't replace everything(didn't think I'd get it all done). Anyways decided to replace pistons and took y pipe off and there's a small pool of oil in each cylinder right where they enter the y pipe. Is this normal?
Yea, that doesn't sound unusual. If your set up is rich it may just be residual un burned fuel and oil.
Hereis the wrench I was speaking of.
http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/product/MOTION-PRO-TORQUE-WRENCH-ADAPTER/?id=104344
http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/product/MOTION-PRO-TORQUE-WRENCH-ADAPTER/?id=104344
2 of the chips on the pto reed have a tiny gap. Problem? I'll look into posting some pics tomorrow.
cylinders are off, peeling gaskets off cylinder base then pull the pistons.
Pistons pulled, that was a little scary on the first one, but now that I've done it, no big deal. Rebuild and put it back together tonight/tomorrow.
Pistons pulled, that was a little scary on the first one, but now that I've done it, no big deal. Rebuild and put it back together tonight/tomorrow.
Well the job is done. Glad I've done it, learned a lot. Gonna play with the carbs/air screw now, seems like the idle and air mixture is off. Getting some backfires and starting isn't as easy as it should be. See what happens tomorrow, I'm beat from today.
They're not really chipped, they're just not flush with the plastic piece.
X
X2Freeride
Well-known member
Are they burned back?
no, just not flush, there is a tiny gap between the plastic and the reed. TINY
took her out and she ran great, except for a serious low end bog. Gonna clean the carbs.
What jets and what altitude are you running?
How many miles on the clutches, if I missed this info?
Skip the boost bottle, it will run better jetted right without it and be more consistant.
1371G needles in #3
38 pilots
mains 2 sizes leaner than what Polaris recommends for a 2000 700 SKS
for your elevation.
It would be best to run the carb vent lines into nipples placed above their respective carb in the airbox to "feel" the pulse of the motor for a more consistant fuel flow and pressure "felt" in the bowls.
Keep an eye on the intake boots where the oil lines go in, the can start to rip.
How many miles on the clutches, if I missed this info?
Skip the boost bottle, it will run better jetted right without it and be more consistant.
1371G needles in #3
38 pilots
mains 2 sizes leaner than what Polaris recommends for a 2000 700 SKS
for your elevation.
It would be best to run the carb vent lines into nipples placed above their respective carb in the airbox to "feel" the pulse of the motor for a more consistant fuel flow and pressure "felt" in the bowls.
Keep an eye on the intake boots where the oil lines go in, the can start to rip.
I've got my jets set up exactly how you suggested. I was at 9k, probably around 55 - 60 degrees. I had to feather the throttle and then it just took off. But if I was kind of heading uphill I was screwed. I'm more than sure the clutches need some TLC, that's the next step in the learning process I guess.
I'll look into some nipples. Should I fill the empty holes in the air box where the ACCS was with foam? The exhaust line runs into one of the screw holes, I put foam in the big hole where the ACCS was, but the other hole is open.
Also need to play around with the air screws.
I would love to find a bolt in skid from a Pro! Is that an option?
I'll look into some nipples. Should I fill the empty holes in the air box where the ACCS was with foam? The exhaust line runs into one of the screw holes, I put foam in the big hole where the ACCS was, but the other hole is open.
Also need to play around with the air screws.
I would love to find a bolt in skid from a Pro! Is that an option?
S
suitcase
Well-known member
I would think you could make it work, you would need to take some measurements off of a pro. From the drive shaft to the front mounting bolt, and from the front bolt to the rear mounting bolt so you can match it on your tunnel.
I would have to say that it would not work as good on your chassis as it does on the pro. But it would be a ton better than the old skid, and a lot cheaper than any other skid. I have seen them in the swap meet but im always a day late.
X
X2Freeride
Well-known member
I have to say I don't agree, The pro skid, while rare is way to far and inbetween for you to even bother with on a Gen 2 chassis. If your going to go to a different skid go to a older HOLZ skid or an edge skid that has been PROVEN to work in your chassis. To my knowledge NO ONE has put a pro skid in an older chassis let alone a Gen 2 chassis.
A pro coil over skid is almost identical to an early HOLZ coil over skid but still no measurements have ever been confirmed.Your going to have to do a lot or work to get it in the sled. Lots of hole drilling and real bracket moving. Even moving in PRO skid into a DRAGON isn't that easy. Dont waste your time on it, go to something you know works.
A pro coil over skid is almost identical to an early HOLZ coil over skid but still no measurements have ever been confirmed.Your going to have to do a lot or work to get it in the sled. Lots of hole drilling and real bracket moving. Even moving in PRO skid into a DRAGON isn't that easy. Dont waste your time on it, go to something you know works.
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I am hoping to get a VanAmberg tunnel and bulkhead in July, would that make any difference? At this point I'm leaning towards dropping the engine, skid into the new tunnel and then saving for a newer chassis and I'll drop an engine in it or rebuild a blown one. I made the mistake of riding one of the newer ones and have seen the light.
The pro suspension is much narrower then the gen 2 or edge
Anything is possible though, its just a matter of money and time. Like stated before you could save yourself a lot of time and headache by doing the holz or edge suspension. Or even a crazy mountain extreme skid will work if you can find one.
Anything is possible though, its just a matter of money and time. Like stated before you could save yourself a lot of time and headache by doing the holz or edge suspension. Or even a crazy mountain extreme skid will work if you can find one.
Easy is good.
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