Rear tunnel side reinforcement to plate rivets
- Thread starter Turblue
- Start date
Those rivets are the self piercing style (No hole needed), from memory the hole ends up slightly larger than 3/16" after removal. I grind the unseen side flush and then punch the rest out with a punch on the ground side and a anvil with a hole in it on the visible side to minimize the upsetting of the aluminum. As the buggers really grab well. Even then occasionally some straightening is required.
As far as the hard chassis pop rivets, if you punch out the remaining mandrel from the head side. Then drill the head off with a sharp 3/16" drill bit they are easy to deal with. If you do not knock the mandrel back they are a bugger because the mandrel is harder than a drill bit.
Hope you find this helpful. I've never wrapped anything so the rest of your questions will need to be fielded by others.
As far as the hard chassis pop rivets, if you punch out the remaining mandrel from the head side. Then drill the head off with a sharp 3/16" drill bit they are easy to deal with. If you do not knock the mandrel back they are a bugger because the mandrel is harder than a drill bit.
Hope you find this helpful. I've never wrapped anything so the rest of your questions will need to be fielded by others.
H
hoov165x
Well-known member
Agreed.
I don't recommend you remove the plate/rivets for their wrap.
You would not want to put the plate back on over the vinyl either as you would not want that compressing over time and allowing the plate to loosen.
If you are careful and lay out the wrap...use positioning fluid and cut the wrap where needed to lay down around the "obstacles"... the thing looks awesome....but takes time.
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You would not want to put the plate back on over the vinyl either as you would not want that compressing over time and allowing the plate to loosen.
If you are careful and lay out the wrap...use positioning fluid and cut the wrap where needed to lay down around the "obstacles"... the thing looks awesome....but takes time.
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Wrap right over all that stuff. If you have a good quality wrap with the clear layminate overlay you can take a propane torch and put the flame directly on the wrap material and you can get it sucked down tight around all the rivits. First push down firmly with your thumb, then quickly hit it with the flame and it will shrink down tight. They key is not to have air behind it when you hit it with the flame. Maybe try it with a piece of scrap material and get a feel for it.
The torch also works to remve scuff marks from boots.
Oh yeah, you can get it down tight around those brackets but you will need some application tools to get that area looking good. Wraps are cool but they can take some time installing if you want a super clean install. Eric
The torch also works to remve scuff marks from boots.
Oh yeah, you can get it down tight around those brackets but you will need some application tools to get that area looking good. Wraps are cool but they can take some time installing if you want a super clean install. Eric
Good post SRX.
I use a good heat gun for the same results... cut it in difficult areas and use adhesion promoter in the tight areas.
From an older thread.
I like to use this around the areas that will be stretched down or heated....The pen thingy is pretty cool way to dispense it.
I use a good heat gun for the same results... cut it in difficult areas and use adhesion promoter in the tight areas.
From an older thread.
I like to use this around the areas that will be stretched down or heated....The pen thingy is pretty cool way to dispense it.
IMO...Wrapping inside the tunnel... besides a heavy cleaning with a strong degreaser like Super Clean... there will be a lot of surface oil and dirt embedded into the aluminum.
I would use 3M Wrap Primer (3M #94) and apply it to at least a 1" border around all the vinyl... if not the whole piece of aluminum.
That vinyl will take a lot of abuse... best to have it stick really well.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Primer-Pint-Wrapping-Application/dp/B0088P1LNY
http://www.amazon.com/Primer-94-Dauber-Applicator-Bottle/dp/B0093MRGA8
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/120977415877
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/ESm6szzkEc8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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I like to use application fluid when putting the the wrap on to get it right the first time.
http://rapidtac.com/rapidtac.html
After degreasing/washing/cleaning/ and prepping the areas to be wrapped... and putting down the primer...then the fluid over that.
<iframe width="960" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/XsoYxC72DM0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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http://rapidtac.com/rapidtac.html
After degreasing/washing/cleaning/ and prepping the areas to be wrapped... and putting down the primer...then the fluid over that.
<iframe width="960" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/XsoYxC72DM0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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Thanks for the info. I was just curious on the size of the holes is all. Done a fair bit of sled builds. I was planning on using hammer rivets to replace it, but not worth it for the issues that may arise with vinyl compression. Although once the hammer rivets are installed they are pretty tight.
