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Rear Suspension Baseline Photo's

having it loose also allows it to get up on the snow easier. We screwed around lots with M-10 suspensions and found with a soft front spring it would get up on top of the snow quicker but it also does what you mention Teth. Nothing is free is it.
 
Okay here are the pictures. I have now been able to drop my rear springs to 2 now and tighten the front skid spring to about 85-90% to make the sled feel lighter in the front end.

Merry Christmas!

Don't mean to sound dumb here, but what did you move except the front skid mount down? Is that all you did?

HAPPY NEW YEAR AND MAY THE NEW YEAR BE FULL OF SNOW!
 
I am confussed why you would have the midddle shock loose? This would be okay for climbing but when coming down a hill, all the weight colapses this shock and the ski's take the weight. It makes it difficult to roll the sled side to side for when you want to pull a hook and pull back up the hill. I also don't understand how it helps side hilling? With the middle shock tight, the ski's have less pressure and it's easier to hold the line.

a stiffer front shock in the skid will trench more, but will make the sled easier to carve around (less ski pressure), but it also make the skid transfer harder as it "pushes" up the front the of the sled under acceleration.

a softer setting in the front lets the skid climb up on the snow easier and keeps the skis down when climbing - but can make the sled steering very heavy if given too little pressure.

I believe the best setup comes in the form of a mutli spring front coil with soft and heavy springs stacked - a few inches of soft spring allows it to get up on top, but the stiffer second spring keeps things from sacking out too much (a front float might also be the ticket here). running the limiters loose also is best for deep snow as it gives you full suspension travel in the front. Don't forget how the rear shock plays into this too. Poor valving (factory) can allow too much or too little transfer and if the rebound is too fast can buck you, or if to slow it won't return fast enough for the next bump. i think the stock valving is probably on weak side for compression too (bottoming and too much transfer).

The holz kit that just changes the stock shocks is good start, but it's pretty pricey at $850. it has rebound and compression adjustablility which can help dial the right ride.

i already find the XP pushes in the corners, so if you are gonna lower the front shock, the multi spring stack is almost a must. Also - you might have a wheelie monster on your hands if you run the front spring too stiff!
 
What is the best stock setup in your thoughts, have a 09 X 154, front seems real heavy, the only thing I have done to it so far is lower the front skid 1 hole(have not ridden it yet), what should set my spring at heavy or soft, I do alot of climbing, and boondocking, I weigh 180# thanks for the help
 
Update, the ride with the front of the skid mounted down 7/8" was totally different than stock. I had too much limiter strap with this change and the sled was hard to handle on the hills. I am reeling it in for this weekends ride and I expect it to be much better. Definately it carved way better. The downside will be that if I have to tighten the limiter too much, I feel it will be back to the original handling.
 
What is the best stock setup in your thoughts, have a 09 X 154, front seems real heavy, the only thing I have done to it so far is lower the front skid 1 hole(have not ridden it yet), what should set my spring at heavy or soft, I do alot of climbing, and boondocking, I weigh 180# thanks for the help

Are you talking about limiter strap hole or suspension mounting hole?


Front skid shock spring tightened up all the way with the ski springs loose. Or with the front suspension dropped, front skid spring at 70% and limiter strap tightened 1 or 2 from loosest setting. Rear at #3, 4 if you need more ski pressure in climbs.
I'm same weight.
 
Mine works best if I keep things more or less balanced front to back (skid). Front softer than back makes carving suck. Front tighter trenches and wheelies.

I tend to tighten the front spring if the snow is harder. Like springtime. because then I don't care about trenching but I really need to be lighter on the skis.

Jeb
 
Why would dropping the mounting point be any different than just letting the limiter strap out?
 
Dropping the front mount 7/8" should put the front of the skid a fair amount lower than with the stock mounting location and loose limiter straps.
 
I was reading through this thread and decided to go out to the garage and look at my settings - WTF the right side limiter strap is missing?? Could the shop have forgotten to put this back on when they did the drive axle replacement?
 
I was reading through this thread and decided to go out to the garage and look at my settings - WTF the right side limiter strap is missing?? Could the shop have forgotten to put this back on when they did the drive axle replacement?

Yes, you should give them he11.
Kidding, the XP's are single straps.
 
Revived thread

Lets revive this now and get some feedback from others. I am very happy to find out the BRP is going with a longer shock in the front of the rear suspension (skid) for 2010. Although dropping the swing arm mount was not my idea, this kinda makes me think we're on the right track.

I am back to stock center position on the limiter strap and a small shock adjustment is all it takes to change from trail to alpine. for trail the ski shocks go to 3-4 and 1-2 in the powder. For the front skid shock, I run 70-80% tightened.

Rear springs at 5 to limit weight transfer.

Really enjoying this set-up
 
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