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Real weight savers for the Pro?

A

ak

Well-known member
Where has everybody lost weight on the pro? How light can you make one? tryed the search thing and didnt find much info.
 
Not a whole lot to lose easily but,
Switch to Bud Light/Miller Lite :face-icon-small-win.

Remove hood foam,windshield
Wheels & scratcher's(if you're only riding pow)
HPS Can if you're not worried about warranty issues.
 
A Arms, Can, Timbersled skid, CF hood (FTX) with headlight delte, Floats or Zbroz with Ti springs, delete foam underhood, Skinz (SPG) lightweight seat, Ti bolts,

I think you could get it down to about 405 lbs dry for a reasonable number... but it already is an excellent machine as delivered from the factory.

IMO, the old paradigm of needing to "mod out" a sled to make it work well

Better to minimize riding weight... snow and Ice gain... tunnel side vinyl, Better Boards, de-burr/pow coat the the skid,
 
Do they make a titanium spring for the rear shock? I read on here some where that the stock walker evans on the front, weigh the same as foxfloats.

Who makes lightweight stock length A arms for the pro? And what kind of weight savings is there?
 
I'm sure that RCS makes a Ti spring for the rear... I dont think there is much weight to be saved in the spring though.
 
I'm sure that RCS makes a Ti spring for the rear... I dont think there is much weight to be saved in the spring though.

For a spring that size you'd save about a pound - hardly worth the cost IMHO. Also you list Z Bros with Ti springs as a weight savings - not possible! They weigh 6 lbs over stock so no way will you even come close to getting those 6 lbs back with Ti springs even on all shocks! As for the stock shocks being the same as Fox air shocks - true for the heaviest Evol X but the Floats and Evol R's are lighter. The most weight savings can be had by doing the cf hood and headlight delete that you already mentioned but I have a problem with losing the venting that the stock hood has. Would be a lot better to have a cf hood with vents and those lightweight lights!

Have FUN!

G MAN
 
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For a spring that size you'd save about a pound - hardly worth the cost IMHO. Also you list Z Bros with Ti springs as a weight savings - not possible! They weigh 6 lbs over stock so no way will you even come close to getting those 6 lbs back with Ti springs even on all shocks! As for the stock shocks being the same as Fox air shocks - true for the heaviest Evol X but the Floats and Evol R's are lighter. The most weight savings can be had by doing the cf hood and headlight delete that you already mentioned but I have a problem with losing the venting that the stock hood has. Would be a lot better to have a cf hood with vents and those lightweight lights!

Have FUN!

G MAN


if you carb it you could loose alot of weight
 
For a spring that size you'd save about a pound - hardly worth the cost IMHO. Also you list Z Bros with Ti springs as a weight savings - not possible! They weigh 6 lbs over stock so no way will you even come close to getting those 6 lbs back with Ti springs even on all shocks! As for the stock shocks being the same as Fox air shocks - true for the heaviest Evol X but the Floats and Evol R's are lighter. The most weight savings can be had by doing the cf hood and headlight delete that you already mentioned but I have a problem with losing the venting that the stock hood has. Would be a lot better to have a cf hood with vents and those lightweight lights!

Have FUN!

G MAN


then put vents in the CF hood.... ? its not very hard.
 
GMan - the stock shocks are just under 4 lbs. The Exit X1's on my sled are 6.5-6.7 lbs each. But, I would say that if you want the sled light to stay with the stock shocks.

Chris Burandt told me that he got the Pro down to around 410 (dry). I think he did the carbon rails and a few other lightweight mods. His plan was to have the sled dry at 430 (stock dry weight) with a turbo setup on it and good shocks.

I talked to C3 by email and they told me they have a belt drive coming for the Pro. It will reduce rotating mass and help prevent this problem...

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nice name drop....

that sucks but the only way that happens if is the chain gets loose. or maybe if you held it wfo on up hill, tail landed, large jump on perfect traction snow. assuming it is a stock or close to stock motor. if your running huge hp then that is a whole other issue.

pv
 
then put vents in the CF hood.... ? its not very hard.

You lose all integrity of the hood doing that with CF. Ideally it would be compression molded with vents similar to stock. I may make some this summer as I have a lot of free time and supply of the best epoxy on the planet for that purpose.

Have FUN!

G MAN
 
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nice name drop....

that sucks but the only way that happens if is the chain gets loose. or maybe if you held it wfo on up hill, tail landed, large jump on perfect traction snow. assuming it is a stock or close to stock motor. if your running huge hp then that is a whole other issue.

pv

Stock motor. I think the chain did get loose. I thought the track was ratcheting so I kept running the sled. Polaris covered all the parts including new bearings and seals.
 
A Arms, Can, Timbersled skid, CF hood (FTX) with headlight delte, Floats or Zbroz with Ti springs, delete foam underhood, Skinz (SPG) lightweight seat, Ti bolts,

I think you could get it down to about 405 lbs dry for a reasonable number... but it already is an excellent machine as delivered from the factory.

IMO, the old paradigm of needing to "mod out" a sled to make it work well

Better to minimize riding weight... snow and Ice gain... tunnel side vinyl, Better Boards, de-burr/pow coat the the skid,

Holz A-arms: $475 for -3lbs, $158/lb
Timberlsed kit: $2080 for -5lbs, $416/lb
CF Hood (estimate): $600 for -4lbs, $150/lb note: headlite delete is about 4lbs
Skinz seat: $500 for -3lbs, $167/lb
Ti Bolts: $1200 for -4lbs, $300/lb (guess at weight, call Absolute Power and Performance in CA)

I'm doing the Busch Lite plan.
 
Rick,
I agree with you... Dropping weight gets super pricey on these things that are already light from the factory.

For me... keeping the weight off with ice/snow control would be a better route... I wish the factory would go back to coated tunnels The recent offerings from Ski Doo and even the 2006 900 Dragon held up very well and the additional weight from the coating was more than made up for in un-gained weight on the hill. Coated rails or Type III hard Ano would also keep the weight from accumulating.
 
I heard that C-3 is talking about a CF tunnel/bulkhead for the pro..(not sure its true though)..that might be worth the money if they do....personally I think the best way to spend money on a stock pro is to spend time making sure it is well dialed in for your riding style/conditions...so many start throwing mod after mod on and never truely get a sled dialed and end up with a expensive, highly modded sled that wont run with a dialed stocker...If I modded anything on my sled for this season(not counting a turbo/bigbore/or brads 1100 motor)I think it would be limited to brads head, good clutching, maybe...just maybe float 2 or R shocks,holz A-arms up frt, and maybe a HPS can...I wouldnt mind putting a 3" extreme under mine..but just not worth the price of a track, new chaincase and drivers and such.. considering how well the stocker does compared to the dragons...hard to justify 3-6 grand in small mods when you could drop a turbo on and have way better on the hill results....
 
Stock motor. I think the chain did get loose. I thought the track was ratcheting so I kept running the sled. Polaris covered all the parts including new bearings and seals.

that sucks. sounds like something i would do/have done... good on you for having it covered under warranty. but, hey now you know, and knowing is half the battle.... GO JOE!
 
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