ok so when i check the resistance between the coils.....what wires am i checking i see it says yellow....so is it yellow to yellow?? and what do they mean no continuity between them
thansk
thansk
Ready to burn my 05 900 fusion
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ok back at it.....looking to try removing my stator and replacing it...but not sure if its the stator or the crank sensors.....dealer wants way too much for a new stator...if you get the stator rewound will they fix the crank sensor too
T
TGitt
Well-known member
You might also want to check your ECU. My 900 would run for just a bit, then it would shut down. I did the same thing you did, I got tired of pulling on it so I towed it out, when I got back to the truck, dang thinkg started right up. Stator and everything checked out fine. I had it at my dealer twice before they figured the ECU was bad. Got it back yesterday and I haven't had a chance to go see if it runs yet, but its something to check.
I know how you feel, it's extremely frustrating. I missed out on some of the best powder days this year because the dang thing wouldn't run.
Hope this helps!! Goodluck man! Let us know how it goes!
I know how you feel, it's extremely frustrating. I missed out on some of the best powder days this year because the dang thing wouldn't run.
Hope this helps!! Goodluck man! Let us know how it goes!
hmmm ecu sounds exensive...how much was that....but mine is doing the exact thing you are saying yours was doing....
T
TGitt
Well-known member
The sheet my dealer gave me said that the ECU was $330. Then with labor and everything it came to $403. First time I couldn't fix it my self, and that was only because I couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. But I found just the ECU at www.babbittsonline.com for $285. The part numer is 4011081.
You said that you had no spark right? Well when mine would quit, there was no spark at all.
You said that you had no spark right? Well when mine would quit, there was no spark at all.
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Sounds like your stator. I would get about $300 ready and I changed mine without pulling my motor and I have an 05 RMK 900. I had the similar problems with mine. It would run just fine cold but as soon as it got warmed up it would start to sputter and backfire and run real crappy so I took it to 3 different dealers nobody could figure it out . So I took things into my own hands and bought a service manual and started going through all my sensors and pulled my stator and check it out cold and heated it to running temps and found it was out of specs when warm. Finally got that working and a couple of rides later started having problem again and finally figured out it was a bad connector on TPS sensor probably messed up when the mechanics had it at the shop. Good luck .
I finally bought me an 08 XP and haven't had a problem since and I love that sled, best all-around sled I have ridden
. And for my 900 , thats my spare sled for the kids to ride cause I can't seem to sell it.
I finally bought me an 08 XP and haven't had a problem since and I love that sled, best all-around sled I have ridden
. And for my 900 , thats my spare sled for the kids to ride cause I can't seem to sell it.were you able to take all the recoil bolts out of the recoil system with it still in the sled.....i have been told that i might not beable to get to all the bolts
there is NO way to get the recoil off the sled w/o the lower housing bolts removed..SAFELY that is..
if you try and pry the motor up to remove the bolts with the engine mounted..you will cause serious damage to your front motor mount bolts and will cause clutch problems..do not attempt IMO..
if you need the housing off, rremove ALL 4 mount bolts in the front cross bar, and 2 rear mount bolts, and any wiring that could be pulled with..
lift engine a few inches, and remove the bottom housing bolt..and maybe one mre if its hard to get to when engine is mounted..and leave them out..
good luck..
if you try and pry the motor up to remove the bolts with the engine mounted..you will cause serious damage to your front motor mount bolts and will cause clutch problems..do not attempt IMO..
if you need the housing off, rremove ALL 4 mount bolts in the front cross bar, and 2 rear mount bolts, and any wiring that could be pulled with..
lift engine a few inches, and remove the bottom housing bolt..and maybe one mre if its hard to get to when engine is mounted..and leave them out..
good luck..
oh man this is what i was affraid of......ok...so how hard is it to get at all these mounting bolts.....
even with removing the side panel its still not possible to get the bolts out of the recoil?
also what are the engine mounting bolts torqued to when i go to put them back in...cant seem to find that in the manual
even with removing the side panel its still not possible to get the bolts out of the recoil?
also what are the engine mounting bolts torqued to when i go to put them back in...cant seem to find that in the manual
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http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=117423
read this thread..will cover everything we talked about recently..
replace the cross member bolts, AND ALL motot mount bolts with GRADE 8 bolts..grade 8 bolts have there own torque requirements...if i come across them i will let you know..
read this thread..will cover everything we talked about recently..
replace the cross member bolts, AND ALL motot mount bolts with GRADE 8 bolts..grade 8 bolts have there own torque requirements...if i come across them i will let you know..
what grade is in the sled now....how come i need to replace all these bolts???? are you talking about the 4 small bolts on the front mounts?? or the 2 that go into each side brace.....
the OEM bolts are grade 5..not weak, but not stong enough for the torque/vibration produced by the 900...
get grade 8 bolts and washers
replace the 2 rear motor mount bolts (1 on each side of motor)
replace the 2 front motor mount bolts (1 for each mount)
replace the 4 front motor mount crossmember bolts (2 by clutch, 2 by pipe)
will cost you less then $10 for all of them..
get grade 8 bolts and washers
replace the 2 rear motor mount bolts (1 on each side of motor)
replace the 2 front motor mount bolts (1 for each mount)
replace the 4 front motor mount crossmember bolts (2 by clutch, 2 by pipe)
will cost you less then $10 for all of them..
how about the hex bolts on the recoil can i change them at alli hate hex bolts.....they always slip when you go to get them out and then you are in trouble...had to break one off when i took the recoil off. Also when i use the puller the stator will be inside the flywheel right.....is there anything i should watch as far as marking things for timing and so on
....burn it....no seriously, burn it...
B
BIGGDAWG
Well-known member
make sure you have the timing markes on the flywheel lined up with about zero when you pull the stator. it makes getting the stator off alot easier. i think it is mag at tdc
ok so where will i see "zero" on the flywheel then....and sorry what do you mean the mag side at TDc??
B
BIGGDAWG
Well-known member
before you take off the recoil housing there is a hole with a small pointer at the top. rotate the crank till you see the timing markes through the hole and line up on 0 which i think is mag piston at TDC=Top Dead Center
this lines up the magnets so the flywheel will come off. took me a while to get mine off till i found this out by trial and error.
i took the recoil off already
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