Question about powder coating my spindles
- Thread starter polarisboyc
- Start date
Another guy that thinks this is true just because of the way he feels even though it has been proven all over the world to be an acceptable process. You don't have a clue about materials or their properties. Please inform me of the temperature that removes temper in cast aluminum with a source? I don't get it, you post very useful info but th powder coating topic you are just misinformed.
On topic
Drive one plastic bushing out using a flat head screw driver and then use a socket to drive the other out. You ruin 2 by doing this. I just bought 2 new ones for $16 from my dealer when I powder coated my spindals.
Oh contrare! But I'll not convince you of that because it would affect your chosen profession. So while AKToad is drumming up more customers. I'll continue to disagree with his scewd perspective, as he is employed by a power coating company to justify the process to the FAA and others (from previous posts). I don't buy his justification, you can find anything on the internet these days and a lot of it is total crap. I have real world experience in materials and metals are my second passion (my first is sleds), thru this I have researched the subject and formed my opinions. You do not have to agree with me, I really could care less.
Just because a lot of people are doing something does not make it correct. There are countless examples in history to prove my point.
I guess my many years of code welding, powder coating, material testing (before I powder coated), materials degree, engineering degree and corrosion work in the oil and gas industry aren't real world enough. I no longer coat for a living and have nothng to gain from talking about coating. If I set up a certified materials test through a certified lab to test so called temper will you put some money on the line? I know of one in state or we can go to one off your choosing. I read some of your post and think it would be great to meet up with you in Valdez and check out your projects and ride but then others you tell a guy he is going to die if he coats his spindals. Just weird, any how if you want to go ride I would love to explore Valdez some more.
WOW, and I thought the Sorority Sluts on campus like to bicker!!!
The new LE models have Painted rails... not PC.
The mfg of the rails for polaris uses 7129 T6 extrusion.
Super tough stuff.... PC works for many... but there have also been a fair amount of failures from over-aging.
Depends on the PC and the temps... I've seen some PC shops that bake-off "impurities" at 500 degrees...
Failures do happen... and I've also seen good PC jobs...
Boils down to an experienced shop with proper procedures
Spindles, straight forward... Clean, blast, PC at lower temp... you'll be fine.
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The mfg of the rails for polaris uses 7129 T6 extrusion.
Super tough stuff.... PC works for many... but there have also been a fair amount of failures from over-aging.
Depends on the PC and the temps... I've seen some PC shops that bake-off "impurities" at 500 degrees...
Failures do happen... and I've also seen good PC jobs...
Boils down to an experienced shop with proper procedures
Spindles, straight forward... Clean, blast, PC at lower temp... you'll be fine.
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I'm not discounting your experience and credentials any more than you're discounting mine. We will agree to disagree on this topic. That said, even if the the spindle were extruded from 5052 (a non-heat treatable alloy specifically formulated for bending), due to the spindle's cross sectional thickness and triangulated design it would likely not bend under normal circumstances.
I may be assuming that because after heating it briefly to 300 degrees F and it bends, that I removed the temper. While it may well not have held the temperature long enough to de-temper it. I don't know that I would put money on it, but I would be interested in the test / results.
I will not Powder coat aluminum for many other reasons as well, but the biggest, is the one we will never agree on. If you get down this way, give me a shout. I may be set in my ways / opinions, but I am not an azz hole and would gladly get a riding group together and show you around.
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polarisboyc
Active member
I got all my parts back from the powder coater and they look great! I'll post pics once I get everything back on. My guy I used bakes at 400 degrees. If I break a spindle or bend a rail i'll be sure to inform everyone
There seems to be a lot of members that know a lot about metallurgy on here....
Bottom line is the choice is yours and there is more than enough info out there for you to make an educated decision. I sent 24 parts for PC last year at a local shop and no regrets at all. This included all of my suspension linkage, spacers, spindles, rails, running board supports, etc (2012 Pro RMK). He would only deal with unpainted aluminum as he was not able to bake them to clean off any paint, oil, etc like he does with the steal parts (PC is nowhere near the temps required for altering the structure of material).While I didn't babysit the oven I was told he would cook the aluminum at 200-220 degrees and that it would just need a much longer cook as the temperature is quite low. A few searches online or a look through an engineering materials handbook will tell you that 220 degrees is far below the lower critical temperature of aluminum and you are in no danger at all of altering the crystalline structure of the material at this temperature.
Short story long it all went together just fine, looks unreal, and took a complete and utter S**T kicking last season. Lots of trees, drops, stumps, etc and no signs of cracking or warping under very close examination.
I will be doing the same to my next machine.
Bottom line is the choice is yours and there is more than enough info out there for you to make an educated decision. I sent 24 parts for PC last year at a local shop and no regrets at all. This included all of my suspension linkage, spacers, spindles, rails, running board supports, etc (2012 Pro RMK). He would only deal with unpainted aluminum as he was not able to bake them to clean off any paint, oil, etc like he does with the steal parts (PC is nowhere near the temps required for altering the structure of material).While I didn't babysit the oven I was told he would cook the aluminum at 200-220 degrees and that it would just need a much longer cook as the temperature is quite low. A few searches online or a look through an engineering materials handbook will tell you that 220 degrees is far below the lower critical temperature of aluminum and you are in no danger at all of altering the crystalline structure of the material at this temperature.
Short story long it all went together just fine, looks unreal, and took a complete and utter S**T kicking last season. Lots of trees, drops, stumps, etc and no signs of cracking or warping under very close examination.
I will be doing the same to my next machine.
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My last ice age rails were powdercoated and bent very easily.
My brothers rails were powdercoated at a much better shop and they held up better than my stockers with no coating.
Powdercoated spindles and lots of other stuff with no issues.
I now have anodized ice age rails.
Long story short dont get anything powdercoated at penninsula powdercoating every piece i recieved back had inconsistencies ( two tone color) or a run or bulge in it, worst powdercoat job i've ever seen. Same guy did the overcooked rails. To top it off his pricing is about double anywhere else.
Rant over.
My last ice age rails were powdercoated and bent very easily.
My brothers rails were powdercoated at a much better shop and they held up better than my stockers with no coating.
Powdercoated spindles and lots of other stuff with no issues.
I now have anodized ice age rails.
Long story short dont get anything powdercoated at penninsula powdercoating every piece i recieved back had inconsistencies ( two tone color) or a run or bulge in it, worst powdercoat job i've ever seen. Same guy did the overcooked rails. To top it off his pricing is about double anywhere else.
Rant over.
I think the rails on the 14 might be painted... When I swapped out my assault rails for my ice ages I couldn't believe how easy the red was scratching. Never had powdercoat scratch that easily...
Stock rails are a low temp baked enamel, looks like powder coat until it scratches.
The reason there is debate on this issue is that the temperate for for PC is right at the point where changes could occur. It's a blurry line that can't be predicted w/o knowing a lot more about the materials and the control over the processes.
For me, Ice Age anodizes their rails, so that kind of leads me to believe that's the right move more so than PC.
No sir.
Mask the hyfax area from paint/PC.
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polarisboyc
Active member
I did what mountainhorse said, I just masked off the area and they slid on perfect.
yup tried removing mine. didn't go too well.
Just left the rest in the spindle for powdercoating.
PS, the powdercoater baked all the aluminum at 250F.
Shouldn't be any problems.
Looks like i'll have to start prying the one broken bushing out.
If I don't, I'll just have a bit of slop in one ski right? Any slop?
Just left the rest in the spindle for powdercoating.
PS, the powdercoater baked all the aluminum at 250F.
Shouldn't be any problems.
Looks like i'll have to start prying the one broken bushing out.
If I don't, I'll just have a bit of slop in one ski right? Any slop?
Since the bushing flange is broken off, you should be able to tap both bushings out from that side. Find a socket or something slightly smaller than the OD of the bushing / hole, support the spindle extrusion so the flanged bushing can move and tap the socket thru pushing out both the broken bushing and the good one. You can then buy a new one and re-reuse the other if it is not worn.
A
ak
Well-known member
Well who did your brother use than? Advanced powder coating?
