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polarisboyc
Active member
There is a bushing that the bolt that holds the ski on goes through, does that need to come out when i get them powder coated? I cant tell if its plastic or metal! Its on a 2013 pro.
Question about powder coating my spindles
- Thread starter polarisboyc
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polarisboyc
Active member
Yea i tried with a flat head last night and it didnt work haha, I'll try a punch though. Thank you!
Good luck! Those things are a real pain! Fortunately they are only like $50 a piece from polaris if you break them. Learned that the hard way. I've tried both ways leaving them and taking them out and ended up with some ok and some bad doing it both ways.
Powder coating will de-temper (weaken) the aluminum. Yes, even the low temp powders / bake cycle. But it is your sled and your life at stake, do what you will. My conscience is clear, you have been told.
O god another powder coating aluminum battle. Everybody knows it is not good to powder coat aluminum but didnt polaris just powder coat there rails on the 14s or is just paint not sure. Either way i havent heard of anybody breaking there spindle after powder coating.
That is my preference. HydroPhobic Hard anodizing.
The IQ's were cast or forged, the PRO's, Rush's, IQR's are an extruded heat treated alloy and if exposed to 300 degrees for any time at all it takes the heat treatment out and you loose about half of its strength depending on the specific alloy.
Yes, with Anodizing it is harder for them to get an exact color match (cast vs. extruded), as well as the surface is rougher so it doesn't look as consistent as an anodized extrusion. The alloying elements also can play he!! with the process as the zinc and other metals can negate how well it works.
You guys will do what you want regardless, I just see some responsibility in educating the uninformed on their decisions. Those decisions can have a very negative consequences to themselves, their families, and their riding partners, should a part fail because of it.
I by no means know it all, but I know enough that I will not Powder coat my aluminum. As I live in Alaska which at present has no anodizing facility and shipping is outrageous, if the parts are not pre-anodized when I receive them, they likely do not get coated at all.
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polarisboyc
Active member
Thanks for the input everyone! I was able to get them out, it damaged them a little but definitely not enough to not re-use them. As far as the powder coating goes, does anyone know if the spindles on the iq chassis are aluminum? I did those a few years back and they seemed to hold up ok!
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danduvall
Well-known member
I just sent 2 sets of rails to my anodizer today!! ... I knew I should of yanked my spindles and sent them too, but they looked like cast to me!
Yeah its not worth the risk to powder coat heat treated high stress alum. Besides Anodize is cheap! .04¢ per sq inch
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Shippings not bad if you can fit them in a flat rate box lol..
Agree, or send them "Standard Post" and wait (Patience Grasshopper!)
Surprisingly USPS is almost always half the cost and better / faster service to the bush, then the other two. Still a lot though. I likely have more in shipping in my builds than the actual parts.
I didn't take the bushings out, did the low temp bake, everything seems fine. I am not a super aggressive rider so I am not too worried about taking any temper out. I will be doing my boards, spindles, seat post, rear bumper brackets and tie rods when my snowcheck shows up. Just got the email that it was shipped!!! Sweeet!!!!!
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polarisboyc
Active member
I might be going with the anodizing now, how does it hold up on the running boards?
And just for the record since there are so many people on here concerned about taking the temper out, can anyone actually PROVE that it takes the temper out? Or Loudhandle are you just talking out of your *** as you just recently accused someone of doing on another post?
I do it at work all the time, two easy temp indicators, if you would like to verify for yourself. A standard Sharpie burns off at about 300 degrees F. same as the carbon from an Oxyacetyne torch before you turn the oxygen on.
Get a piece of heat treated 6061-T6 (most common). Draw a line or scribble a mark with a Sharpie or smoke it with the torch.
Compare how easy it bends before warming it and after burning the Sharpie or Smoke off.
I'm not talking out my Azz, I've done it thousands of times to make stuff where the end strength was not a concern.
If you do not have a torch put it in the wifes oven for 20-30 minutes so it can get up to 300 degrees F. I've done it that way at work also when bending a lot of the same thing.
Easiest way to prove it to yourself either way. Good luck
Some good info in this thread... http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=151053
No doubt heat has will continue to age the material, but depending on what state it is currently in, it may make it weaker or possibly stronger.
I would just be cautious as to what parts are coated. I have had many spindles coated over the years and know of many others without any problems, even the factory is P-coating them on many sleds....but spindles are pretty beefy, it would take much more time at 350-400F to effect the core material than it takes to bake the powdercoat (according to some charts I checked out).
No doubt heat has will continue to age the material, but depending on what state it is currently in, it may make it weaker or possibly stronger.
I would just be cautious as to what parts are coated. I have had many spindles coated over the years and know of many others without any problems, even the factory is P-coating them on many sleds....but spindles are pretty beefy, it would take much more time at 350-400F to effect the core material than it takes to bake the powdercoat (according to some charts I checked out).
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polarisboyc
Active member
Im doing my spindles, running boards, rails, and seat post. If anodizing will hold up on the running boards i may just go that route to be safe
