Pulling engine, have some questions

[FLASH1970]

Greetings all, I made some head way on pulling my 975 out and I have a few questions. I took some pics and I'm hoping to get some answers cuz the service manual is... ummm... it blows. So, I found this broken spring under the throttle bodies. My guess is it had something to do with the oil cable.

Also, I found some connectors that weren't connected to anything and I'm wondering if maybe it was for those with a battery or something else and if I should be worried.

Chances are I'll have more questions so if you fellow 900 owners could help me out, it'd be great. Thanks in advance.

 

[BIGGDAWG]

the spring in the first picture is a add-on spring that a lot of guys put on the oil pump lever to keep it from sticking on. it didn't come on it from the factory.

i put them on all of our 9's because i have come across a few levers that would stick.

 

[KSH]

Your extra "connections" are test ports and electric start wires.

 

[paramuir]

just a note, watch that oil line that comes down between the cylinder heads. It goes to a brass fitting that is pressed into the block, mine came out last season while on the trail..oil everywhere and a ling double ride home

 

[FLASH1970]

Thanks guys. Hopefully tomorrow I can get a chain hoist and yank it out.

 

[guidoxpress]

Dang..you all beat me to it, lol...what everyone said is exactly right...of coarse..lol..

just another FYI..i know i have mentioned it..but be VERY careful with your wiring..do not yank or pull on it very hard..you will be fighting a wiring issue for a long time..

i replaced ALL bolts i removed with grade 8 bolts..i dont care if they didnt need to be or not..cheap ins...and might as well replace the motor mount bolts holding the REA mounts to the builkhead..i will bet you will turn a few turns and bust them off..beat you money I used long bolts and used nuts on the back...only 2 of them on the MAG side cant use nuts on them....worked great..

also be EXTREMELY careful with your reed cage bolts...alot of guys busted them trying to take them off...just be very careful with them..lots of trouble getting them out..and tap holes to get the factory red locktite off before you install them back in..

great work so far....

 

[FLASH1970]

Thanks guidoxpress. I always pull on the connector when disconnecting wire harnesses and never put stress on the wires.

As far as the grade 8 bolts, I plan to replace the 2 on each side of the Front Engine Support Base along with the base itself (the whole reason I'm doing this), one on each side that go through the motor mount into the block, and whatever other ones I find.

Do I have to remove the reed bolts to get the engine out? The manual doesn't say anything about that. Then again, the manual isn't very good.

 

[jafraune]

You dont have to remove the intake boots....if you want to put in new ones because they are cracked or something is wrong then of course you have remove them. Taking out the bolts can be PITA because they are weak and the factory used red loctite to keep them in. which is overkill...a lot of people have broken them in the case...including myself...

 

[paramuir]

sorry dont want to high jack this topic but....after you pull the TB bolts are you putting loctite back on when you re-install?

 

[jafraune]

just use the blue loctite

 

[FLASH1970]

My intake boots look ok. Maybe just a hairline crack on them. So, I plan to give them a good coating of RTV and cover them with some heat tape.

 

[paramuir]

Rtv?

 

[FLASH1970]

Rtv?

Permatex.

 

[paramuir]

permatex?

 

[FLASH1970]

permatex?

http://www.permatex.com/

 

[MacDawg productions]

IMO, rtv sealer is just a bandaid fix. Not recommended. You don't want those babies leaking air in and causing a melt down. Just replace them. If your taking the motor out, pretty easy to work on, on a workbench. Fix it properly. These things have enough problems!!

 

[BIGGDAWG]

IMO, rtv sealer is just a bandaid fix. Not recommended. You don't want those babies leaking air in and causing a melt down. Just replace them. If your taking the motor out, pretty easy to work on, on a workbench. Fix it properly. These things have enough problems!!

i second that your just asking for trouble if you don't replace them

 

[FLASH1970]

Well, I made a little progess tonight.

Here's the reason for pulling the engine.

Again, not a great picture but here's one of my front motor mounts.

Found these in the belly pan.

So, it looks like I need a new front engine support base and some motor mounts.

 

[Himark]

Wow...those chains make that motor look heavy and I must be Heeman...LOL. Im a small guy and lifted mine out no troubles. I still need to learn the work smarter not harder



BTW, dont forget to pull the bottom bolts out of the recoil housing and leave them out so you can service that in the event of a broken rope. This way you wont have to pull motor loose.

 

[94fordguy]

IMO, rtv sealer is just a bandaid fix. Not recommended. You don't want those babies leaking air in and causing a melt down. Just replace them. If your taking the motor out, pretty easy to work on, on a workbench. Fix it properly. These things have enough problems!!

Agreed, easy to replace while the motor is already out and not really that much money considering how important they are to the whole works.

Wow...those chains make that motor look heavy and I must be Heeman...LOL. Im a small guy and lifted mine out no troubles. I still need to learn the work smarter not harder



BTW, dont forget to pull the bottom bolts out of the recoil housing and leave them out so you can service that in the event of a broken rope. This way you wont have to pull motor loose.

X2....