Problem with Silber turbo kit.
- Thread starter Sunvang
- Start date
Go to Robyn Rydening,, He wil fix this issue for you,,
Robyn has good turbo knowledge and is in Norway..
Gus
Robyn has good turbo knowledge and is in Norway..
Gus
if i am not mistaken norway's fuel is not 2 octane away from 100ll. their fuel is giving you the research octane number which is always quite a bit higher than motor octane number. us and canada's fuel is rated as pump octane which is (RON + MON)/2. 98 in norway is much the same as our premium
Well...........
Cutted of a piece of the bulkhead that was rubbing against the bolt holding the throttle boot.... GOD DAMN this thing rips!
Running on only 5psi of boost and still premium gas, no detonation at all! Still got some tuning and weighting to do, but damn im happy!
Thanks to all the tips and suggestions, especially to EZ for the setup! Works great!
Cutted of a piece of the bulkhead that was rubbing against the bolt holding the throttle boot.... GOD DAMN this thing rips!
Running on only 5psi of boost and still premium gas, no detonation at all! Still got some tuning and weighting to do, but damn im happy! Thanks to all the tips and suggestions, especially to EZ for the setup! Works great!
Thank you, and merry christmas to all of my fellow turboers out there!
and to you as well !
Thank you, and merry christmas to all of my fellow turboers out there!
All I have left is to install the spring and helix in the secondary and I get to play with my new toy tomorrow ! I think I will take some some off the bolt bulkhead before Im done.
New problem/situation guys!
Driving normal at cruising A/F ratio at 13.5 to 15 and then give it WOT, runs good at WOT with an A/F ratio at around 12 for 1-2sec but suddenly boggs out and started to only go on one cylinder. Checked the plugs and they were too bright in my opinion and both dry. Changed plug on PTO side after I found out that was dead. Started it, tried to ride and it ran great. Later in the night, same thing happens but now i only had to stop it, then start it again and were good to go. Hasnt happened since. Any toughts on what happend?
Another issue that's usually only happens when riding on long lakes, riding at around 5-6000rpms with a A/F ratio at 14-15, then trying to give it WOT it detonates and dET comes on almost right after i get boost.
Last issue, sometimes engine light comes on and its a battery blinking in to left lower corner of the display. Anybody know what that is?
Driving normal at cruising A/F ratio at 13.5 to 15 and then give it WOT, runs good at WOT with an A/F ratio at around 12 for 1-2sec but suddenly boggs out and started to only go on one cylinder. Checked the plugs and they were too bright in my opinion and both dry. Changed plug on PTO side after I found out that was dead. Started it, tried to ride and it ran great. Later in the night, same thing happens but now i only had to stop it, then start it again and were good to go. Hasnt happened since. Any toughts on what happend?
Another issue that's usually only happens when riding on long lakes, riding at around 5-6000rpms with a A/F ratio at 14-15, then trying to give it WOT it detonates and dET comes on almost right after i get boost.
Last issue, sometimes engine light comes on and its a battery blinking in to left lower corner of the display. Anybody know what that is?
J
jsandgren10
Well-known member
I haven't had mine out yet but based on what you are saying on the lake rides is your AF is a bit high IMO. Running close to 15 and then going WOT doesn't react fast enough when the boost hits so it gets the DET light. I would run more of a 13-14 AF running down the trail. I only have 14-15 at idle.
When you snap the throttle on the lake, what mode does the box go into?
I would leave everything and raise your yellow up for more fuel on quick throttle movements. When you stab it wot from a dead stop how is its performance?
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J
jsandgren10
Well-known member
at 6000 rpm what speed are you cruising at?? Per Justins instructions should be 13-14 AF at high speed cruise. I always like to run in the 13's just to be safe. On my apex I never ran in 14's except at idle, running down the trail I aimed for 13.5. I would give it a try like frisco said bump the yellow up one to see if it helps.
To make the yellow mode come on quicker, you lower the yellow/blue. Single yellow is the amount of yellow fuel. Yellow mode seems to act like an accelerator pump on an old car carb.
Try each one separately. My sled likes very low yellow and yellow/blue numbers. If the yellow blue is too high, I think it tries to go back to single green too easy when backing off from wot to 1/2 throttle resulting in a lean condition.
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When my red/blue is too low or red is too high, I have encountered this. I run my single red around 1-2 and red/blue at 7ish. Just a tad to rich on this circuit makes my sled do the same thing.
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