Primary clutch snapped? How and how to get it off?

[99slpss]

So I was doing my preseason maintenance on was going to put my new Rooster adj weights in. I pull the belt off and was just going to pop the clutch off so I thread in the clutch remover and nothing, only tried once and it felt super tight so backed it out and decided I would try the water method with teflon tape and I then noticed my primary was snapped right next to the rear sheave. I was shocked!!! Now how do I get the damn thing off and did it probably hurt anything else? And looking at it by the rust on it could have it been this way for a little bit? Basically a ticking time bomb!!

Crazy though I just did my new RKTek top end and was heat cycling the sled and filling coolant yesterday and it didn't totally snap on me.

 

[99slpss]

Now the clutch puller wont thread back in either What a morning I am at a loss!!

 

[mickyd32]

I'm not sure what thread the taper in the centre of te clutch is, but possible a 3 or 4 arm puller that will fit inside the centre taper


What scares me here is how much force it can sometimes take to get a clutch off. You could literally pull the aluminum apart on the sheave before pulling tr clutch apart

You could try heating the inner sheave. I'm not talking using a cutting torch and a rose bud, just a small propane torch and some tenderness

If there is rust there just heating it a little may be enough to break that rust, and if you are careful to only heat the clutch sheave it should expand a little and make the "pull" easier.

Make sure to emry cloth that shaft good and clean after. Double check for burs.

 

[99slpss]

is this nuts thinking or could I weld the crack back together then try pulling it off?

 

[mickyd32]

For next time get some of this and apply to the snub shaft of the crank

 

[mickyd32]

Is it the end of the crank that has broken off or just the clutch split?

 

[fastmnstealth]

Same thing happened to me. Dealer welded it back together and used a standard puller. He has seen a bunch of them. Mine was a 2012 and had 400mi on it at the time. Fortunately it was covered under warranty.

Good Luck

 

[MountainRider05]

Yep same thing happend to me last year on my 12 in Wyoming.. Except it decided to try and come apart at WOT. Took it to the local dealer and they ended up taking a die grinder and a chisel to get it off..

 

[snowmobiler]

O snap

 

[JMCX]

Now the clutch puller wont thread back in either What a morning I am at a loss!!

If it's broken shouldn't you now have a situation like Mountain Rider? Are you saying the clutch is still in one piece? The threads inside the clutch are 3/4" NF if that helps.

 

[99slpss]

Is it the end of the crank that has broken off or just the clutch split?

Clutch split

 

[jltbo]

die grinder and chisel, done a few. aluminum sheave off first then steel knurled collar and take your time. check crank for run out may need to true up.
good luck

 

[MountainRider05]

Yep exactly

 

[die hard poo]

Two options, weld the clutch back together, minimize heat transfer to crank shaft, then use conventional puller. Or use a cutoff wheel and chisel. Since you are in a place to easily weld it, that's what I would do. Oh and never put anti-seize on your crank shaft. It needs to be a clean dry metal contact. I do however always anti-sieze the clutch bolt threads for lubrication.

 

[xmk1080]

Run a tab through and clean the threads, rap a wet rag between the motor and clutch, then weld it back together, put some grease on the tip and threads of the puller and it will pop right off!

 

[Pro-8250]

Two options, weld the clutch back together, minimize heat transfer to crank shaft, then use conventional puller. Or use a cutoff wheel and chisel. Since you are in a place to easily weld it, that's what I would do. Oh and never put anti-seize on your crank shaft. It needs to be a clean dry metal contact. I do however always anti-sieze the clutch bolt threads for lubrication.

I agree.

 

[LoudHandle]

Two options, weld the clutch back together, minimize heat transfer to crank shaft, then use conventional puller. Or use a cutoff wheel and chisel. Since you are in a place to easily weld it, that's what I would do. Oh and never put anti-seize on your crank shaft. It needs to be a clean dry metal contact. I do however always anti-seize the clutch bolt threads for lubrication.

Well stated, The taper needs to be a clean dry metal to metal fit. Anything else and you are asking for more trouble.

Note: Anti-Seize is essentially a grease with metal particles in it such as zinc. It will inhibit the metal to metal contact required to take the load, and it also will inhibit the alignment, you would essentially be putting grit in between the two mating faces and destroying both of them in the process. DO NOT PUT ANYTHING ON THE TAPER SURFACES, assembled clean and dry and the correct torque and re-torque after heat cycling are the key.

 

[4strokeperformance]

Anti seize

Not looking for a fight, just better understanding. I've been riding Yamaha's since 1980 and have owned almost every model made since that year. I have used anti seize on every clutch and never had an issue with any one of them. Now that I'm riding a Pro, after reading some of these posts that say not to use it I:m a little nervous about using it. Why does it work so well on one brand but not another. Thanks for any help in advance.

 

[rmscustom]

For next time get some of this and apply to the snub shaft of the crank

NO!!!

 

[AndrettiDog]

My 09 Dragon did the same thing. We used a die grinder and cut it off as well. Very delicate process as you don't want to ruin the run off of your crank. I measured mine afterward and it was still in spec. That metal is some hard stuff so it will take time!

The welding deal is very scary as you can burn down those bearings that can't be replaced w/o cracking the bottom end. You could put wet rags on it but even then it's sketchy.