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Primary clutch snapped? How and how to get it off?

For next time get some of this and apply to the snub shaft of the crank


In any taper/taper fit drive assembly... if that is a boat prop or a sled clutch... regardless of brand... the tapers, both internal and external, must be CLEAN of any rust, Clean of ANY oil or residue and DRY before assembly.

Never use anti-seize, oil, grease, corrosion inhibitor, loctite, or any other compound in there PERIOD....Regardless of brand of sled or clutch.

If the bore or the shaft is grooved... you have big problems that must be remedied.






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Well stated, The taper needs to be a clean dry metal to metal fit. Anything else and you are asking for more trouble.

Note: Anti-Seize is essentially a grease with metal particles in it such as zinc. It will inhibit the metal to metal contact required to take the load, and it also will inhibit the alignment, you would essentially be putting grit in between the two mating faces and destroying both of them in the process. DO NOT PUT ANYTHING ON THE TAPER SURFACES, assembled clean and dry and the correct torque and re-torque after heat cycling are the key.

FWIW, I to agree on this. I think people might be afraid of over-torqueing the bolt. But consider the oposite;bolt not torqued properly/enough.

My theory:
What happens is, you ride your sled and heat up the clutch in the deep and steep. The material expands and the friction between crank snub and clutch is less than the torque twisting the crank. Now, imagine looking at your clutch with the side panel removed, clutch and crank spinning counter-clockwise to you.

If you hold the clutch still and continue twisting the crank, the bolt will either spin with the crank and slip on the outside of the clutch, OR THE OPOSITE!
THAT means sticking to the outside of the clutch and turn in the threads, tightening your bolt!

So, who will torque that bolt the most??? You going a bit to far with your torque-wrench, or a 150Hp engine?
 
this exact thing happened to me on my 13 a month ago when i went to pull my clutch. i ended up cutting the aluminum sheave off of the steel piece and then welded the two parts back together very slowly allowing a lot of time to cool in between each small weld. never letting it get hot. then i used a puller and got it off. hope my crank is ok. i havent checked the runout. i just installed rk tek pistons in mine and i might try to check the runout once i get the motor installed back in the sled. i highly recommend calling indy dan and purchasing a new clutch from him. its well worth the money since it already comes machined and balanced and trust me its cheaper than what you could get one for at your dealer.
 
I purchased a new clutch this year just because it was looking wore on the spider and has been getting harder and harder to remove

$512 can with my discount, what is a balanced indydan clutch worth?
 
this exact thing happened to me on my 13 a month ago when i went to pull my clutch. i ended up cutting the aluminum sheave off of the steel piece and then welded the two parts back together very slowly allowing a lot of time to cool in between each small weld. never letting it get hot. then i used a puller and got it off. hope my crank is ok. i havent checked the runout. i just installed rk tek pistons in mine and i might try to check the runout once i get the motor installed back in the sled. i highly recommend calling indy dan and purchasing a new clutch from him. its well worth the money since it already comes machined and balanced and trust me its cheaper than what you could get one for at your dealer.


Calling indydan on Monday! First person I thought of to see if he had one on hand.
 
What year sled is this 99slpss??

FWIW....IndyDan called this back in like '07 when Polaris increased the size of the taper on the crankshaft...

i don't think I saw it mentioned but if you do try to weld it back up, please make sure you disconnect the ECM/ECU. And if equipped with E-start, then disconnect the battery as well.
 
What year sled is this 99slpss??

FWIW....IndyDan called this back in like '07 when Polaris increased the size of the taper on the crankshaft...

i don't think I saw it mentioned but if you do try to weld it back up, please make sure you disconnect the ECM/ECU. And if equipped with E-start, then disconnect the battery as well.


It's a 2012 Pro. I ended up using a angle grinder to get it off took a while but it's off. So is this more common then I am thinking?
 
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