Primary clutch prob?

[wpeak]

Pulled primary off of 08' summit last night for only second time. First time was last year, the clutch puller shattered. I thought that it was pulling awfully hard but really did not know. So last night with a new puller i started agian and got to the point where i was nervous agian and called the dealer to talk to a mechanic, of course he said they come off tough. I kept going and it did finally come, but from the threads down there is now a dog leg in the puller like a par 5 golf course. Also the taper inside the primary shows spiral scarring as well as the crank shaft. Anyone know whats going on?

 

[Wyoming T/A]

Pulled primary off of 08' summit last night for only second time. First time was last year, the clutch puller shattered. I thought that it was pulling awfully hard but really did not know. So last night with a new puller i started agian and got to the point where i was nervous agian and called the dealer to talk to a mechanic, of course he said they come off tough. I kept going and it did finally come, but from the threads down there is now a dog leg in the puller like a par 5 golf course. Also the taper inside the primary shows spiral scarring as well as the crank shaft. Anyone know whats going on?

over torque???we have pulled ours many times last year with no problem---1 thing is to make sure the sled is in a heated shop---cold is about impossible to get off--warm it up and they pop right off---

 

[Throttle Junkie]

over torque???we have pulled ours many times last year with no problem---1 thing is to make sure the sled is in a heated shop---cold is about impossible to get off--warm it up and they pop right off---

That and also another good trick it to put a small amount of grease on the puller thread and the very tip of the puller each time. Just a small dab...keeps the puller from binding.

The "metal scaring" sounds a little scarry....possible the primary slipping on the taper?? hard to tell to see what it looks like.

 

[wpeak]

I thought over torque was a possibility the first time but I put it back on at spec the second. Also used a dab of grease on puller and sled has been in heated shop ( 65 degrees ) for 3 weeks. Is it possible that either the taper on the clutch or crank could be out of tolerance? If so how could you check it? The scarring is not real deep but you can slightly feel it with your finger. Can I clean it up with emery cloth or a file? How much, if any, could you take off before it caused a bigger problem? Is this something that could have happened at the dealer or the factory?

 

[wpeak]

Here are some pics of the puller.

 

[Union Pass DOO]

that puller is a cheap one i bought one and it did the same thing ,ask your dealer to order the one they use in the shop,it has a 21 m head

 

[Snoclo]

Looks a little scary how that puller is tweaked. In the future I reccommend that when you use a puller, apply some heat to the fixed portion of the sheave down where the belt normally rests. Light pressure from the puller & a small amount of heat to that area-clutch slips right off.
This method has been confirmed by an engineer I spoke with from BRP @ Hay Days several years back.

 

[wpeak]

Not trying to deminish any of your guys advice ( thanks for the input ) but so far I did everything that has been suggested. Thus the reason for my worry.

 

[RGM]

Put the sled on it side fill the hole with water, put some teflon tape on the puller threads and try it. Some guys will even tighten to what they feel comfortable about and if still doesn't pop put it out side and let the water freeze.

 

[Mountaintech]

Put the sled on it side fill the hole with water, put some teflon tape on the puller threads and try it. Some guys will even tighten to what they feel comfortable about and if still doesn't pop put it out side and let the water freeze.

With the temps we have on the west coast right now that would take no time at all!!!

 

[plumnuts]

I use only BRP pullers and if I get to the point I think it is too tight... I use a heat gun... a lot of times I can heat it up (no hotter than a hard pull up a long hill) and then leave it over night (with the puller tight).. and in the AM the clutch is off

 

[Throttle Junkie]

Here are some pics of the puller.

What do the marks look like on the crank and primary? If it's pulling material off the crank and inside of the primary i would think something is wrong.

 

[wildman dan]

clutch puller

The easiest way to pull it off is put some anti sieze on the tip of the puller and the threads, snug it down with an impact if it doesnt pop loose hit the end of the puller with a hammer a few times, usually the vibrations help pop it loose. just did two xp's today with the same problem and it worked fine.re-torque to a 100 foot pounds.

 

[Throttle Junkie]

The easiest way to pull it off is put some anti sieze on the tip of the puller and the threads, snug it down with an impact if it doesnt pop loose hit the end of the puller with a hammer a few times, usually the vibrations help pop it loose. just did two xp's today with the same problem and it worked fine.re-torque to a 100 foot pounds.

glad you didn't beat on my crank and the torque spec is 88lbs on the XP's.

 

[eddy]

Impact

Some mechanics think the impact wrench is not a good idea to be used on the crankshaft.
Could it cause the crank to go out of phase?

 

[Adrenalin]

Some mechanics think the impact wrench is not a good idea to be used on the crankshaft.
Could it cause the crank to go out of phase?

its the hammer action of the impacts , its hard HARD on bearing and any slack component just gets hammered, it may work but i dont recommend it

 

[bri74]

tighten the puller good and tight with grease on the threads and the tip of the puller, give it a whack with a hammer, retighten the puller and whack again if you dont go overboard with the tightening or the hammer just do small steps it will come off with time and wont cause any damage to the puller. In my experience anyway

 

[JROD]

SLP makes good pullers. Never buy any of the gold ones. They do work for most applications but not very well on stuck clutches.
Teflon tape and grease works well too.

 

[wpeak]

The marks are about 1/32 to 1/64 deep on the crank and inside the primary like something with a point was resting on it while it was spinning. Which would not make since why there are marks on both. All I know is it seems like it pulls harder than it should and has broke 2 diff pullers the first 2 times I pulled it. It seems like the scarring has something to do with it, so now I need to remedy it. Again I appriciate the advice. Does anyone know how much I can take off the tapers with out ef'in it up? I.E., throw it out of balance or mess with the alignment?

 

[fassteddie]

check the crank taper for burrs. also look at clutch taper. there should not be any marks except full taper coverage contact area. sounds like something got between the two fits.