Exploding Primary
- Thread starter cortez
- Start date
you guys that think the clutch bolt is the problem are barking up the wrong tree , when the clutch shaft broke the bolt was the only thing holding the 2 halves together ,the bolt was never designed for that and broke probally aftr miles of riding .this is not common and the standard bolt is works just fine . p/s if you put a titainium bolt in the crank and it breaks you will have a imposible time trying to get it out and most likely will
ruin the crank.
What tree should Sledders be barking up?
C
cortez
Well-known member
I Couldn’t agree more. I think it’s either a fitment issue with the mating tapers, or an Imbalance issue that’s causing it to work loose over time, once the tapered fits work loose and are no longer “pressed” together - the load is then placed on the bolt which was not engineered to handle this load and the associated vibration/wobble from tapered fit coming loose.. it eventually fatigues the bolt and breaks it. I looked closed when dropping it at the dealer today My bolt broke about 3 threads in from the back end.
Hopefully they can find the root cause of this and not just keep throwing new primary’s at them….
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Bolts all stretch.....it is the yield point that is cause for concern. this would cause permanent lengthening of the bolt and certain failure.
Can the new P22 be balanced by the aftermarket guys like the P85?
Indy specialties. I’ve tried others and I always end up going back to Indy specialties.
I hereby concur with the dis-similar matching taper hypothesis.
the clutch broke first at the rear sheave them the bolt broke afterward ,
Or 2018 800 broke the clutch in half rear sheave stayed on the crank. It bent the bolt the broken half was flopping around on the bent bolt. Or 2017 broke the bolt at some point during the day and the sled ran the whole day the clutch stayed on the crank the whole time ?.
We have done many P22 clutches...We index them (they are splined) as they do separate fixed sheave from Movable so it gets back together the same as when balanced...BUT you need to do the secondary as well..Like balancing your front tires of your car and not the back!! we are just 1-2 days out for balancing...You will get a dyne sheet with results from where it starts to where we get hot to..Usually within 1 pound at 8000 RMP. Most start at 30-70 lobs out at 8000 rpm..
In all honesty if the clutch tapers fit perfect you don't need a clutch bolt only to tighten the first time...How many people have a really hard time taking the clutch off??? If your clutch comes of easy with no effort your taper need to be matched..lapping is the only way...
A light weight chunk of aluminum stuck on the end of a small chunk of steel. Dont see alot of this happening on trail sleds because they just dont see anywhere near the abuse.
C
cortez
Well-known member
Heard a rumour that Polaris altered the fitment of the taper with the 850 patriot motor as they were prone to very difficult removal on the 800 motors.. as I’ve experienced myself. It seems odd it’s just rearing it’s head now, but more power and more torque with the boost would be a logical reason for this to be appearing more now? All rumours so take it for what you will.
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I believe that statement. I got a new Primary on warranty on my 2019 850. The inner taper on the clutch had a sharp ridge on part of it from the crank. This was the first time I'd ever seen that. I have always cleaned the crank stub and the inner taper with a fine scotchbrite pad and then wipe it with a shop towel and brake cleaner to make sure the surfaces are clean and dry. I almost cut my finger on the sharp lip in the inner taper when cleaning it. There was no evidence of the clutch spinning on the crank. The way the 850 clutches come off so easy I could be convinced that the tapers on the clutch and the crank are just slightly off.
How are guys lapping them? Are they just using some lapping compound and slowly turning the clutch by hand on the crank until the mating surfaces look like they are touching everywhere?
Per Polaris your supposed to use a tapered deburring tool inside the clutch every time it's removed. In the axys service manual it mentions a 33° tapered reamer. This would have removed the sharp lip in your clutch and maybe allowed it to seat further on the crank.
You sound like a dealer. Blaming the customer for the clutch falling off.
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