primary clutch install question

[rags319]

Should clutch be put on crank dry or use a little anti seizure.. I think correct tork is 80 ft lbs right. Thanks

 

[BILTIT]

Dry and clean (both crank and clutch side) and 80 yup.

 

[LoudHandle]

Repost from another thread:

The taper needs to be a clean, dry metal to metal fit. Anything else and you are asking for more trouble.

Note: Anti-Seize is essentially a grease with metal particles in it such as zinc. It will inhibit the metal to metal contact required to take the load, and it also will inhibit the alignment, you would essentially be putting grit in between the two mating faces and destroying both of them in the process. DO NOT PUT ANYTHING ON THE TAPER SURFACES, assembled clean and dry and the correct torque and re-torque after heat cycling are the key.

 

[Oregonsledder]

I emory cloth both mating surfaces and then clean with acetone.

 

[NapaMatt]

Side note...


Hold Primary clutch at different angle.. or holding spots on clutch..

Till Primary stops taking torq.


Don't hold clutch in one spot only..

 

[simnil]

Doing most of my wrenching outside I have learned that a single snow flake on the crank stub will/can cause a small amount of corrosion between crank and clutch tapers if left there. The bonding caused by this can be strong enough to cause problems.

On the E-tec sleds with their very high tightening torque this can be the difference between getting the clutch off at all or not.

 

[jdw1]

You should torque clutch bolt and then run engine and re-torque, no more than 80 ft lbs.

 

[2.S.F.L]

How do you guys stop the clutch from turning while torquing it?

 

[BILTIT]

There is a proper clutch holding tool but I have misplaced mine so I use a pry bar through the towers of the clutch.

 

[Oregonsledder]

There is a proper clutch holding tool but I have misplaced mine so I use a pry bar through the towers of the clutch.

That makes me cringe!! I use a large strap wrench I made to distribute the holding pressure around the clutch evenly.

 

[Laundryboy]

I just use a wooden broom handle. I just don't slide it through the slider towers.

 

[BILTIT]

I have used a strap wrench aswell.

 

[BILTIT]

That makes me cringe!! I use a large strap wrench I made to distribute the holding pressure around the clutch evenly.

Lol, its not like I am beating on it with the bar. It's to prevent turning, torquing the bolt is a smooth action. Smooth and constant tension.

 

[Oregonsledder]

Lol, its not like I am beating on it with the bar. It's to prevent turning, torquing the bolt is a smooth action. Smooth and constant tension.

I get it that you are not beating on it, but if you had the clutch off you had to hold it with something, and the removal process can and most times requires a LOT of pull on a long wrench. I would not recommend anyone try to use a puller with a pry bar stuck into the clutch as a way to hold it during removal. I'm assuming that's what you did to remove it or you would have had something else to hold it when torquing the bolt.

 

[BILTIT]

1/2" ratchet with socket is all I use to pop the clutch off.

 

[BILTIT]

I wouldnt recommend a bar to the average person either. I forget that not everyone has years of wrenching under their belt.

 

[richracer1]

I wouldnt recommend a bar to the average person either. I forget that not everyone has common sense.

Fixed it for you. LOL


"use a little anti seizure" - That's funny.

 

[BILTIT]

Haha, agreed!

 

[ak]

Does anybody know why Polaris put oil on the crank stub? I've removed a couple of clutches and there all like this. I talked to the dealer and they say it like that on all the newer sleds.