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power claw with 8 tooth works great

Wyorider-- When you installed 8 tooth involute drivers, were you able to keep the rails stock or did you have to trim the rail tips back?

Do you have any pictures of the install? specifically the drivers, and driver to track interface.

With no extros, are you running the stock Polaris track tension spec or are you running something different? Any issues with ratcheting?

I had a PC (80 duro) on my Nytro and loved it for Tahoe snow.


Mountainhorse-- Not discounting your findings on the two identical Dragon's with 7 tooth and 8 tooth drivers, just playing devil's advocate, but if they were geared the same (chaincase) the 8 Tooth driver would have essentially been geared higher. Would that not account for some of the 30 degree clutch temp differences?
 
Wyorider-- When you installed 8 tooth involute drivers, were you able to keep the rails stock or did you have to trim the rail tips back?

Do you have any pictures of the install? specifically the drivers, and driver to track interface.

With no extros, are you running the stock Polaris track tension spec or are you running something different? Any issues with ratcheting?

I had a PC (80 duro) on my Nytro and loved it for Tahoe snow.


Mountainhorse-- Not discounting your findings on the two identical Dragon's with 7 tooth and 8 tooth drivers, just playing devil's advocate, but if they were geared the same (chaincase) the 8 Tooth driver would have essentially been geared higher. Would that not account for some of the 30 degree clutch temp differences?

With the involute drivers there is no need to change or cut rails for the reason they are in the same spot as stock and only slightly larger.

For pics I will post them as soon as I can but I bet it won’t be tell this next weekend.

At first the track is a lil tighter than I would like but after a few rides I just use what I think is best which should be around Polaris’s spec. I have not let the track get to lose to be able to ratchet.
 
Mountainhorse-- Not discounting your findings on the two identical Dragon's with 7 tooth and 8 tooth drivers, just playing devil's advocate, but if they were geared the same (chaincase) the 8 Tooth driver would have essentially been geared higher. Would that not account for some of the 30 degree clutch temp differences?

Murph,

It's always good to play the devil' s advocate IMO.

The 8 tooth was setup with 19-42 (2.21:1) and the 7 tooth was setup with 20-39 gearing (1.95:1) The FINAL drive was nearly the same taking into account the difference in the driver diameter.... so I think that the clutch temp change would not be due to the gearing.

In the Tahoe snow we both spend most of our time in... the clearance does make a difference in how the sled performs...But on the PRO, there is no inexpensive or easy solution to increase clearance.

I would run the PC Track in our snow if I had the chance... even with the 8 tooth drivers...IMO. even with the stock clearance... the stiffness of the PC track offsets the drag of that... I'd like to be able to run more clearance, but at this point... the only way to do that is with a longer chaincase and there are plus' and minus' to that as well.

I'd really like to see a conservative lengthened chaincase...say 5/8" to 3/4" drop with no real roll so that the top clearance can match the front... But I really don't see that happening... With the jackshaft almost laying on the bulkhead already, any kind of D&R kit is not practical.
 
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A couple points:

The Avid drivers are actually smaller than 3.00 (2.90 or so; I believe they do this to cut down on vibration as I recall) so... there is really not much difference at all between stock 2.86 and the Avids if memory serves correct. Certainly wouldn't hurt to run the stockers first with a PC!!!

Seems to me you can just cut the tips off the 5.1 and come out with a very good all-around track without all this tomfoolery!

Have FUN!

G MAN
 
You are correct using the stock drivers will give you more clearance than using the proper 3.00” pitch drivers.

With the pc with 3.00 drivers it defiantly goes better than the 5.1 track
and, if you gear it down to 19 it is really close to the same ratio

Thanks
 
A couple points:

The Avid drivers are actually smaller than 3.00 (2.90 or so; I believe they do this to cut down on vibration as I recall) so... there is really not much difference at all between stock 2.86 and the Avids if memory serves correct. Certainly wouldn't hurt to run the stockers first with a PC!!!

Seems to me you can just cut the tips off the 5.1 and come out with a very good all-around track without all this tomfoolery!

Have FUN!

G MAN

Have a PC on a cat and love it, with the tips (how much) cut off, what would the difference in lug height be, and whats the comparison for stiffness ?
 
I have a CE on my assault, not a ton of clearance, but fits fine. Only rubbing I noticed was during hard braking at the end of the second ride. Track had stretched a bit by then and needed adjustment.
Seems to work great, but have not been riding with a pro yet to compare to the 5.1. Rode with a new hcr with a pc and they seemed very comparable, but the snow was pretty easy to get around in.

I hope to have time to inspect the amount of clearance on top of the drivers this weekend.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
 
Power claw with 8 tooth works great

I'd be carefull using drivers made for the '06-10 Polaris shaft on the 2011. The 2011 shaft is about .125" smaller in diameter and I would think that there would be a possibility of the drivers walking on the shaft.
 
Does Avid offer the new ProRMK driver for a PC as an involute only?
Or is it just a matter of cutting the extros off the current Avid combo driver?--I hate the idea of that.
 
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