Powderlites excessive oil use when cold.

[TTE]

First of make 100% sure you have a 0.035" orfice in the oil feed line to the turbo.

Easy way to check if oil return pump is doing is job:
- pull the oil return hose underneath the turbo
- attach a rubber hose with same ID to oil drain on the turbo
- run both hoses to a clear bottle
- fill the bottle up with a little motor oil - same as engine is using
- fire up the baby
- rev the engine
- if pump is working correct the pump should be able to drain the bottle - both at idle and with higher rpm

If it's not working - make sure that there is no debrise in the pump, or return lines and that the ground wire on the oil pump secured really good.

I don't know how the PL return pump is wired. But on the bender RX-1 turbo kit I wired the oil return pump so I could run the return pump on the KEY without starting the engine. That way I could take out any oil pressure in the oil feedline after engine is shut off. May be the oil catch can under the turbo isn't big enough to drain the pressure in the feedline after engine is shut off? If so oil wil find the easiest way - could that be past you seals over time?

 

[powderlites]

Ron Nytro blowing oil

Ron put in Yamaha 0-30S oil and Remember to warm sled up before you try to load it when so cold and the oil can't return back to motor.
Seals on these turbos don't useally fail since I have worked on them.
Always intake filter plugged up or oil not able to return from turbo.
We are taking a look at Nytro turbo oil return system and are goig to try same pump at rear of sled for it is better to push the oil back then suck it back to front of sled.
We have had a few guys with straight amsoil blowing oil by the rings.
Need to have motor well broken in on that oil.
Yes we are busy but we always try our best to give good service and I feel we have a great team of guys that take pride in our work.

 

[rknight111]

Ron put in Yamaha 0-30S oil and Remember to warm sled up before you try to load it when so cold and the oil can't return back to motor.

There is Yamaha 0-30S (silver semi-sythetic) I buy it by the case. And it warms up always first and is not turned off untill its ran for a minute or two. Usually go through 1L every weekend at least of oil.

Otherwise with the new program that Dave gave me it works alot better, he has tweeked it a bit too recently and Im waiting for that.

 

[rknight111]

do you have any oil line flow reducers?? I had some excess oil and had to put 2 80 pilot jets in the oil line.

I found these online today. I just have to find 80's now.

 

[Lococoin]

make sure you have this orifice in there:

To me it sounds like you are getting too much oil volume and pressure on the turbo feed line.

 

[Turbo Monster]

There is Yamaha 0-30S (silver semi-sythetic) I buy it by the case. And it warms up always first and is not turned off untill its ran for a minute or two. Usually go through 1L every weekend at least of oil.

Otherwise with the new program that Dave gave me it works alot better, he has tweeked it a bit too recently and Im waiting for that.

A liter a weekend.That seems alot.I never have to add anything to my Alpine RX1

 

[SLY]

With all that oil mist coming out of your blow-off it's surprising that you're not having belt issues. I had a guy blowing oil by the seals last winter during a -30 spell but all was Ok after a good defrost and cleaning. If the oil isn't getting back it's gonna leak past the seals to the intake side. If you weren't having the problem before I would suspect the return system.

 

[SylvanLaker]

I just pulled my charge tube and found about 100ml of oil in it. I am running amsoil, never knew I had this problem. I am moving my oil pump to the rear and changing to a mineral oil to break in the turbo..

 

[M5-]

The following is clipped right off Garrett's web site. You have to use an oil restrictor on any of the GT series ball bearing turbos where you have good oil pressure like 40lbs. The oriface needs to be 0.040" or a # 60 drill bit. You can buy fittings already made. I was under the impression that PL was already doing this.

M5

From Garrett:


Ball Bearing Turbo

An oil restrictor is recommended for optimal performance with ball bearing turbochargers. Oil pressure of 40 - 45 psi at maximum engine speed is recommended to prevent damage to the turbocharger’s internals. In order to achieve this pressure, a restrictor with a 0.040' orifice will normally suffice, but you should always verify the oil pressure entering the turbo after the restrictor in insure that the components are functioning properly.
Recommended oil feed is -3AN or -4AN line or hose/tubing with a similar ID. As always, use an oil filter that meets or exceeds the OEM specifications.




OIL LEAKAGE SHOULD NOT OCCUR ON A PROPERLY FUNCTIONING
SYSTEM IF RESTRICTOR IS NOT USED UNLESS THE SYSTEM
PRESSURE IS EXCESSIVELY HIGH.

Oil Drain
In general, the larger the oil drain, the better. However, a -10AN is typically sufficient
for proper oil drainage, but try not to have an inner diameter smaller than the drain hole
in the housing as this will likely cause the oil to back up in the center housing. Speaking
of oil backing up in the center housing, a gravity feed needs to be just that! The oil
outlet should follow the direction of gravity +/-35° when installed in the vehicle on level
ground. If a gravity feed is not possible, a scavenge pump should be used to insure that
oil flows freely away from the center housing.
Avoid:

Undulations in the line or extended lengths parallel to the ground
Draining into oil pan below oil level
Dead heading into a component behind the oil pan
Area behind the oil pan (windage tray window) where oil sling occurs from crankshaft

When installing your turbocharger, insure that the turbocharger axis of rotation is parallel
to the level ground within +/- 15°. This means that the oil inlet/outlet should be within
15° of being perpendicular to level ground.

 

[SylvanLaker]

thx for the info M5, we both have the restictor and both our setups are the same to everyone elses kits. so it's something else. I could be bad seals! I am mounting the pump in the rear right now and changing oil, so we'll see. If this does not fix it, then Dave will have to get me a new turbo core as it has been leaking from day one..

 

[deepbreather]

thx for the info M5, we both have the restictor and both our setups are the same to everyone elses kits. so it's something else. I could be bad seals! I am mounting the pump in the rear right now and changing oil, so we'll see. If this does not fix it, then Dave will have to get me a new turbo core as it has been leaking from day one..

Any word on how the re-mount is working for you?

 

[rknight111]

So its warmer today and I started my sled, it still blows oil everywhere from the mufflers and out of the bottom of the intercooler, the engine is still burning oil as well. I checked the Oil return pump and its running, took it off and turned the key not a drop coming out. Then removed it completely and put a pipe on one end and placed in oil to see if it would pump and nothing, so Its dead. Went inside to do some internet research and found the pump, A Facet Posi Flow Fuel Pump. http://www.facet-purolator.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=category&sectionid=7&id=13&Itemid=35 Also found it pushes better than it pulls, so I gather its working quite hard pulling for 3+ feet. So I will relocate that pump closer to the turbo. Found the pump at Napa for about $80.00. Mabie with the cold temps we had it finished off the pump. I looked into the MCX pump that goes on the mag side of the engine, it mounts on the crank, this would be about $700 for the pump, then I would have to get hoses and the install, so that should be around a $1K bill. I will have to go that direction later as thats a good hit to take. But im sure thats the best overall way to go.

 

[BigFish BC]

yes thats the reason mcx went away from the electric pump they had to many probs, there pump is pretty cool little unit.

 

[SylvanLaker]

Pics!!

Here are the pictures of where our shop mounted the oil pump. We rode the sled in -15 deg temps for two hours. I will be pulling the charge tube tonight and reporting on if this worked. I suspect this is the fix.

 

[SylvanLaker]

For those of you wondering, I pulled the charge tube and found only some residual oil from before. I ran the sled for about 2-3hrs hard in -15 deg weather. No oil in intercooler or charge tube. Granted in the mountains you are under boost more so that will be the real test. but it does appear to work better mounted in the rear. The powderlites kit is a very nice kit, I think just the oil pump location needs to change. All kits have their issues now and then.

 

[rknight111]

I purchaced a new pump and relocated it to the front of the turbo and put a heat shield to keep the heat down and its working great. Drained the Yamaha Oil and put in Amsoil and no issues anymore. I pulled it out of the trailer and it was -29 and drove into the garage and there was no oil blowing out like before. So I would say that fixed that issue. I will take some pictures and post.

 

[deepbreather]

Ron, can we see a photo of the install please?