I can do a little checking on Monday. I was thinking some CBR's were using something similar, but I'm not positive on that. Seems like I already checked, but will look into it again.
Possible Napa fix for the spendy CFI fuel filter
- Thread starter EricW
- Start date
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EricW
Well-known member
As soon as you get here Hombre. Maybe you should add the Kettle Falls dot to your mapping by the nunbers road map. Gonna start boosting Josh's sled tomorrow that someone will have to test it out, i'm not riding no white hood Dragon.
Yesterday in BC
Better hurry. EW
Same type of setup on 4 sleds here. 3 of them turbo sleds. 2 of the originals were plugged badly when we did the 2010 top end update. If you use the following parts it will allow you to mount the filter to the side of the belt guard, and I noticed that the plastic inlet line underneath the filter tries to kink if it is not supported or held up. I used a plastic 90 degree fitting on the inlet side of the filter 5/16 on the barb side/ 3/8 quick disconnect for filter inlet, and a straight 5/16 quick disconnect at the tank. car quest filter #86487. Throw away plastic line. Includes metal bracket and filter costs about $15. It also will allow for a tight fit with a not turbo sled because it is mounted away from the airbox. WAAAY more filter capacity, about 3k miles on the sleds with no problems. If you want to reuse bracket, use a 3/8 in/3/8 out common gm efi quick disconnect filter from then on.
I was looking into doing this, and I ran across an idea....
Since the clearance is an issue for those of us with an airbox, what about putting in a whole new line down to the lower fuel rail, with the correct quick disconnect fitting for whatever filter you decide. This would allow that line to be longer, and thus move the filter to a different location. Sure, you'd have to buy more hose, and another clamp, and another fitting, but.... the benefit here is that you can put the silly filter anywhere you want!
any feedback?
PE
Since the clearance is an issue for those of us with an airbox, what about putting in a whole new line down to the lower fuel rail, with the correct quick disconnect fitting for whatever filter you decide. This would allow that line to be longer, and thus move the filter to a different location. Sure, you'd have to buy more hose, and another clamp, and another fitting, but.... the benefit here is that you can put the silly filter anywhere you want!
any feedback?
PE
fuel filter option
After reading this thread I thought I would make a trip down to the parts store to try this information out. I bought the 5/16 fuel line couplers, the 5/16 efi fuel hose, the clamps and a fram fuel filter. After assembling all of the pieces I notice the 5/16 coupler that clips onto the inlet of the fuel filter, there is not enough room between the coupler and the filter to get the removing tool in there to remove the filter next time. I had to get my grinder out and cut off the coupler from the filter. I then decided to put a double flare on the end of the inlet tube of the fuel filter using my brake tube flare kit. I thought the flare would be the same as the end of the 5/16 coupler. Then I installed the fuel line directly onto the filter with a clamp. I have not installed it to test it yet. I think this is a simpler assembly, and will be a little cheaper by eliminating one coupler. What do you think?
After reading this thread I thought I would make a trip down to the parts store to try this information out. I bought the 5/16 fuel line couplers, the 5/16 efi fuel hose, the clamps and a fram fuel filter. After assembling all of the pieces I notice the 5/16 coupler that clips onto the inlet of the fuel filter, there is not enough room between the coupler and the filter to get the removing tool in there to remove the filter next time. I had to get my grinder out and cut off the coupler from the filter. I then decided to put a double flare on the end of the inlet tube of the fuel filter using my brake tube flare kit. I thought the flare would be the same as the end of the 5/16 coupler. Then I installed the fuel line directly onto the filter with a clamp. I have not installed it to test it yet. I think this is a simpler assembly, and will be a little cheaper by eliminating one coupler. What do you think?
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EricW
Well-known member
Man I hate to have to admit this, but, I think when I got the filter it had a plastic removal tool on the nipple behind the cap. I'll bet like me you pulled it off then hooked the hose up. I think it is meant to stay in place then all you do is slide it down at filter change time to remove the old one.
It was a while back but as I read these I think I remember seeing something on there that I thought was a protector or something. I bet it was the removal tool needed that was just meant to live between filling and the filter until you need it.
If that is it I hope everyone else will chime in so I'm not the lone dork. If not I am used to being the lone dork so thats OK too. lol. EW
It was a while back but as I read these I think I remember seeing something on there that I thought was a protector or something. I bet it was the removal tool needed that was just meant to live between filling and the filter until you need it.
If that is it I hope everyone else will chime in so I'm not the lone dork. If not I am used to being the lone dork so thats OK too. lol. EW
Yes this fuel line coupler had the plastic sleave inside the end to remove it. But I had to remove it so it would clip onto the filter. If I didn't it would depress the plastic sleave and would release the dogs that retain the hose on. Maybe a different filter manufacturer it would be different clearance.
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cam-shaft
New member
Good write up. An oetiker clamp is a better option or go to a hydraulic shop and have a hose made up. You may be able to just use your hose that is on the polaris filter and cut the filter end off and install a new efi quick disconnect end. http://www.oetiker.com/content.asp?l=4&idNavig=25
Does anyone know what the micron rating of the factory filter is?
Thanks,Cam-shaft.
Does anyone know what the micron rating of the factory filter is?
Thanks,Cam-shaft.
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Yeah, with the parts I listed, you want to leave that little plastic clip in there. it's meant to say put, and then you don't need a tool to take it off. If you do need the tool, they come in a pack of all different sizes for like $10 at the NAPA or CQ stores. then you have all the sizes you might need, and you'll be able to use them on the return side that doesn't have the clippy-thing in it.
PE
PE
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Clarke673
Somewhere between too dumb to quit and flat earth
for all you guys worried about there not being enough room, well there is but it is tight. I removed the stock filter and the plastic mount that holds it to the air box and put the filter where the stock one is. It took me a good hour to get everything the way i wanted.
My only concern is that i think the stearing post might be to close to the box now as the filter moves the box over a slight bit. My filter was causing my sled to have DET problems, so thanks alot for the thread.
Ohh, and i found that i only needed two hose clamps, instead of the 4 that were reccomended.
My only concern is that i think the stearing post might be to close to the box now as the filter moves the box over a slight bit. My filter was causing my sled to have DET problems, so thanks alot for the thread.
Ohh, and i found that i only needed two hose clamps, instead of the 4 that were reccomended.
TTT.
ttt
J
jols
New member
...I know... I think i'de rather ride a bike wearing a dirty diaper than buy another one of those ridiculously overpriced fuel filters this season!!!
TTT
