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Polaris P85 Drive Clutch Service/Setup/BluePrinting

Just a couple more thoughts on belts & side clearance measurements.
Your new IQ 7 & 8 comes from Poo with the 115 belt. Many of you will purchase the 080 belt for a spare & that's fine except that at some point you may start using the spare belt & that will change belt side clearance. Even the 115 belts aren't the same width so changing belts may require a change to side clearance. (Changing to an A/Mkt weight can change side clearance too.)
This makes a good argument for spending the extra $ for another 115 belt & try to get 2 that are the same width. Another argument for the 115 is that they are nearly indestructable so they won't blow up putting stess on the crank. Normally, the 115 will wear until it's too narrow rather than grenade like the 080.
So if you are adding an A/M clutch kit from Carl's or SLP then put in the new weights before checking side clearance. In a perfect world you should also break-in the belts or at least recheck clearance after you have some miles on your belts. Yes.......belts.......break-in the spare belt as well as the one on the sled.
And don't forget to scrub both belts to remove the mold release agent. I use a powder cleanser like BonAmi, wire brush & lots of hot water.
The clutch & belts are a good place to get a little ANAL!!!!



On the underlined. Also the ultimax xs-809 is a tough belt. When my crank ripped off the belt I was using was an 809 and no damage to it. It actually held the ripped off clutch in place preventing it from shooting out of hood or into the fender.
 
The biggest issue I've seen with people not being able to get the clutch to pop off is because they were not using a long enough/good enough breaker bar. I had an 18" 1/2" drive Husky breaker bar for awhile and it always took me to have to use water and get it on its side to get that thing to pop off. Now with my 24" Snap on 1/2" dr breaker bar I can pop it off without water and the sled just sitting normal. Amazing the difference the extra leverage and quality of the tool made.

X2, I found out that my puller was also just long enough to get the clutches off, but it was also hanging up inside the clutch. It wasn't until that it started to wear the annodizing off that I realized that I needed to machine part of it a smaller diameter.
 
Clutch Balancing

Will be going over my clutch soon. Only has 850 miles on it. Off a 2009 D8. Still wondering about the balancing issue? If everything checks out, should it be balanced? If I should have it balance, I need to know of a shop that does that is reasonably close to home. I live in Terrace BC. No shops in town do snowmobile clutch balancing. Anybody know of a reputable shop that is closer than Southern BC or Washington? Thanks!!
 
Warranty

Read through this entire post. A multitude of great informative information. However, with all these warranty issues lingering, would all of this have to be performed by a Polaris dealer to not void the warranty? Replacing weights, setting proper belt side clearance, etc...?
 
well if u ask polaris tech yes..


I just do my own work on my clutches... and call my dealer


and tell them to write down what i did.. so they have a record!

and it looks like the dealer did the work!
 
RK Tek

Unfortunately Kelsey sold out of his custom helix', which apparently is the BOMB.....he's going to make more if there is more interest!

I for one am very keen, so if anyone else has been contemplating one (they do come highly recommended on these threads) then please contact them and order one, so I can get mine...

Longgold
 
Shimming??

Posted this in the clutching forum, kinda slow there..

Ok so everyone says to shim spider for correct side clearance on your clutch/belt. I know about engagement with small vs. big clearance.

But what about the position of the weight?

If you bought a cover with a side-clearance adjustment you could get your tight fit without shimming the spider any different, and the weights position would be different for say 1:1 ratio vs. a re-shimmed clutch.

Any thoughts on what works better in the steep and deep??

RS
 
Posted this in the clutching forum, kinda slow there..

Ok so everyone says to shim spider for correct side clearance on your clutch/belt. I know about engagement with small vs. big clearance.

But what about the position of the weight?

If you bought a cover with a side-clearance adjustment you could get your tight fit without shimming the spider any different, and the weights position would be different for say 1:1 ratio vs. a re-shimmed clutch.

Any thoughts on what works better in the steep and deep??

RS

Back in the old days, Marv Jorgenson of Chopper City Sports had a cheap kit that included plastic shims of varying thickness you would put under the clutch bolt washer to adjust the belt to sheave. This worked pretty good and didn't add a bunch of mass to the clutch with big knob thingies and set screws. To do the same on an 800 with the raised hat, it would take a custom bolt and a custom tee bushing, I think.
 
Back in the old days, Marv Jorgenson of Chopper City Sports had a cheap kit that included plastic shims of varying thickness you would put under the clutch bolt washer to adjust the belt to sheave. This worked pretty good and didn't add a bunch of mass to the clutch with big knob thingies and set screws. To do the same on an 800 with the raised hat, it would take a custom bolt and a custom tee bushing, I think.

Thanks Rick, thought of using shims myself. But my question goes to the "other side" of this, spider position.

Shimming spider or cover in nets the same result in belt clearance, but will differ in roller position relative to weight pivot-point.
Now, since belt side-clearance can be adjuted by other means, what is best (for mountain riding)? A minimum of shims or the spider further out?

Rune
 
Thanks Rick, thought of using shims myself. But my question goes to the "other side" of this, spider position.

Shimming spider or cover in nets the same result in belt clearance, but will differ in roller position relative to weight pivot-point.
Now, since belt side-clearance can be adjuted by other means, what is best (for mountain riding)? A minimum of shims or the spider further out?

Rune

The shim thing typically results in pretty harsh engagement IIRC. So, it "untucks" weight. You get better engagement quality with shimming the spider and end up "heeling" the weights to regain a little engagement rpm without losing nice engagement. I don't know enough about the whole tucked vs untucked thing - in its most basic form, the wieght is a curved lever with a cg a certain distance from the pin and the center of the clutch shaft simultaneously. I think by the time you get enough pinch to move the sled, both versions are in very nearly the same physical position, assuming you started with the same belt to sheave. It's possible that the difference would be in the moveable sheave position where equal pinch is acheived. This would probably affect the initiation of engagement/sled movement but after that it's all centrifugal force from some physics formulas. Maybe someone else can chime in with their experience with tucked vs untucked weights - I certainly could stand to get smarter on the subject.
 
800 PRO Slick Shift Drive Clutch Washer

If anyone is having spring problems with their new Polaris , This has been becoming a big problem and these washers have seemed to solve it. Spider seems softer & sharp spring edge hooks the aluminum & coil binds the spring.

I have a few hundred of them made up.


Dan

Slick Shift Washers 006.jpg
 
So is that a washer like the ones they put in the older Team TSS-04 and TSS-98? I have been having some problems with the springs catching and getting chewed up and then sacking out on one side. Even the SLP blue/pink did that.
 
So is that a washer like the ones they put in the older Team TSS-04 and TSS-98? I have been having some problems with the springs catching and getting chewed up and then sacking out on one side. Even the SLP blue/pink did that.

Yes exactly the same concept.... EXCEPT !! The ones you buy from Indy Specialty will not look as nice they will not be de-burred they are sliced off with a parting tool as fast as they can be done. If I hire someone to stand around and make them look pretty like a TEAM driven one I would have to triple the price & it would still be a loss.

I sell them in a pak of 3 for $30.00 plus $5.00 shipping, each clutch needs 1 washer.......... 2 is a waste of money 1 will do the same thing and it does not matter which side of the spring you put it on. you can sell the other ones to your riding pals. ** ( But Consider this ) ** If it happens to be a harmonic problem rather then a binding problem then 2 washers one on each end of the spring may icolate it enough from the metal to metal contact..... in effect may save the spring from taking the Oprea singer wine glass explosion.

If this seems to high someone else is welcome to jump on board and deal with all that goes on with the phone, invoicing, running credit cards, & shipping washers.


If you want them please e-mail me where you want them shipped and a phone number and I will call you for payment.

Simpler yet send a paypal payment of $35.00 to indydan1@hotmail.com
and type in a note that you want a pak of 3 Slick Shift Washer they will ship the same day.

Dan
 
TTT For George

Lots to ponder here for ya!

Go to the first page and have a look through the whole thread.
 
this is a tool we madeout of a 5/16th bolt
cut the head off and cut a slice down the end
and insurt emory cloth and it fits in your drill or diegrinder
to clean the inside taper of the clutch
View attachment 116228

View attachment 116229

View attachment 116230

:jaw:

No, Just. No.

The matching tapers on these clutches/shaft have very fine tolerances, that is why a cone will lock into a convex, steel on steel.

IMHO anything more than a White Scotch-Brite and alot of Elbow Grease is a mistake.
 
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