Over in the mountain/deep powder section I have a thread running offering to take my scale and go riding with any other brand and have a weigh off - not one taker!
Painted Tunnels?
- Thread starter bkpa
- Start date
Over in the mountain/deep powder section I have a thread running offering to take my scale and go riding with any other brand and have a weigh off - not one taker!
I did the decals on the side of my pro (removed for tunnel support,) honestly never again will I do it myself haha.
Had Arctic FX print and cut mine. So all I had to do is peel back the backing and stick it on. The onlything was getting it started straight. No cutting.
I have an Arctic FX wrap sitting the box waiting for the season to end (or maybe next fall...). I'm happy to hear that it isn't too much of a job.
Anyone have any comparisons between PRO painted tunnel and PRO wrapped tunnel????
It is fact that the pro holds more snow in most snow conditions than a newer cat or xm. However the extremes shown in the cat and yamahacat videos are a bit more than I can believe.
It is fact that the pro holds more snow in most snow conditions than a newer cat or xm. However the extremes shown in the cat and yamahacat videos are a bit more than I can believe.
I've just painted my tunnel with U-Tech (Imron equal), catalized single stage urethane panit... I've used it on my past dragon with great success.
Painted the entire tunnel and bulkhead... Inside and out (double paint in inside at front).
Masked off the coolers inside the tunnel and all the threaded fixtures.
I chose this over powdercoat at the same cost if a shop were to have done both.
First... the paint is super tough... same paint the airlines use on many of their planes... and at least as tough as powder coat.
Second.. I don't have to worry if the powdercoater leaves the chassis in too long and weakens it... or bakes it at too high of temp and weakens it.
You can have a body shop paint for the same price as a pow shop can coat if you clean and prep your self before bringing in.
Prep was the same... super thorough clean (I chose to steam clean and use a strong degreaser) ... then etch with Aluma-Prep and scotchbrite all the edges etc.
Then a very good etching primer... then the paint.
In the front sides of the tunnel from the footwells to about 12" rearward...I'm also using SPG's Clear "Ice Breaker" film in the high wear areas.. same as I have in powder coated tunnels in the past.
http://www.skinzprotectivegear.com/snowmobileproductad/accessories.html
.
Painted the entire tunnel and bulkhead... Inside and out (double paint in inside at front).
Masked off the coolers inside the tunnel and all the threaded fixtures.
I chose this over powdercoat at the same cost if a shop were to have done both.
First... the paint is super tough... same paint the airlines use on many of their planes... and at least as tough as powder coat.
Second.. I don't have to worry if the powdercoater leaves the chassis in too long and weakens it... or bakes it at too high of temp and weakens it.
You can have a body shop paint for the same price as a pow shop can coat if you clean and prep your self before bringing in.
Prep was the same... super thorough clean (I chose to steam clean and use a strong degreaser) ... then etch with Aluma-Prep and scotchbrite all the edges etc.
Then a very good etching primer... then the paint.
In the front sides of the tunnel from the footwells to about 12" rearward...I'm also using SPG's Clear "Ice Breaker" film in the high wear areas.. same as I have in powder coated tunnels in the past.
http://www.skinzprotectivegear.com/snowmobileproductad/accessories.html
.
Geo... I probably added around 2.5 - 3 lbs in paint, just a hair more than a pint of color/catalyst... about 8-10 oz in primer (dusting) . I put extra in the tunnel till I was out of paint... I'll save more in built up snow, easily, as has been my experience in the past.
Built up snow weight is important to me... that is why I never look at a front tunnel cooler as a weight penalty. Ice is heavy.
Click on the link for description.
Does not form around things... good for flat surfaces or something without compound bends and/or contoured surfaces. Durability... awesome... it is the similar to what they sell as headlight protective film.
Built up snow weight is important to me... that is why I never look at a front tunnel cooler as a weight penalty. Ice is heavy.
Click on the link for description.
Does not form around things... good for flat surfaces or something without compound bends and/or contoured surfaces. Durability... awesome... it is the similar to what they sell as headlight protective film.
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G
geo
Well-known member
Thanx MH. I understand the snow thing. I was around when they went from painted to raw lol and cooling systems were capable of riding all day on ice before scratchers.
Back then it was hyped to be around 5Lb weight loss and 500lbs on the floor was light with 800's still in the distant future.
They've come a long way,eh.
I'll be interested in the weights posted next year of some of the hy-breds. I've been weighing sleds for 25 plus years lol. Not because weight is everything but to compare and add to my list of sled weights.
A Viper is light compared to a '97 Mach Z LT lol. My `13 Pro is 50 lbs lighter than a '92 Phazer LT lol.
I`ve never thought that 10 or 20 lb`s is too much difference (except in the commercials) unless I have a personal goal. Really we are at 700 to 900 lb`s on the snow.
I do care when someone says I weight 124 lbs more when I chose to ignore 51.6 lbs actual though lol.
Back then it was hyped to be around 5Lb weight loss and 500lbs on the floor was light with 800's still in the distant future.
They've come a long way,eh.
I'll be interested in the weights posted next year of some of the hy-breds. I've been weighing sleds for 25 plus years lol. Not because weight is everything but to compare and add to my list of sled weights.
A Viper is light compared to a '97 Mach Z LT lol. My `13 Pro is 50 lbs lighter than a '92 Phazer LT lol.
I`ve never thought that 10 or 20 lb`s is too much difference (except in the commercials) unless I have a personal goal. Really we are at 700 to 900 lb`s on the snow.
I do care when someone says I weight 124 lbs more when I chose to ignore 51.6 lbs actual though lol.
Just go paint your aluminum grain scoop shovel to see how much difference it makes. I've done it and paint only makes a difference with certain types of snow at certain temperatures at certain humidity. The snow sticks like crazy to the painted auger blades in my snow blower when the snow is right around freezing and wet. Go above or below that temperature and it isn't a problem.
The whole painted tunnel thing isn't worth worrying about and I recall Ski-doo saying in their specs they saved around 2 lbs by not painting the chassis on their '97 MXZx 440 race sled when it came out. That is weight savings all the time. I've got some older Ski-doo's where the powder coating is coming off the steel parts in sheets and looks like ****.
I'll take an unpainted tunnel and chassis.
The whole painted tunnel thing isn't worth worrying about and I recall Ski-doo saying in their specs they saved around 2 lbs by not painting the chassis on their '97 MXZx 440 race sled when it came out. That is weight savings all the time. I've got some older Ski-doo's where the powder coating is coming off the steel parts in sheets and looks like ****.
I'll take an unpainted tunnel and chassis.
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