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Overly strong A arms.......

The Nytro A arms are tough alright. So tough that the subframe pretzels before they even bend. Was crossing a creek today and halfway up the far bank one ski punched through into a void and me and the sled came to an abrupt stop. No visible damage, except my knee that will be sore for a week and a ski that was just about 3" to far back. Still handled fine, got her back to the shop and all apart, the steel subframe is bent, not a single other part seems even stressed. Not to tough of a repair, same hit on my last sled (rev) would have meant a horrible NUN replacement. Better still the "Front frame assembly" is on back order with no ETA. $540.00 in parts and 4 hours or labor. I love sledding Woo Woo. If the part don't show next week I will ride it crooked. Was bombing three plus feet of sweet savory powder before and after the tussle. Guess I can't complain, at least I got my suspension dial prior to the piule up.

Better luck to everyone else this weekend Cheers!
 
The beauty of steel is you can heat it and straighten it out if you know someone with a torch and some steel working experience you should be able to make her good as new in no time.

Cheers.......
 
The bend is in the large lower tube behind where the two lower A arms connect, and the box bracket that the steering post terminates in is also tweeked. If it were a simple bend I would just heat it and beat it, but the whole damn thing is wracked out of killter. I deffinatly am not going to toss it, I might be able to get it sraight enogh for a back up as I have been known to break stuff! I have deffinatly spent more money fixing sleds that are not nearly as nice as this one, I love it. I would marry it if it could hold down a job and perform just one more service.......
 
I did almost the same thing a few days ago, dropped right on a rock and my left ski buckled and the shock was pushed back into the upper a-arm and the ski was pushed back about 2". From a side view the spindle was past vertical with the top forward and the bottom back.

I used 2"x4" and put it across both aluminum ski (spindles??) then looped a piece of spectra webbing around the bottom back of the spindle below the board and another long 2"x4" vertical and levered the bottom of the spindle and ski forward 2" to where it should be. Loosened all the bolts and re-tightened and its back pretty close to were it should be. The steering joiner bushing, top shock mount and the cross bar between the shock mounts are still bent a little but didn't seem to effect handling.

I took it out for a hard ride today and everything worked and held in place. Let me know and I'll sanp some pictures of the 2"x4" lever rig.

And pick up some $15 knee motocross knee\shin pads. You'll never ride without them again.
 
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The same thing happend to me, ecxcept I turned to miss a rock and bent the spindle into a C shape, I installed the timbersled a arms and spindles but the front frame is still tweaked one spindle srtaight up and down the other at about 45 degrees. the steering post mount is wrecked also. I tired to straighten with no luck, I am still riding anyway, new front frame on order. With the turbo skis never touch the snow anyway.
 
anyone have pics of the damage on the front structure unit? my right front shock is sitting rear of center on the arms (almost like the shock is back and or the arms drove forward). the shock is centered on the the left side. trying to figure out where something is bent and see if i can straighten or adjust the part or if i need to replace something. ski
 
I wonder what that steel subframe weighs? Looks like another place to save some weight off the front. Could you save 10lbs with an aftermarket chromolly front clip? That would be cool!:D I'm sure someone will get on the bandwagon.
 
I wonder what that steel subframe weighs? Looks like another place to save some weight off the front. Could you save 10lbs with an aftermarket chromolly front clip? That would be cool!:D I'm sure someone will get on the bandwagon.

The rough rule of thumb I've found is if the part is made in the same geometry, form etc it will 1/2 the weight when made out of chrome moly and 1/3 the weight if made out of aluminum. The chrome moly at half the weight is ususally stonger than the mild steel part it replaces, the aluminum maybe not so much.

M5
 
The rough rule of thumb I've found is if the part is made in the same geometry, form etc it will 1/2 the weight when made out of chrome moly and 1/3 the weight if made out of aluminum. The chrome moly at half the weight is ususally stonger than the mild steel part it replaces, the aluminum maybe not so much.

M5

Ok, so now we just need to know how much the stock steel clip weighs.
 
A better question would be if someone were selling one that was lighter and stronger how many peoplr would buy one. (It seems like it would sell pretty wel as Yamaha does not even have stock ones to sell) I am sure I can get them made from CM for around the cost of a stock replacement.
 
A better question would be if someone were selling one that was lighter and stronger how many peoplr would buy one. (It seems like it would sell pretty wel as Yamaha does not even have stock ones to sell) I am sure I can get them made from CM for around the cost of a stock replacement.

Let us know what it weighs when you pull it out please.
 
I will weigh the new one and get a quote on fabing up a couple from CM before installing it. Untill then I put mine all back together after doing my best to pry beat and pul it back into shape. I was only able to move the arms a little bit. Still have one side 1 1/2" forward and one 2" back. I think I beter test the new geometry in the hills again soon........
 
Stock steel subframe = 17 lbs

Stock Upper A-frame = 2.5 lbs

Stock Lower A-frame = 5 lbs

Don't ask me how I know!!!! $1000 in parts and 4 hours later it was back on the snow!

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Remove the bottom inspection plate and the oil filter is right there on the backside of the motor, very easy to access and change.
 
The front sub assembly looks like a pretty complex piece. There would be some serious hours involved with making jigs and fabing brackets and gussets. That will be very spendy to reproduce.

Knowing how Yammie charges for parts, I'm suprised that fix was only a $1000!. :rolleyes:
 
To the guys who have had to replace it.

i was wondering if the front subframe is available. I had to order one from my dealer on friday but they had no idea when it would be in. I am just kind of nervous, because i have a trip coming up but my sled is in about 50 pieces waiting for this part.
 
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