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Over heating???

Agreed, but it's not the norm in this situation of what usually causes that problem.

I guess for starters the over flow hose should of been routed to a cleaner environment. It's located in the dirtiest place possible.

For some reason the secondary clutch is dirtier then the primary and the brake being there also probably adds to the filth. Something the R&D probably over looked or never addressed.

I have noticed the hose can actually get condensation in it, water droplets not coolant.

A one way check valve could help stop the contamination but I don't think it would keep it from happening in an extremely dirty area.

It's like that old saying water does run up hill and this is in a very turbulent area.
The foam is a give away of how dirty it is, below the clutch shroud it's black with grime.
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Side note also, the top where you grab it to open the panels was overlooked, foam gets damaged right away, these were damaged upon pickup. I'm sure I added because I'm not gonna treat it like a baby.
I keep my **** clean but there's a line at some time :)

Anyway,
It's a very turbulent area and the condensation of the bottle would draw I believe.

When it's running at operating temp watch the circulation in the bottle, it's pumping and hits the other side of the bottle.
 
Something that just dawned on me after thinking about the last pics , that coolant shouldn't be ORANGE like extended life coolant !!!!!! Mine is good old green ethylene glycol just went out and checked , didn't know the O.E. ' s switched to that ????????Hope they haven't , that's what block test fluid looks like when their are hydrocarbons in the cooling system !!
 

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Hawkster I don't think their is anyway for that much dirt to migrate up that tube !! It isn't like a coolant recovery system on a car which will sometimes pull coolant up the hose from the overflow bottle ? That hose is either under pressure when venting or same as atmosphere when not . My overflow hose is spotless all the way down and my coolant is GREEN not orange somethings goofy here ??!!
 
Back to the main question of cooling solutions.....I was just poking around on the web and see that MTNTK Performance makes tunnel coolers for the the Ascender/Mt Max. To me it looks like the ideal solution to this problem....I'm going to get ahold of them and ask if there's any plans to fab these for the Catalyst. I'd buy one immediately. Here's a link to their site: https://www.mtntkperformance.com/collections/arctic-cat-1/products/ascender-tunnel-cooler
I'm afraid they might not be interested in pursuing it though since Cat is in trouble at the moment. I'm pretty sure they'll get bought out by someone but who knows.
 
CR Racing in Canada did an extended cooler, first pic. Video showed them cutting off the tunnel portion and welding on their extension. And I also seen pics of a guy that put the riot cooler on a mountain sled, 2nd pic. Both posted in the 858 Catalyst group. Would think the riot cooler would be the easiest/cleanest.
 

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Looking a little closer it appears there's some Incriminating evidence by the hose outlet besides the debris around the pop off.
I'll flush after the season is over and see what happens.

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Hawkster I don't think their is anyway for that much dirt to migrate up that tube !! It isn't like a coolant recovery system on a car which will sometimes pull coolant up the hose from the overflow bottle ? That hose is either under pressure when venting or same as atmosphere when not . My overflow hose is spotless all the way down and my coolant is GREEN not orange somethings goofy here ??!!
I added red line water wetter to it a while back so it changed the color but it did not cloud it like what you are seeing.

I'll flush it when the season is over, I've been wanting to put the 900 in it so I'm not to worried.

Nice work on the tunnel coolers, Cat could of pulled thier head out of thier ass and done a spin off of Doos tunnels when they had the chance.
 
Got one for you arcticridr

flip your ski spindle rubber around 180, see if you can tell the improvement? :)

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Hmmm will have to look at that must have an effect like caster does on a car ??? Make it steer different does it ????? Inquiring minds want to know 😎😎🤣 looks to me like it adds a positive caster effect tilts a centerline drawn thru the spindle back at the top ( makes point of contact further in front of the spindle ) am I warm ???? Hard to tell by the pic , gonna get grief for being off topic lol
 
does the extended cooler take us back to ice buildup in the rear tunnel area.....so we pick up 10-15 lbs of ice plus the weight of the cooler/coolant
 
does the extended cooler take us back to ice buildup in the rear tunnel area.....so we pick up 10-15 lbs of ice plus the weight of the cooler/coolant
Likely - just another case of give and take. Really boils down to what your typical riding conditions are. I think a majority of those having issues could resolve it with the following, ranked in order:

1. a new scratcher design that mirrors Pol's new design last year. I see Doo copied it for '26 models.
2. removable snow flap, kind of pain but manageable
3. Slightly longer tunnel cooler, I don't think it needs to go full length.

Like I said above, riding in the same conditions for three days, it was much easier keeping my ascender cooler vs the catalyst. I use a similar scratcher design on both and a flap.
 
Hmmm will have to look at that must have an effect like caster does on a car ??? Make it steer different does it ????? Inquiring minds want to know 😎😎🤣 looks to me like it adds a positive caster effect tilts a centerline drawn thru the spindle back at the top ( makes point of contact further in front of the spindle ) am I warm ???? Hard to tell by the pic , gonna get grief for being off topic lol

The grief thing is on me my bad,
It would work even better if the rubber was more rigid, these don't even fit the full saddle. The spindle goes beyond the contact point even the way they call for.
It helps keep the ski in front of the spindle from walking the terrain as easily. More positive steering with less arm and shoulder pump. These are really soft but it does make a difference.

I don't know why any of the manufactures haven't addressed it, might be a sales thing, can't sell what's not broke.

There's a company that makes a stiffer bumper but they made them the mimic the stock design so the ski still rocks but not as much.

Munster offers a shim that goes under the rubber for the Doos, it eliminates counter steering. Takes a little work to get the bolt back threw but it does exactly what I'm babbling about. It takes carving to a whole different level, white knuckle speeds.
Once I pulled the skis to counter at a high speed carve and it almost threw me, like throwing out an anchor going to counter steering.
With the skis forward instead of counter with them tipped up it's easy to accelerate while carving without trenching a whole.
Try it in good snow, with them reversed, you'll be surprised and how much resistance you shaved off.
I started making my own for the Hawk because I kept blowing the stocks out. In a way I stumbled into it because I was sick of replacing them every season, can't remember the last time I put a new one in. The ski is so rigid that it does not tip down in the front at all past horizontal. Tipped up just like the Cat pic.
One ski-two skis it'll work the same when your hitting woopdeedoos it won't dart from one side to the other swapping paint:)
Again skis have long been over looked, there's a few out there now that have made some changes but thier not getting the attention.
Lynx has a ski that will rip your shoulders out, the heel is insane deep.

The ski is to float, why would you want that plank to walk. Think dirt bike, it's also why the snowbikes have steering problems but that's another story:)

Again sorry guys my bad. You guys need to try this.
 
CR Racing in Canada did an extended cooler, first pic. Video showed them cutting off the tunnel portion and welding on their extension. And I also seen pics of a guy that put the riot cooler on a mountain sled, 2nd pic. Both posted in the 858 Catalyst group. Would think the riot cooler would be the easiest/cleanest.
I emailed MTNTK and they responded this morning and said they are in fact making a tunnel cooler kit for the Catalyst and it should be available before next season. I think it's the most logical way to go. I also went to my dealer and spoke with their head tech. He acknowledged the heat issue but reminded me that the older sleds with the 800HO Suzuki would get hotter before triggering the warning. If I recall right it was 176 or something around there. Then the next step was in the 180's. The 858 starts warning you around 155 and so it's a lower threshold.
 
My snowflap mod kept me about 118 to 140 at times today mainly 140 when I was d****** around in the trees we had about anywhere from 12 to 24 in of fresh and temps were in the mid-upper twenties My problem on Evo bumper the way it slopes up the straps want to migrate up which raises the snow flap soon as my temps start going up I push the straps back to the outside and the temps drop so distance from the track is huge Next mod to the mod to the mod will be something to keep those where they're supposed to be to keep that flap 5 in from the track! Not quite through breakin yet thing rips shoulders are sore nothing was even a challenge today 😎😎
 
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Something that just dawned on me after thinking about the last pics , that coolant shouldn't be ORANGE like extended life coolant !!!!!! Mine is good old green ethylene glycol just went out and checked , didn't know the O.E. ' s switched to that ????????Hope they haven't , that's what block test fluid looks like when their are hydrocarbons in the cooling system !!
You'd have to do some digging on it, but there is a chance it's not Dex-cool or some variant. I use Zerex G05 in quite a few things (including sleds), and it's orange, but different chemistry. I like it because it plays pretty well with all metals and seal materials (aluminum in particular). Coolants get really confusing these days: I think the green stuff is usually the same old-school formula, but a lot of the "universal" stuff is actually more similar to Dex-cool. And there are something like fifteen different colors. The old green stuff isn't the best with aluminum, but doesn't seem to cause problems.
 
There’s a lot of confusion with all the coolant colors these days, but the color is really not relevant. There’s only really 3 types of coolant. IAT or inorganic acid technology, which is the good old green stuff. OAT or organic acid technology which is like dexcool and other long life coolant that most vehicles since the mid to late 90’s use, and HOAT or hybrid organic acid technology which is what the “universal” yellow coolant is and a few manufacturers (especially Asian vehicles) use, which falls somewhere between the IAT and OAT coolant. The colors are more of a manufacturer identification thing than anything, although different manufacturers may have different additives to address different water quality for different parts of the world.
 
So I decided to modify the flap, to bring the flap a little closer to the track for more efficiency. The main reason for doing this is because here in WA state they quit grooming April 1st due to the contracts with the various groomers. This means after April 1st the trails in, get really rough and slow going. Combine that with warmer weather and it can be a challenge to keep the sleds cool.

For this mod, basically I moved the mounting points for the straps upwards one hole distance. This was enough to move the flap about 3 1/2 inches closer to the track. It should be far enough back that it won't get sucked up in the track as the suspension compresses as well.
 

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Nice as usual , also nice not having to deal with raising it up and adding lengthener pieces cus of the EVO bumper !!!
 
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