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Outboard clutch support?

Interesting u say zero issues.
What if u were able to get 2-3 times as much mileage from a belt on the same 200hp sled? Wouldn't u then say that only getting 1/2-1/3 the mileage is an issue?

Not saying that is the case but only doing one thing forever doesn't provide proper evidence of issue or non issue.



[emoji12]

I was thinking performance. ?
 
Interesting u say zero issues.
What if u were able to get 2-3 times as much mileage from a belt on the same 200hp sled? Wouldn't u then say that only getting 1/2-1/3 the mileage is an issue?

Not saying that is the case but only doing one thing forever doesn't provide proper evidence of issue or non issue.



understand your point totally, however I have always changed to new belts every season, no matter how they look, as long as they make it through the riding season i'm good to go :) It's like valve springs in a race motor, if you run them for the season with zero failures, you change them for the new season and it's a done deal, I really don't care how long they "can" last as I never run them that long anyway. Plus like belts they tend to slowly go away over time and its hard to pick that up sometimes. Guess I should have stated it a bit clearer as to what I was saying.


Now another point to consider is if we lock the clutch with the support, will it twist and shift if we do not have the entire motor solid mounted ? ie is the support rigid enough to offset any flexing in the motor mounts in relation to the secondary clutch? Just more things to ponder. I would think the entire motor structure should be mounted to the clutch at both sides to eliminate any flex at all, this then brings up other issues as well. IE does the clutch belt need to be a flexible link between the motor and clutch? if you rigid mount it will you get some case distortion or not ?
 
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How much power gets lost through the clutches? I believe 30%? If the loss could be cut down to 25%, it would be a very big deal- like gaining 9 HP on a 165 HP sled. Anything that increases clutch efficiency is huge.
 
yea I think its 30% through the drive train.... but I would be willing to ponder that a lot of it is in the clutches. I bet with a proper clutching you could gain "most" of what you can gain back without the brace. not to say the brace would not help, just think you could get more out of a good clutch setup than the brace. helped a bud with a sidewinder that was blowing belts every 100-150miles when I was dun clutching it {weights, springs, helix} we were getting 5-600 miles out of them and were putting out more hp with some other mods. all im saying is theirs definitely work that needs dun to improve on stock clutching but for 1300$ I don't think that it would do as much as 500$ in re-clutching the sled.
 
yea I think its 30% through the drive train.... but I would be willing to ponder that a lot of it is in the clutches. I bet with a proper clutching you could gain "most" of what you can gain back without the brace. not to say the brace would not help, just think you could get more out of a good clutch setup than the brace. helped a bud with a sidewinder that was blowing belts every 100-150miles when I was dun clutching it {weights, springs, helix} we were getting 5-600 miles out of them and were putting out more hp with some other mods. all im saying is theirs definitely work that needs dun to improve on stock clutching but for 1300$ I don't think that it would do as much as 500$ in re-clutching the sled.


So true with Yamaha . And if you want to stop blowing belts for good put that motor back in a 800# sport bike and buy a Quality Snowmobile.

Or throw the Golf Cart away and throw it in a Pro !!
 
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