By the sounds of things on here every oil under the sun has been used with success. I think if anything that a motor that went down with oil problems was more than likely due to not using enough of it no matter what the brand. Parts can fail for numerous reasons, but a failure is guarenteed if you do not use enough oil.
Oil
- Thread starter portgrinder
- Start date
The website doesn't say anything? The just moved to a new facility in Feb/09.
http://www.torcoracingoils.com/
Read this then tell me an expensive oil is worth it.
http://snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52811&highlight=indydan
And asking an oil guys opinion over a motor guys is like as a dealership what sled is better over a racers opinion.
http://snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52811&highlight=indydan
And asking an oil guys opinion over a motor guys is like as a dealership what sled is better over a racers opinion.
R
Rob1334
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Mine was a black bottle, I thought it was like a marine/snow 2 stroke mix, not sure have to go get a car out of storage tonight and will check the brand. Wasn't either of the two you said, at least I don't think so...
I did this test. I'm not a big fan of seeing what it does under heat, as oil is all tested to perform under heat, thats what most of the research and formula is designed to work at. Take you oil outside and leave it outside on a cold night, or at least in the coldest temps you are going to ride in. leave set for a day or so. Now crack one of those open and poor it out into a cup. Does your synthetic look like tar? My cheap walmart oil doesn't, and thats why I use it. That oil needs to feed through pretty small lines when it is freezing out, and thats the biggest concern I have with the oil I buy.
As for the synthetic VS non in regular car engines, I see your point you were trying to get at, and if you want to talk similarities then, only one I will say is that I want my oil to break down and do its job.
I will not buy a synthetic that s designed to go over 6k miles before an oil change. I would rather change my oil every 2-3k miles and see that it is black but not burnt, I know it did it's job and was getting "used" where it needed to be. I hate using full synthetics just to drain it looking like the day I put it in there, what was it doing in there over all that time? But thats just my opinion, it's what I have done to all the vehicles in my family (current): 1918 Model TT, 1926 Model T, 1946 Ford Tudor, 1953 Chevy 210, 1995 Ranger, 2001 F350, 2002 Gram Am, 2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac, and will continue to as I have never had engine problems with any of my vehicles.
I agree, I dont think it is so much the brand that you use, if you buy into the expensive oils or not, but whether it gets enough oil.
Not doubting the mans knowledge of motors but he slams synthetic oils and is even going to viod the warranty if they are used and then he says that ( Most ) all crank failures are due to not warming engine up properly. PERIOD. His words not mine. Does not sound like the expensive oil is the problem to me. Any oil that meets the specs for a 2 stroke motor will work. I have used everything from cheap to expensive with no problems. Just use the correct amount of it. But then again I always warm up my motors properly.
BG makes good stuff too.........
I
Insaneboltrounder/sjohns
Well-known member
I run shell super syn and have since 2000. On 1100 tcat , sprayed cat 900 and now on my so far stockish xp. I run mobil 1 in my 650 hp boat , my 200 hp hayabusa and everyone of my trucks. If mobil made 2 stroke oil id use it. sj
So far I put the Shell synthetic, seems good, my good cylinder on my 800 was still perfect. It is getting pricey too,
I switched to Torco. Mountain magic still sells it from bulk, and is 35$ for 4L.
I switched to Torco. Mountain magic still sells it from bulk, and is 35$ for 4L.
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portgrinder
Well-known member
Intersting on the Torco. I'm coming around on those Mtn Magic guys for sure.
I should just buy a barrel of something maybe
I should just buy a barrel of something maybe
I've run shell advance synthetic religiously in my '00-700 summit since new...tore down the engine @ 5000 km to giver the old once over before installing pipes/etc. & update to the "better" pto bearing.The pistons & jugs had virtually no wear on them.Put two new bombie piston kits in it for good luck and a light hone with medium grit stones to seat the rings...She pulls 8300 rpm ,8 hours a day @ 2-6000' and now has over 15000 km on her... can't say enough good things 'bout this oil...
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Ancient Sledder
Member
Oil is a funny subject. Back in 1968 when I first started riding there was no two stroke oil. We put 30 wt car oil in the tank and bounced on the bumper to mix it. The old 12 horse Olympique ran for a long time. Did the same thing for the old dirt bikes. I agree now that we have 150+ hp engines we need better oils. I use Castrol Snowmobile in mine with no troubles at all. My brother has been using Amsoil synthetic in his with no problems. For my trucks I prefer the Castrol Syntec. Again with no problems. I don't think there is just one answer for the type of oil to use.
Been all over the map on this one... In our Yammy triples we ran nothing but Shell Advance. 5000+kms on nitrous, with ZERO issues. Looked great inside at rebuild time...
Ran Amsoil in my Rev for 5000+kms on nitrous ZERO issues. Looked great inside at rebuild time. Built an Rktek motor and Kelsey says amsoil will destroy my crank... hmmm, ok? Had 2 piston failures on the rktek junk (not oil related)
switched to Doo full syn, and it gummed up the raves like you wouldn't believe. BRP rep says don't run the Doo full syn, it will gum up the raves....? wtf
So, now I run Doo semi-syn, in the xp on nitrous, and it seems to keep the inside alot cleaner, while still providing adequate wear protection.....??
But, I ran Amsoil in all my dirtbikes, and sleds for years, and they always looked mint at rebuild time. Yes, very clean inside, but no carbon, and no scuffing, just a nice clean film of oil on everything. Sounds and looks good to me.
I think any oil nowadays has enough r&d that you will never have an oil related failure. Except, if your not getting enough of it...
Ran Amsoil in my Rev for 5000+kms on nitrous ZERO issues. Looked great inside at rebuild time. Built an Rktek motor and Kelsey says amsoil will destroy my crank... hmmm, ok? Had 2 piston failures on the rktek junk (not oil related)
switched to Doo full syn, and it gummed up the raves like you wouldn't believe. BRP rep says don't run the Doo full syn, it will gum up the raves....? wtf
So, now I run Doo semi-syn, in the xp on nitrous, and it seems to keep the inside alot cleaner, while still providing adequate wear protection.....??
But, I ran Amsoil in all my dirtbikes, and sleds for years, and they always looked mint at rebuild time. Yes, very clean inside, but no carbon, and no scuffing, just a nice clean film of oil on everything. Sounds and looks good to me.
I think any oil nowadays has enough r&d that you will never have an oil related failure. Except, if your not getting enough of it...
