Oil Pump Adjustment

[Vfrtrader]

Just a thought

The E-tec motors claims very little oil usage because of direct injection. Cfi-2 motors are semi-direct, no gas hit the crank. Therefore, maybe very little oil is needed when mixing air only with oil. If gas vapor was hitting the crank a lot more oil is needed. So maybe high ratios are normal and just fine. However, more couldn't hurt, I cranked mine a couple turns.

 

[Trxstr]

I have about 250 miles on my '12 Pro 800... When I bought it I had to fill the oil tank half way to the top. Then since then I have only had to add another 2 litres. Can you imagine 2 Litres of oil in the bottom end?? haha I can't. Visually when I look at the oil tank after a 50-100 mile ride it seems like more should be consumed but then think of 2 litres being in the bottom end again. Think I will leave it to the engineers...

 

[Seabass152]

Hullo, my name is Erik and I'm uh, not that smart....

I B confused as to which screw is the correct oil adjustment screw.

Is the attached comparison photo correct or is it backwards?

Same screw in both pic, just taken from opposite sides of the throttle bodies. 1st pic is coming in from the gas tank side and rotating the linkage back. Other shot is from the motor side.

 

[rotax]

So, what are you "3 turn" guys at for actually oil ratio?

Going to be looking at adjusting this when I get my sled back from dealer from a toasted PTO rod bearing..

Thanks for the info and pics!

 

[bowtieboy]

My 600 came set roughly flush with the nut. I initially went 3.5 turns, figured out the ratio was around 60:1. I went another 1.5 turns with it this past weekend, have yet to try it out though. Will know by the end of this weekend what it is now.

 

[mrquick68]

i'd sure like to see some more emperical evidence on what 2011 and 2012 were running for ratios stock, and then make some assumptions from there. Since only a few motors have gone down for bearing failures, i'd assume that only SOME motors are running too lean of oil ratios, and most of those seem to be 2011. Seems interesting that 2011s don't have the yellow paint on the lock nut and 2012s do? Maybe they realized the problem and added the paint to confirm the QC check was done?

Please post up factory oil usage figures if you have them.

Thanks!

 

[xc6rider]

My '12 was between 55/60:1, if not leaner. Pump alignment marks were lined up perfectly...

You simply HAVE to measure and do the math after riding, then adjust accordingly.

 

[bajah2x]

My 2011 has the paint ,you can easily adjust with only the hood off.You need a long 1/4 inch extension with a swivel and an 8 mm socket.Reach right over center of head.

 

[theletup]

My 2011 has the paint ,you can easily adjust with only the hood off.You need a long 1/4 inch extension with a swivel and an 8 mm socket.Reach right over center of head.

X2 on that. Took me about 10 minutes total to adjust it.

 

[factory_fmx]

X2 on that. Took me about 10 minutes total to adjust it.

3x on that as well, i went 3.5 in total and will be doing the math today after riding it all weekend.

 

[2XM3]

Both of my sleds 11 800 and a 12 600 took 3 to 3.5 turns to get the ratio in the 40-1 range, I still add 1/2 oz gallon premix as well, can't have to much oil till it starts runnin out the pipe...lmao

 

[Murph]

Just turned the oiler THREE TURNS on my 2012 to get it just above the line. No noticeable increase in smoke output or idle while riding.

Put 78 miles on the sled, normal amounts of idling time at warm up (120 degrees) no fouling issues. Haven't pulled the plugs yet or refilled gas tank or oil to check out ratio.

Checked one of the 2011's-- it is set a lot closer to spec. After adjusting my 2012, it needs maybe one turn to be where I set the 2012 (based on threads poking out of adjuster)

 

[Reg2view]

There were still some Q's on which screws are which in the thread, tho I think the thread has no misleading info, just needs to be read carefully. To clarify:

1. The Fourth Wolf's pics are correctly labeled - the oil pump adjustment screw - the pic on the right, and also the great pics by Sledmax on his new 12, has the nut locking a flat bladed set screw. The yellow paint is to verify the nut was set and torqued at the factory. And the 11's have it, too, exact same setup as the 12. You can loosen this nut without pulling anything on the motor with an 8mm socket and swivel and extension. Some are tight, and the plates may twist abit - use a backer or pliers to eliminate the twist. These plates are also connected to the throttle sync screws, and no twist is good twist. Righty Tighty increases oil flow. 2-3 turns usually does it for most. You'll only find 3-4 threads exposed above the nut, anyways.

2. The throttle plate sync screws are the opposing phillips head screws with the spring keepers, and located right under the oil adjuster. DO NOT jack with these, unless you want to take a trip to TPS land, also.

Hope this helps clear up the Q's. Yes, you can verify this info on pages 2.10 and 4.35 of the 11 shop manual, too. Good luck!

 

[Rocketboy]

I did 3 turns on mine last night. Have not gotten to ride it really yet before I made adjustment. Anyone have it being to much oil at 3 turns? Heading west next week and just hate to get out there and have it fouling plugs all day.

 

[factory_fmx]

I was wondering if anyone knows the formula to get your final ratio. Like as a example at 3.5 turns i burn 350ml of oil and 30 liters of fuel. What is the proper way to figure out what ratio this would be? My guess would be

30 L= 30,000 ML

30,000 / 350= 85. 714

Ratio is 85.7 L fuel : 1 L oil

please correct me if im wrong

 

[gmustangt]

I was wondering if anyone knows the formula to get your final ratio. Like as a example at 3.5 turns i burn 350ml of oil and 30 liters of fuel. What is the proper way to figure out what ratio this would be? My guess would be

30 L= 30,000 ML

30,000 / 350= 85. 714

Ratio is 85.7 L fuel : 1 L oil

please correct me if im wrong

ya your correct your ratio would be 85:1...id turn that sucker up.

using L for measurments makes it easy. 40L tank.

So you want to be using roughly a liter of oil per tank of fuel for a 40:1 ratio, as its a variable pump it will depend on how wide open you rode that day.

In a perfect world you'd like 32:1.

 

[factory_fmx]

ya your correct your ratio would be 85:1...id turn that sucker up.

using L for measurments makes it easy. 40L tank.

So you want to be using roughly a liter of oil per tank of fuel for a 40:1 ratio, as its a variable pump it will depend on how wide open you rode that day.

In a perfect world you'd like 32:1.

Yeah I went another two turns after that last ride and ratio of 85:1. I am currently at 5 1/2 turns richer, gonna go out n ride some today. Thats crazy at 3 1/2 turns still only at a 85:1 ratio, From the factory that would have meant they had it at ratios like 120:1 + lol. Ive seen old 4 cycle v 8's that burnt more oil than that haha
Thanks again.

 

[seth25]

Turned mine in 3 turns and rode two days this past weekend. Math worked out to 25:1. Sled ran great, no issues. I'll ride it again this weekend and calculate again. Seems like 25:1 is running a little rich, but as I mentioned, sled ran great.

 

[Oregonsledder]

Turned mine in 3 turns and rode two days this past weekend. Math worked out to 25:1. Sled ran great, no issues. I'll ride it again this weekend and calculate again. Seems like 25:1 is running a little rich, but as I mentioned, sled ran great.

This is an on-going but interesting topic. I turned mine out 3 turns and still add 6 ounces per tank fill to the tank. I have never fouled a plug, and my PRO doesn't smoke any more than a couple of PRO's I ride with that have not touched their pump adjustment.

I might not need to add the tank oil, but it gives me a little peace of mind. I guess I worry that the reason Polaris has the pump set where they do is more to satisfy the EPA than to make an engine last. Who knows.

 

[modsledr]

Thanks for the pic, Sledmax!!

I just finished adjusting 2 of these...VERY EASY. It can be accessed from above, just remove the hood. No need to remove the exhaust can.

I used a couple of long 1/4" drive extensions and an 8mm socket to break the jam nut loose (just break it free, don't back it off, as the screw will turn with the nut), then used a long, skinny, electricians style regular screwdriver to turn the adjustment screw in 3 turns. If the nut starts to screw in and tighten, just back off a little and then continue. Took about 5 minutes. Re-tighten the jam nut, and re-install the hood.

So I went and looked at the adjustment screw on my '12 Pro tonight,it does not look all that hard to access without taking anything other then the exhaust can off. It looks like a socket to loosen the nut and a short screw driver to turn the screw would do the trick. I noticed my lock nut is marked with yellow paint, I am guessing this is so they can tell if it has been tampered with for warranty? Would this void the engine warranty if they seen it was no longer lined up?

Here is a pic looking over the exhaust can, you can see the lock nut marked with yellow paint.