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Oil mix is ratio 24 to 1, whats wrong?

I recently bought a 2008 RMK 600 with 1000 miles on it. I've put about 300 miles on it and have been doing the math on oil and gas fill ups and coming up with a ratio of 24 to 1. Obviously this is wrong, but what's causing it. I've read other threads about adjusting the oil pump lever arm, but this seems too far out for that to be the cause Could the pump be bad? Could something be twisted or wrong with the cable ? Any help would be appreciated along with how big a job you think I'll be undertaking.
 
I had the same sled with the opposite problem - not enough oil. Remove the console, seat and airbox. Slide the tank back so you can get a good look at the cable attachment and the arm on the pump. Make sure the pump arm moves up and down smoothly with throttle opening and closing without sticking. Make sure the index marks on the pump arm and housing are at least close at idle and full throttle. If everything appears to be in good order the pumps go full rich when they are bad.
 
They go full rich when they go bad. On my dragon 800 that was 18:1.

I had iridium spark plugs and it ran fine!!!


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I recently bought a 2008 RMK 600 with 1000 miles on it. I've put about 300 miles on it and have been doing the math on oil and gas fill ups and coming up with a ratio of 24 to 1. Obviously this is wrong, but what's causing it. I've read other threads about adjusting the oil pump lever arm, but this seems too far out for that to be the cause Could the pump be bad? Could something be twisted or wrong with the cable ? Any help would be appreciated along with how big a job you think I'll be undertaking.

There's a close-up pic of the oil pump (posted below, engine OUT of sled, cable disconnected) in my TECH TIPS thread under INCREASING YOUR IQ pinned at the top of this section.

Short horizontal line on RED dot on case @ 3:00 position in pic should align with short horizontal dash on pump arm with sled at idle AS A STARTING POINT.

Pump could be bad as others have stated

but, my 2007 D7 was 37:1 from factory

1-1/4 to 1 -1/2 turns on the cable adjuster 10mm nuts changed it to 57:1

so, it could be just 3 turns off????????

OIL PUMP.jpg
 
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There's a close-up pic of the oil pump (posted below, engine OUT of sled, cable disconnected) in my TECH TIPS thread under INCREASING YOUR IQ pinned at the top of this section.

Short horizontal line on RED dot on case @ 3:00 position in pic should align with short horizontal dash on pump arm with sled at idle AS A STARTING POINT.

Pump could be bad as others have stated

but, my 2007 D7 was 37:1 from factory

1-1/4 to 1 -1/2 turns on the cable adjuster 10mm nuts changed it to 57:1

so, it could be just 3 turns off????????

Thanks Kraven
I did read you tech tips a while ago - very helpful!
Is there an easy way to get a look at the alignment mark without a major disassembly? such as with a dental mirror and a flashlight?
 
Is it common for the oil pump to go on a sled with only 1000 miles on it?

NOT common, but anything is possible

I would still lean towards a pump arm stuck wide open (install a return spring to fix this) or cable out of adjustment being the culprit

I wish there was an E-Z way , but seat & tank removal is the best way

Problem is the pump is located so friggin' low in the chassis

You can try the light and mirror trick, FIRST look for the pump arm position to see if its stuck open before anything else

Looking at the pic I posted, normal pump arm position would be at approx 7:00 or so position

If it's stuck, it would be closer to 5:30 or so position
 
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My 2010 Assault burned 1 tank of oil to 1 tank of gas and It did not foul plugs, after several attempts at adjusting the oil pump with no change, I replaced the pump, sled now burns 1/2 tank of oil to 1 tank of gas at the factory setting...I need to go back in to fine tune it. I pulled the old pump apart and found a bur on the pump shaft. Sled had aprox. 1200 miles. And yes the pump shaft/cam goes full open/rich when cable breaks...lots of oil at idle :face-icon-small-hap
I took the motor out to replace it...
 
NOT common, but anything is possible

I would still lean towards a pump arm stuck wide open (install a return spring to fix this) or cable out of adjustment being the culprit

I wish there was an E-Z way , but seat & tank removal is the best way

Problem is the pump is located so friggin' low in the chassis

You can try the light and mirror trick, FIRST look for the pump arm position to see if its stuck open before anything else

Looking at the pic I posted, normal pump arm position would be at approx 7:00 or so position

If it's stuck, it would be closer to 5:30 or so position

Kraven,
I found instructions in the maintenance section of the Polaris manual for adjusting the oil pump arm. Seems like they would have me doing quite a bit of disassembly to inspect and ake an adjustment. Is it possible to just take off the seat and tank as you stated? or was that just for getting a visual on it?
Thanks for any advice!
 
My cable began to fray and made it over inject..
I believe it is easier to unbolt engine and lift it up to gain access than any other... the mirror sucks..
 
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