Nytro ski pressure

[Turblue]

Nytro ski pressure M10

Wondering what I can do with my tnytro and ski pressure. It actually has wore the rear part of the ski/wear rod down in 7 rides on good snow. The sled has a cr m-10 162 with a cr tunnel. It seems to have lots of ski pressure. I've tried loosening the limiter strap and doesn't seem to help. Was thinking the maybe the skid isn't mounted quite right...anyone have measurments that I could check?

 

[TRUEBLUEMAX]

Just loosening the limiters won't help. Try increasing the shock pressure on the front track shock. It helped a lot for me on mine. I don't have the same skid but the concept is still the same.


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[relentless rider]

cr m10

Drill new holes in the rear tunnel drop down brackets to suck the skid up in the tunnel more, drill the new holes as far up on the bracket as you can, thats what we do on are yamahas and helps alot with ski pressure ive got the same setup as you and on dry dirt it turns ez

 

[sledfvr]

Drill new holes in the rear tunnel drop down brackets to suck the skid up in the tunnel more, drill the new holes as far up on the bracket as you can, thats what we do on are yamahas and helps alot with ski pressure ive got the same setup as you and on dry dirt it turns ez

x2. This is part of the big secret in being able to ride yammis in the trees. Drop the rear bumper as low as you can without having the track hit the tunnel. Aftermarket skids almost always have more suspension travel and raise the rear bumper up and put all the weight on the skis.

 

[relentless rider]

cr

My sled is at sledfvr shop, maybe he can get a measurement off of it , if its not parted out yet

 

[Turblue]

I think it's pretty much as far up on the bracket at the back.

 

[relentless rider]

Id move it all the way to were the bend in the bracket starts, check track clearance

 

[Turblue]

Should be lots of room. So more pressure on the front shock and loosen the limiter strap more. Give it a try.

 

[up-high]

The whole point of the m-10 is a smooth ride and lots of ski pressure to keep the front down in steep climbs. Does Chad's skid have the interchangeable transfer blocks like a Racer's Edge skid?

 

[Turblue]

This is chads rails and fast m-10. It's got the rear jack to move the rear shock to put more force on

 

[relentless rider]

The whole point of the m-10 is a smooth ride and lots of ski pressure to keep the front down in steep climbs. Does Chad's skid have the interchangeable transfer blocks like a Racer's Edge skid?

Very true, but if you get that rear moved up in the tunnel more, you get the light front end and still can climb anything with minimum front lift, sucks trying to fight steering all day for a few steep climbs so the skis dont leave the ground lol,

 

[Polarisrocks]

tried to send you am pm relentlessrider, your box is full. I am having troubles with my 174 m10 too. Its also has a lot of ski pressure and ratchets when I'm on the back wheel in a big climb. I got my cr rails from ice age and they are different in a few small ways.. 1/4 inch here and 1/4 narrower center to center.. It also seems to bee very stiff and rough riding because the track is too tight..

Thanks

In my apex a few years ago I had to lower the front arm 3/4 and it made the front end light, almost like I was balancing on beach ball.. tippy on the trail, but sooo fun in the trees.

But this new skid is kicking my a$$

Jim

 

[relentless rider]

tried to send you am pm relentlessrider, your box is full. I am having troubles with my 174 m10 too. Its also has a lot of ski pressure and ratchets when I'm on the back wheel in a big climb. I got my cr rails from ice age and they are different in a few small ways.. 1/4 inch here and 1/4 narrower center to center.. It also seems to bee very stiff and rough riding because the track is too tight..

Thanks

In my apex a few years ago I had to lower the front arm 3/4 and it made the front end light, almost like I was balancing on beach ball.. tippy on the trail, but sooo fun in the trees.

But this new skid is kicking my a$$

Jim

Pm ya back....
loneman you got any ideas ? Same skid as yours

 

[freeflorider]

Great info guys, having the same prob with my timbersled cr tunnel combo. Running gen 2 sims that I feel are to big. Going with a set of Mohawks to see if this helps with the steering.

 

[loneman]

Pm ya back....
loneman you got any ideas ? Same skid as yours

check mounting locations fast m10s are different then cr m10 locatins. You should be abel to sit on the rear bumper and have it drop over 40% of its travel. The track should sit flat on the floor if not you might need to drop the front axle down a bit or raise the rear up in the mount some( lower the bumper). Then use jack or mag blocks when its time to climb. Hope this helps

 

[shaneway59]

tried to send you am pm relentlessrider, your box is full. I am having troubles with my 174 m10 too. Its also has a lot of ski pressure and ratchets when I'm on the back wheel in a big climb. I got my cr rails from ice age and they are different in a few small ways.. 1/4 inch here and 1/4 narrower center to center.. It also seems to bee very stiff and rough riding because the track is too tight..

Thanks

In my apex a few years ago I had to lower the front arm 3/4 and it made the front end light, almost like I was balancing on beach ball.. tippy on the trail, but sooo fun in the trees.

But this new skid is kicking my a$$

Jim

I am thinking about moving the forward mounting holes on my m10 as I would like less ski pressure as well. I don't want to lower the rear of my sled any as it sits low at the back as it is. Cr racing sells adjustable front mounts which I am going to try. Different alternative to adding more preload to front shock I am thinking

 

[n2otoofast4u]

Great info guys, having the same prob with my timbersled cr tunnel combo. Running gen 2 sims that I feel are to big. Going with a set of Mohawks to see if this helps with the steering.

I went from the Gen 2s back to stock apex skis and was THRILLED with the affects, especially in heavier and more setup snow.

 

[Turblue]

I am thinking about moving the forward mounting holes on my m10 as I would like less ski pressure as well. I don't want to lower the rear of my sled any as it sits low at the back as it is. Cr racing sells adjustable front mounts which I am going to try. Different alternative to adding more preload to front shock I am thinking

Anyone have pictures of the cr racing front arm adjusters? Just wondering how they would mount with the side cr brackets .. Guessing you have to cut the section out.

 

[Polarisrocks]

SO guys remember if you move the front you have to move it enough so the holes don't overlap and that's the trouble, its about 3/4 or 7/8's that's needed for to keep the holes strong. Well if you move the front that much your rear wheel and track will be off the ground 1-2 inches. BAD

The Fast bar mounts do alow for 2 places to mount the skid. But the mounts are long and solid 3/4 plate and 10-12 inches long... I had troubles getting the bolts tight enough to trust them and keep them both level to mount them. If they loosen the bolt backs out and eats a hole the size of the bolt head in the tunnel. Lots of red loc tite either way.

So I think you need to pull your limiter stap and see how much its holding down the front arm. Mine was holding it down 1 1/2 inches. So I am in the pursuit of a longer strap and this will keep me level on the ground but lessen the ski pressure..

 

[shaneway59]

Cr racing mounts look pretty neat, if it doesn't work, you can move it back to original position.